C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Engine backfires/wont idle

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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 08:38 PM
  #1  
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Default Engine backfires/wont idle

Now that i've figured out why this car wont start 85' (bad ignition modual) the car backfires wile i have too govern the gas to keep it running. When you bring the rpm's up it will backfire through the intake. When the rev's are down it would backfire through the exhaust. Now when i took everything apart i marked the location of the distributor and the rotor. So the timing should be close. I have no trouble code's. Im getting fuell. There is no vac. leaks. I've checked for shorts in the wiring for the knock sensor and check out that everything was connected good. The ESC, ECM, all sensors, everything on the ignition now is new from rebuild. The engine ran mint up untill acouple days ago. Then it had a mind of its own so i replaced the ecm.
Is there anything that im forgetting? Thank's Mike
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 08:46 PM
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Sounds like you might have some plug wires switched around???
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:06 PM
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No no plugs swiched. I checked that multiple times. And i have a wirloom set that wouldnt alow me to easly swich em.

What has me flustered is why would i back fire through the exhaust And then you would bring the revs up alittle and it would backfire through the intake.
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:15 PM
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my book says to check timing...
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:20 PM
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Thank's that's what my helms sais too. But i did. Maybee im missing something. I"ll start from square one tomarrow buy bringing #1 to tdc and alinging the distributor/rotor acordingly. But i cant see why this could have change cuz i marked the rotor before dissasembly.
Thanks again i just wanted to see if im missing somthing that i may have overlooked.
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:31 PM
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You've got a good plan because what you describe usually means the distributor is off a tooth, especially if you removed it to replace parts. Find TDC for #1 and re-stab it making sure the rotor lines up. A long screwdriver helps get the pump drive right. Then reset timing to specs and your backfire should be gone.
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:38 PM
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Yes wel see tomarow. I didnt compleatly remove the distributor. But i have too turn it to get at the cap retainer srews and i had to remove the rotor to replace the ignition mod.. But somewere in my adventures i could have knocked the distributer out of alingment.
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SunCr
You've got a good plan because what you describe usually means the distributor is off a tooth, especially if you removed it to replace parts. Find TDC for #1 and re-stab it making sure the rotor lines up. A long screwdriver helps get the pump drive right. Then reset timing to specs and your backfire should be gone.

Since its not wires crossed, this would be the next step!!
Good Luck, if it doesn't want to drop all the way just
it with a hammer TOTALLY KIDDING!!!
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Old Oct 28, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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Start over, find TDC on the compression stroke, restab the dist. pointing to #1 wire.. also check and make sure you put the wires on the cap in the right direction of rotation...
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 10:06 AM
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Had the same thing on my 85.....CHECK the pins on your PROM!!! I had one of mine bent! When I straighted it out, and plugged it back in, BINGO!, everything straightened out.......
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 10:40 AM
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Don't forget to unplug the ESC to check initial timing. It might throw a code-so after you shut it down and plug the ESC back in you might have to disconnect the negative on your battery for a few minutes.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:43 AM
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Default I had the same problem!

I had the exact same problem two weeks ago. When I finally got it running it would fire out the intake and the acceleration was very inconsistent and would die when idling.

Turns out that:
a) my fuel filter was so clogged that it could hardly be blown through.

once that was changed it was getting good pressure, but ran really bad and found that:

b)the MAF sensor was throwing bad codes.

I am not sure if the sensor was bad before the fuel filter get clogged. Most likely the tiny wire in the sensor was damaged by the backfires out the intake. Tried a MAF from a new company called microtech that was a piece of crap. Returned it for a cardone rebuilt bosch sensor and now it is fine. I decided not to modify it because I was told by more that one person that the air rectifier in the sensors gives better readings because of the smoother air flow over the wire.
Hope this helps!
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:46 AM
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oh, and my timing was exactly where it needed to be. I also had brand new wires and plugs from the week before. the fuel pressure read ok while at idle (by idle I mean me holding the accelerator enough for it not to die), but when the throttle was opened it would loose pressure. It was the most confusing problem at first...
Fuel filters are like less than $10, give that a try before jumping to expensive options

Last edited by amswak; Oct 29, 2004 at 11:54 AM. Reason: ...
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 12:00 PM
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I agree that if your timing is right, disconnect the MAF. Had the same symptoms when the MAF crapped out with no codes.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 01:34 PM
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that was my timing that was right, redfast is the one who is currently having the problem.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 04:48 PM
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My maf visualy looks good. The wires are intact.
I just got done with redoing the timming. Brought 1# to tdc and marked out the rotor and such so that part is good (was pretty close) now. But im still having the same issuses.
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 05:45 PM
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So i was able to finaly get it to idle long enough do i could jump over to door to put a timming light on it. I had the gun on the balencer and all i could see is the timming mark go around and around and around and so on. This is with the esc connected. WTF?
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:26 PM
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i believe your supposed to disconnect the ESC module when checking timing on an L98.... right?
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Old Oct 29, 2004 | 11:33 PM
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Yes disconnect to check timing.
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