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My stock LT1 dynoed at 285 to the wheels. It had a Corsa exhaust, but I don't think that helped much over stock since the car was a hell of a lot faster with the stock exhaust.
Frank, you LOST power putting the Corsa's on???
Explain, I gots lots of time
I continually finding myself wishing Nathan lived closer!!! It'd be good to find someone near me that knew the LT1 inside and out!!!!!!!
I PUT 1.6:1 RR'S in my lt1 and i didnt need to use the lt4 valve covers , i also didnt change the springs, being that my car does not have high milage and my springs are fine. i didnt use the knock module from the lt4 and my car is not noisy or knocking. i did hear that it would be a good idea to replace the ESC but i havent seen the need for it yet.
I thought the springs needed to be changed to LT4 for better clearance, i.e. less chance of them bottoming out when compressed due to the higher ratio of 1.6?
correct me if im wrong but i think its 95 and up c4s have different valve covers that fit the 1.6 rrs and below that they have to be modified or changed.
your friend
and supporting vendor
Sean
the Coatings man!
I posted a thread on this topics awhile back. I have never dynoed mine but It has done 13.2's and it's stock so my guess is it's on the strong side number wise maybe 270ish HP.
I installed 1.6 RR on my lt1 ,lt4 knock sensor cheap,cut the drip tabs inside my factory valve covers and installed the Ls1 bee hive valve springs from comp cams .
I did not change the valve seals.
Runs fast for me 11.21 121 mph 60' 1.67 in the 1/4 Ha Ha
On a 125 shot of juice!!
Stock exaust with cut outs with spair tire removed. Drag raidals never dynoed it ,no air to the engine so no power,why dyno when it's not for real.
If the dyno can blow 100 mph air to the throttle body then I might dyno it.
On the valve springs it's not a question of mileage, it's a question of coil bind height.
LT1 springs are extremely weak to start with. Installing the 1.6 rockers stresses them even further than they were designed for. You are pushing them so close to coil bind that they simply will not last very long. Furthermore the first time you over-rev your engine and inertia carries that pushrod / lifter / rocker further than it should you just hit coil bind, which means broken parts.
If you value your engine you'll replace the springs when you do the rockers.
From: Stafford, Virginia Kittah, Kittah, Kittah...
Originally Posted by STL94LT1
I've seen a few stock LS1 Vettes dyno, and there were around 300-310 rwhp.
Also, it seems like alot of the F-body guys like to qote STD #'s, not the lower SAE #'s that most of the Vette guys use. If the local F-body guys are dynoing at Stiegemieres, they use STD #'s.
My previous 96 LT1 A4 put down 273 RWHP with cooler fan temps and aftermarket mufflers...
On the same dyno, I've seen a 99 Firehawk put down 310 RWHP...
I haven't taken my LT4 to the dyno yet, but I know it does feel quite a bit stronger than my LT1, especially at the upper end...
Exactly. Most 6-spd LT1's dyno between 265 and 275 rwhp bone stock. Of course there are a few turds and a few monsters out there, but in general 270 RWHP is a very safe bet. .
A stock 270hp to the ground here
my cars not a turd...wooo hoooo
I installed 1.6 RR on my lt1 ,lt4 knock sensor cheap,cut the drip tabs inside my factory valve covers and installed the Ls1 bee hive valve springs from comp cams .
I did not change the valve seals.
Runs fast for me 11.21 121 mph 60' 1.67 in the 1/4 Ha Ha
On a 125 shot of juice!!
Stock exaust with cut outs with spair tire removed. Drag raidals never dynoed it ,no air to the engine so no power,why dyno when it's not for real.
If the dyno can blow 100 mph air to the throttle body then I might dyno it.
Possibly if you had an inlet the size of a tuba bell mounted above the air slip stream of your car you may get a measureable HP gain at 100 mph but probably negated by the extra air drag. But then again, if the air is cooler up there, a 1% gain of HP for every 10 deg F reduction in intake air temp. Have you tried to point the tailpipes up for more traction, then auto angle them strait back again for extra propulsion? Beside the benefit of cooler air, I have never seen any independent test results of any significant HP gains from the ram-air affect. Unless you're afraid of a chassis dyno's numbers, use them. Even Nextel Cup race teams use chassis dynos for testing, without a 200 mph fan. Next to a tuba bell, their cowl induction is excellent for inlet air pressure.
As far as stock Corvette LT1/4s being underrated, I don't think so. We have dynoed many of them and they come in approx where we would expect them to. Like always, we see a few percent spread from car to car. I do believe that the F-bodied LTX/LSS cars are underrated though. I don't have numbers in front of me right now and besides, they are Mustang Dyno numbers which no one likes anyway. EJ
I posted a thread on this topics awhile back. I have never dynoed mine but It has done 13.2's and it's stock so my guess is it's on the strong side number wise maybe 270ish HP.
I agree. Never had a dyno done, but did 13.1 @ 108.3 w/ just muff elims. Drove a Trans Am the next week that was just a dog. (and more then just the weight difference) I think some of it maybe the break in w/ the LT1. Mine was first owned by a little old lady that didn't know the car had second or third gear!
If the Trans Am was an LS1 car it is very possible. It just seems like there is a lot more production variance in them, some are fantastic and others just plain suck.