Hooking up a/c & alt brackets with headers??
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Dallas TX
Hooking up a/c & alt brackets with headers??
How are you supposed to hook up the brackets that attach the A/C & the alternator to the header bolts on the drdiver's side when you have headers? My shorty headers had a portion that stuck out a bit, but the long tubes are flush and it looks like you have to have a spacer. Anyone know?? Speaking about the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the driver's side.
Drifting
Joined: May 2003
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From: Lakeport CA
Not to hijack but for me another reason why the TPIS long tubes are IMHO better. They use the stock bolts & the stock brackets all got right back where they belong...
So yes, I suspect you will need to make some spacers & user the stock length bolts if your headers have just flat flanges.
So yes, I suspect you will need to make some spacers & user the stock length bolts if your headers have just flat flanges.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by Trog
Not to hijack but for me another reason why the TPIS long tubes are IMHO better. They use the stock bolts & the stock brackets all got right back where they belong...
So yes, I suspect you will need to make some spacers & user the stock length bolts if your headers have just flat flanges.
So yes, I suspect you will need to make some spacers & user the stock length bolts if your headers have just flat flanges.
.Just two places that I'll have to fab something. Would be nice for sure if they would make it in a "made to fit" fashion... but can't beat the price I got these for.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: MO
I actually hooked them back up on the TPIS it was pretty easy. Now however I am running without also without a problem so far. I feel they really aren't needed with the stout factory mount in front. Also makes getting to the plugs a little easier on that side without them.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by 65Z01
I would feel better with those brackets in use.
Maybe you can fab up some spacers that will fit snugly around the stock bolts and get the job done.
Maybe you can fab up some spacers that will fit snugly around the stock bolts and get the job done.
Yeah, that's my plan. I had problems before with my '94. Left the brackets off and got weird vibrations from the engine at 2800 rpm. I guess it's ok to run without them temporarily until i can get the spacers (like over to the exhaust shop maybe)... I won't have my tips or O2 sims ... or mufflers (since know one will tell me what model!!!!!!
) until next week minimum. So can't take it to the shop until then.
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Race Director
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Originally Posted by GlockLT4
$350 for new coated is better .
Just two places that I'll have to fab something. Would be nice for sure if they would make it in a "made to fit" fashion... but can't beat the price I got these for.
.Just two places that I'll have to fab something. Would be nice for sure if they would make it in a "made to fit" fashion... but can't beat the price I got these for.
TPIS headers also tend to have nasty habits of burning plug wires boots because of their design and they have horrible slip fit collectors. "Over priced junk" is what I've heard them called, and not by me. That was directly from the mouth of a TPIS customer who was pissed at his headers. He wasn't really mad until he saw how well my Hooker headers fit, then he was royally P.O'd at the money he had spent to TPIS.Glock,
Your Hooker headers SHOULD have come with about 3 or 4 spacers in the package of bolts. You use two of these. Use one on the passenger side along with one of the stock manifold bolts in order to fasten attach the dipstick where it belongs. Use one of the other spacers on the passenger side to connect 2 out of the 3 A/C / alternator brackets back. Unfortunately you do have to leave out the last bracket, but you'll never notice it. This requires you fabricate on little piece of metal to serve as a washer on the alternator end and you're done.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g..._passenger.jpg
Here you can just barely see the spacer on the passenger side, the ASR is somewhat in the way.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g...der_driver.jpg
Last edited by Nathan Plemons; Nov 12, 2004 at 07:08 AM.
Thread Starter
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by olman
Cut the spacers off the old manifolds and use the original bolts, or, I got some 3/8 stainless tubing and cut it for spacers.
3/8inch tubing for spacers that you have to torque bolts down against pretty hard???? I'm thinking grade 8 something, not just tubing
.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
TPIS headers also tend to have nasty habits of burning plug wires boots because of their design and they have horrible slip fit collectors. "Over priced junk" is what I've heard them called, and not by me. That was directly from the mouth of a TPIS customer who was pissed at his headers. He wasn't really mad until he saw how well my Hooker headers fit, then he was royally P.O'd at the money he had spent to TPIS.Glock,
Your Hooker headers SHOULD have come with about 3 or 4 spacers in the package of bolts. You use two of these. Use one on the passenger side along with one of the stock manifold bolts in order to fasten attach the dipstick where it belongs. Use one of the other spacers on the passenger side to connect 2 out of the 3 A/C / alternator brackets back. Unfortunately you do have to leave out the last bracket, but you'll never notice it. This requires you fabricate on little piece of metal to serve as a washer on the alternator end and you're done.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g..._passenger.jpg
Here you can just barely see the spacer on the passenger side, the ASR is somewhat in the way.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g...der_driver.jpg
Sweet, thanks for the pics!! No, the headers didn't come with the spacers for some reason. Not sure why. I'll call hooker and have them send some. The last time i put on my shorties hooker sent a full bolt set with headgaskets for FREE! And i bought the shorties USED. Great company
!!! 
