C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Engine Install Pics inside (dial-ups beware)

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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 12:37 PM
  #21  
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How long did it take you to pull it?
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Old Dec 3, 2004 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ztrips
How long did it take you to pull it?
About 7 or 8 hours. I did that by myself. It's pretty easy, just takes forever to label stuff. That includes removing the exhaust and the transmission.
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007

Short block assembled
Is this just an optical illusion? Aren't the reliefs for the valves supposed to be at the bottom where the valves are?
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Old Dec 5, 2004 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Insane1
Is this just an optical illusion? Aren't the reliefs for the valves supposed to be at the bottom where the valves are?

The pistons are corect, here is a shot of my 383 bottom end

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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 08:26 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Insane1
Is this just an optical illusion? Aren't the reliefs for the valves supposed to be at the bottom where the valves are?
The pistons are correct. Think of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head. The "bottom" part of the combustion chamber (where the spark plug is) is the furthest distance from the pistons. With the cylinder heads on the engine, as you move closer towards the centerline of the engine (i.e. towards the lifter valley) the combustion chamber has less volume such that the distance between the chamber and the piston decreases. Because of the angle the valves get closer to the piston.

The below pic should clarify:


Last edited by 96GS#007; Dec 6, 2004 at 12:18 PM. Reason: Added pic
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 09:55 AM
  #26  
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Ahh, you're spoiled Jim... look at all the room!
My garage takes real maneuvering This is from the original pull a few years ago.



And a few steps back...




Also, I hate to miss a dyno appearance armed with new stuff so you may have pushed up the time frame on my heads/cam update
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 10:08 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
The real key is marking everything during the removal phase. I also took a bunch of digital pics in case of memory failure (mine).
Very true, a box of Zip Lock bags and a Sharpie is what I used.

Looking good !
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 10:15 AM
  #28  
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Does it matter which side you pull it from? Is there more interference on one side opposed to the other?
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:04 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jerkyboy
Does it matter which side you pull it from? Is there more interference on one side opposed to the other?

Doesn't matter.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 12:53 PM
  #30  
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Did you re-use the stock cast crank? Have any machine work done to it (polishing, balancing, etc.)?
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 12:59 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by HammerDown
Did you re-use the stock cast crank? Have any machine work done to it (polishing, balancing, etc.)?
It's a stock LT4 crank. The journals were polished.

The rotating assembly was balanced. Due to the lighter components, the shop took a little weight out of the crank.
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Old Dec 6, 2004 | 11:32 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by 96GS#007
The pistons are correct. Think of the combustion chamber in the cylinder head. The "bottom" part of the combustion chamber (where the spark plug is) is the furthest distance from the pistons. With the cylinder heads on the engine, as you move closer towards the centerline of the engine (i.e. towards the lifter valley) the combustion chamber has less volume such that the distance between the chamber and the piston decreases. Because of the angle the valves get closer to the piston.

The below pic should clarify:

Yep. Now that I take a closer look I see what was strange looking to me. I am used to using stock pistons in the race car that has clearnce for the valves on the top and bottom side of the pistons so that they can be installed either way.
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