C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Short Shifter

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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:00 PM
  #1  
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Default Short Shifter

I'm looking for info on a short shifter for a 91 with the ZF Six Speed.
Does anyone know who makes one, and what the approximate cost would be? TIA
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:07 PM
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Short shifters ain't all that great, proper eye/hand/foot coordination is the key.

But to answer your question, I believe you have two choices of which only one I would do.

You have the B&M Ripper shifter which is clunky and stiff, and you have the Hurst Billet Plus which is nice and smooth.

They range anywhere from $125-$200 depending on where you shop.

Some forum vendors have them, you can also get them from Jegs or Summit.

If you didn't notice, I prefer the Hurst and that's my next purchase. I don't need the short throw(the Hurst is only 30% shorter), I need the smoothness. The stock shifter works just great, it's just a little sloppy.

You will get folks here that will tell you the B&M is the best one and that is their opinion. I don;t agree since I have driven vehicles equipped with both and I don't like the B&M at all.

In either case, neither will help you shift quicker, that's just a myth, you need to work on your footwork to get a nice powershift.
No matter how short the throw is on top of the pivot, it still has to move the same amount as stock under the pivot point.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:09 PM
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Hurst and B&M are the most popular. Look around about $120 or so. Installation is tricky. B&M is shorter, but Hurst is smoother while still much shorter than OEM.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:21 PM
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Hurst, Hurst, Hurst!! $107 + $9 shipping, cannot be beat.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:37 PM
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I can't vouch for the B&M, but I can on the Hurst Billet Plus. More positive, short shift, feels MUCH better than stock. Plus you can actually see the face on your stereo. Go to VictorRussel92's link to Ebay vendor - that's what I paid as well, the best deal I've seen
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 12:40 PM
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I got a B&M from a forum member and love it... although it is clunky. You really get an arm workout from shifting her now. You can check E-bay as well. There is a reputable guy that sells the Hurst for $100 everyday. I'll forewarn you... Installation is a bi-atch!!! I won't do it again.
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Old Nov 10, 2004 | 07:12 PM
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Hurst is 30 % shorter, B&M is 40 and White Racing is 45.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 08:56 AM
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I appreciate all the responses. Gives me something to think about

One thing I am DEFINITELY going to do is switch to synthetic oil in the tranny, and rearend. Probably Royal Purple, unless somebody has a better brand in mind. Thanks again!
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by bradvette
I can't vouch for the B&M, but I can on the Hurst Billet Plus. More positive, short shift, feels MUCH better than stock. Plus you can actually see the face on your stereo. Go to VictorRussel92's link to Ebay vendor - that's what I paid as well, the best deal I've seen
with Brad, very solid shifter
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 11:40 AM
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It's a love / hate thing really. You love one, you hate the other. Personally I love the B&M. The "clunk" that everybody talks about refers to the fact that this shifter does away with all the flexible components of the stock setup and shortens the throw dramatically.

Very simple physics tells us that the shorter lever arm means less mechanical advantage, thus it is "harder" to shift than the others. It feels "clunky" because there is nothing to dampen the shifter from the trans. The end result is a very positive engagement. You know if it's in gear or not because it slams home with a very satisfying clank.

Some people will tell you that the shifter effort is excessive with this shifter. Although it is more than with the others, it is hardly excessive. I can hold the car in a straight line with the thumb and index finger of my right hand and effecitvely reach over and shift through 1-4 using just my finger tips.

My experience has been that you fall in love with whichever you drive first. I happened to drive the B&M first and I feel like the Hurst isn't enough different from stock to warrant the effort of installation. Most people who drove the Hurst first feel like the &&M is too clunky.

Drive them both and figure out what you like better.
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Old Nov 11, 2004 | 12:16 PM
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From: St. Peters MO Sometimes you have to prove yourself by doing alot of killing or alot of dying...
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Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
It's a love / hate thing really. You love one, you hate the other. Personally I love the B&M. The "clunk" that everybody talks about refers to the fact that this shifter does away with all the flexible components of the stock setup and shortens the throw dramatically.

Very simple physics tells us that the shorter lever arm means less mechanical advantage, thus it is "harder" to shift than the others. It feels "clunky" because there is nothing to dampen the shifter from the trans. The end result is a very positive engagement. You know if it's in gear or not because it slams home with a very satisfying clank.

Some people will tell you that the shifter effort is excessive with this shifter. Although it is more than with the others, it is hardly excessive. I can hold the car in a straight line with the thumb and index finger of my right hand and effecitvely reach over and shift through 1-4 using just my finger tips.

My experience has been that you fall in love with whichever you drive first. I happened to drive the B&M first and I feel like the Hurst isn't enough different from stock to warrant the effort of installation. Most people who drove the Hurst first feel like the &&M is too clunky.

Drive them both and figure out what you like better.

The only way i could have said it any better is if I copy\pasted it and claimed it as my own.
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Old Nov 12, 2004 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by CMYC4GO
One thing I am DEFINITELY going to do is switch to synthetic oil in the tranny, and rearend. Probably Royal Purple, unless somebody has a better brand in mind.
If you want synthetic for the trans, IMHO, there's only 2 options, Castrol 10W60 from the BMW dealer, or Redline. I use the Castrol 'cause it's approved by ZF. Others use Redline, it's a running dispute around here, along with Dexcool and 160* t-stats

Using non-approved/tested lube in a ZF can cause hard shifting (bad) or worst, require a $2,000 rebuild (really bad). FWIW, Castrol 10W60 synth (from the BMW dealer) and factory fill are the only two available lubes that are factory approved.

The good news is that the ZF6 is bullet-proof, taking care of it by bleeding the clutch's hydralic system and replacing the lube regularly will make it last forever.

Oh yea, Hurst.

Eric
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