Nathan Plemons

I'm looking at possibly ordering poly bushings for my car. I figure it would be a nice project while I've got 2 weeks off for Christmas break.

I'm looking at the Engery Suspension Hyperflex Master Kit for 1984-1995 Corvettes. Has anybody used this kit and if so did it include everything you needed? Are there any extra bushing that are not included in this kit that I should get while I'm at it?

Teenangel

No, But I am doing the same thing. This is my winter project. I'am going to replace all of my bushings and polish all my suspension parts. You do need a bearing press.

mash557

You need to check and make sure that sway bar bushing are included. Most of the kits I saw excluded them due to the different size bars that were available. I have installed poly on the back of my 86 and it wasn't too bad. The bat wing mounts were the worst and they were only mildly annoying. I have to get the front set and install them yet and am not looking forward to the upper control arm busings. Good Luck

ShawnZR-1

The Energy Suspension kit does NOT contain sway bar bushings. You will have to measure and order those seperately.

purplemajesty

I did the energy suspension kit and it does not include sway bar bushings or engine/transmission mounts. I did the entire job in my garage without a press but it was a PITA. I had to come up with some creative uses for my socket set and a C-clamp. One tip is to drill the bushings first so they will be a little more willing to come out. Also, you will have to brace your upper control arms to keep it from collapsing together if you do put it in a press. If you know someone that has a service manual up through '82, the procedure is the same even though the control arms are different. As for the batwing, the factory installed sleeves that will need to come out in order for the poly bushings to fit. I sawed a groove in them with a hacksaw assembled through the hole, then tapped it out. And make sure to put a long piece of tape across the front nuts on the dog bones. There are holes in the frame right behind them that act similar to a black holes when anything gets near them! Found that one out the hard way. Feel free to e-mail with any questions.

Good Luck

I almost forgot to mention that in order to get the rear bolt out of the lower control arm, you will have to remove the cross member that the engine mounts to. Its really not that hard, just loosen up the motor mount and jack up the engine a bit. then remove two bolts on either end.

VR'92

When I do mine I'm gonna just go down to Harbor Frieght tools and get a press. I think they got em ther for like $89 bucks.

93 ragtop

Go to their web page and it has a break down of what is in the kit, The swaybars are seperate and mabie a few others. I have installed the front swaybar so far. The rest set in the box.

purplemajesty

After having done it, I realize that would have been a very wise investments .

John Row

You won't believe the difference in handling! Bring on those Z06s.

2manyfuncars

I found the front sway bar link bushings to be sloppy on the bolts. I used larger bolts and redrilled the bracket to fit the new bolts. Otherwise you may find a little bit of slop on the race track or autocrossing. Besides that they help a great deal. If you are replacing front control arm bushings too, I'd look at the global west bushings (especially if you race it). They are amazing.

Good luck

Raistlin

I drilled the old bushings and used a 6" 2 prong puller.

Get the kit in black, they are graphite impregnated to (supposedly) cut down on squeaking.

I used a bunch of synthetic marine grease I bought separately.

Great tip on covering the holes in the frame when taking out the rear trailing arms! You don't want to lose a nut in there

Ride and handling improved greatly, and you might want to think about lowering the car while you have everything torn apart.

Oh, there are no tq specs on reassembling the front A arms.

Nathan Plemons

Lowering the car is absolutely out of the question. It doesn't significanty improve handling and speed bumps are enough of a problem as it is. I guess I'm the only person in the world who thinks that stock ride height and stock wheels look good on 99% of the vehicles out there.

pablocruise

The supplied lubricant is evil
and not enough of it either. Have some marine grease standing by.
Have a look at your dogbones' bolts.
Some vettes have 2 different bolt sizes on each dogbone. The kit might not have the correct size metal sleeves. I dealt with their customer service rep....I think it's Cory(?)...and he was awesome at sending me the correct sleeves no charge next day air no charge
That was a year or two ago and maybe they have included both sizes by now, but have a gander beforehand.

They poly might even raise the ride height a little. Measure your 4 corners height before just out of curiousity.
You will love the new feel.

Oh yeah, I did lose one of the dogbone nuts down that evil frame hole. Tape it off or stuff a rag in there. It was a nightmare getting it out.

Midnight 85

I almost forgot to mention that in order to get the rear bolt out of the lower control arm, you will have to remove the cross member that the engine mounts to. Its really not that hard, just loosen up the motor mount and jack up the engine a bit. then remove two bolts on either end.[/QUOTE]

I don't understand why you had to do this, I did mine and had no such problem??? Mine's an '85. The ride when you're done is a treat.

JB666

I ordered the Energy Suspension kit for my '95 about a month ago. It's sitting in my gararge, next to the sway bar bushings. I figure once winter kicks in for good, I'll be out there.. Until then, there's still hope!!!!

Plus, since we just did the tie rod(s), I figure it's a good time since my alignment's probably fubar by now.

ClarenceT

Nope. I love my sawblades, and wouldn't lower it an inch. I'm glad that people arn't afraid to mod them (unlike, let's say some new 911 Turbo owner, but I like mine as is)