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St. Jude Donor '03
Yeah you need to use a spacer from Home Depot and grind down the brackets with a bench grinder. After that use a old manifold bolt of buy you a new grade 8 bolt from HD. Works like a charm.
Yes, you will definitly get a vibration especially with the AC on without these brackets.
Yes, you will definitly get a vibration especially with the AC on without these brackets.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2003
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From: San Jose Pat Tillman - American Hero
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
TPIS headers also tend to have nasty habits of burning plug wires boots because of their design and they have horrible slip fit collectors. "Over priced junk" is what I've heard them called, and not by me. That was directly from the mouth of a TPIS customer who was pissed at his headers. He wasn't really mad until he saw how well my Hooker headers fit, then he was royally P.O'd at the money he had spent to TPIS.Glock,
Your Hooker headers SHOULD have come with about 3 or 4 spacers in the package of bolts. You use two of these. Use one on the passenger side along with one of the stock manifold bolts in order to fasten attach the dipstick where it belongs. Use one of the other spacers on the passenger side to connect 2 out of the 3 A/C / alternator brackets back. Unfortunately you do have to leave out the last bracket, but you'll never notice it. This requires you fabricate on little piece of metal to serve as a washer on the alternator end and you're done.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g..._passenger.jpg
Here you can just barely see the spacer on the passenger side, the ASR is somewhat in the way.
http://www.wku.edu/~nathan.plemons/g...der_driver.jpg
Could you please take a couple close-up pics of your brackets and the location where they're attached (spacers, etc.). I have the EM LT headers, and IIRC, the shop only reattached 1 of the 2 brackets. Above, you mention something about 2 of the *3* brackets...see where I'm going with this? As mentioned in other posts in this thread, I get a WICKED vibration with the A/C on around 2800 RPM, and it's got to be from the (lack of) bracket. What do I need to do to fix this?
If you don't mind, pics would be great - you can email me at "heartlung@comcast.net". Thanks SO much.
Aaron
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by VictorRussell'92
Yeah you need to use a spacer from Home Depot and grind down the brackets with a bench grinder. After that use a old manifold bolt of buy you a new grade 8 bolt from HD. Works like a charm.
Yes, you will definitly get a vibration especially with the AC on without these brackets.
Yes, you will definitly get a vibration especially with the AC on without these brackets.
Race Director
Joined: May 2001
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Originally Posted by Perfusion
Nathan,
Could you please take a couple close-up pics of your brackets and the location where they're attached (spacers, etc.). I have the EM LT headers, and IIRC, the shop only reattached 1 of the 2 brackets. Above, you mention something about 2 of the *3* brackets...see where I'm going with this? As mentioned in other posts in this thread, I get a WICKED vibration with the A/C on around 2800 RPM, and it's got to be from the (lack of) bracket. What do I need to do to fix this?
If you don't mind, pics would be great - you can email me at "heartlung@comcast.net". Thanks SO much.
Aaron
Could you please take a couple close-up pics of your brackets and the location where they're attached (spacers, etc.). I have the EM LT headers, and IIRC, the shop only reattached 1 of the 2 brackets. Above, you mention something about 2 of the *3* brackets...see where I'm going with this? As mentioned in other posts in this thread, I get a WICKED vibration with the A/C on around 2800 RPM, and it's got to be from the (lack of) bracket. What do I need to do to fix this?
If you don't mind, pics would be great - you can email me at "heartlung@comcast.net". Thanks SO much.
Aaron
I'll try to take some pictures when I get home. E-mail me and remind me around in about 4 hours.
Glock,
What brackets did you have to modify? Using the provided spacers I can use the stock brackets un-modified. I can't use the third one simply because there is absolutely no way to get the bolt in, the header primary is in the way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,670
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From: Severna Park MD
Originally Posted by James94LT1
I actually hooked them back up on the TPIS it was pretty easy. Now however I am running without also without a problem so far. I feel they really aren't needed with the stout factory mount in front. Also makes getting to the plugs a little easier on that side without them.
On my car they are needed. I get a vibration at low revs without the braces.
Now I get a vibration at 2000-2300 with the A/C running. I have the braces and all bolts, but since installing the headers the bolt that goes into the back of the alternater won't take any torque. I have a replacement alternator sitting in my garage waiting for me to get to it.
It only vibrates under light load but it's right in my cruising range.
Maybe my problem is I also have the tall polished aluminum valve covers. I'm probably getting vibration transmitted through contact between the top brace and the valve cover.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
I'll try to take some pictures when I get home. E-mail me and remind me around in about 4 hours.
Glock,
What brackets did you have to modify? Using the provided spacers I can use the stock brackets un-modified. I can't use the third one simply because there is absolutely no way to get the bolt in, the header primary is in the way.
Glock,
What brackets did you have to modify? Using the provided spacers I can use the stock brackets un-modified. I can't use the third one simply because there is absolutely no way to get the bolt in, the header primary is in the way.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Dallas TX
Originally Posted by James94LT1
Huh, I don't have any of these vibration issues. But then again I never run A/C. I'll pay closer attention and put them back on if I need to.