In addition to the cam swap threads, there always seems to be much discussion on how to pull/install an engine in a C4. Here's my approach:





The Saturday prior...

 

Nice!

Who makes that puller adapter? Does that use the fuel rail bolts?

 

Hey where are those bolts going into off of the plate holding up the motor. It looks like the fuel rail bolts?

 

Ahhh the good 'ole Happy Hooker from TPiS! That thing is invaluable isn't it? That's the same way I R&R'd my engine too.

I had problems getting the motor back in with the Mez mounted so I had to pull that off and install it after the fact.

You should elaborate on what you did to the engine (unless I missed it in a different thread).

 

I was wondering the same thing

 

They are the fuel rail bolts - they attach at all four corners.

 

Yep, it's the Happy Hooker from TPIS. Works quite well as you mentioned.

I too left the Mez off and installed it afterwards. The extra few inches with it in place make it difficult to manuever the engine around the engine bay as it's being lowered in place.

The engine munched a main bearing at Heartland Park (road racing). What started as a quick and basic rebuild turned into a bit more (when don't they? ). I went .020 over (due to scratches in the bore from the bearing material), then added SRP pistons and SCAT forged h-beam connecting rods with full floating pins. Of course when the camshaft (HOT Cam) is staring me in the face daring to me to change it, how could I resist?...So in went a GM 846 cam. The heads were ported previously. I examined the possibility of a stroker, but too many leaves have fallen off the money tree this year.

I'm hoping to see 375-380 to the rear wheels with this setup. With the HOT Cam and stock rotating assembly I was at 363. 380 is likely a bit of a stretch but 375 should be obtainable. I'll probably get it on the dyno in the Feb/March timeframe so I can tune WOT. I'm actually running my HOT Cam tune right now. My idle and part throttle data looks great and driveability is excellent (no cam surge, etc) so I'm going to leave well enough alone.

 

Yes, the bolts go where the fuel rail bolts go. I use a new set of metric 10.9 bolts anytime I do this. I think the OEM fuel rail bolts are metric 8.

 

Here's one of the piston and rod assemblies:



Lower end (you can also see the pickup for the Canton oil pan):



Short block assembled

 

I have heard some good things about the 846 cam but you may get held back a little with the shorties. So the fuel rail bolts are strong enough to lift the motor, who would have thunk it, love that lift plate though.


This is another of my old motor going in shot with the bell housing on (No need to pull the trany unless you are just board)

 

beautiful you gonna paint the engine?

 

sweet!

 

Is the plate part of the "happy hooker"? If not, where did you get it? I have a miniram and would like to pull it that way if possible. Also, how do you pull the engine forward enough to pull it away from the tranny? I am trying to get all my thoughts straight before I get into this. Thanks

 

Yes, the entire black piece (plate and hook) that you see on the top of the engine is what comprises the "Happy Hooker". It's available off the TPIS website for ~$45. As an aside, the plate is drilled to work on traditional 4 barrel carb intakes as well.

I dropped the transmission out of mine. If you elect to leave it in place, I think once you start the engine out it's just a matter of going slow and moving it around while it dangles from the hoist. Hopefully FD2BLK will chime in

If you do elect to leave the transmission in place, be sure to support it. Also make sure to remove the ground wires that attach to the bottom left bellhousing bolt/stud (I'm assuming years other than '96 have these ground wires).

 

Yes it is just a mater of moving forward a bit then up, and the trany definatly needs to be suported. One thing I do is pull the motor mounts and ballancer out to create a little more clearance. Oh yes the dreaded grounds. What GM slide rule geek decided that they would stick the grounds in a place that only a umpa loompa could get to once the exhaust is installed I just had a problem with my speedo due to the ground not being tight (My own fault) and it was a huge PITA to tighten.

 

Wow. You did that with the hood ON?? How long did it take? I'm looking at doing this next week, but I'm going 396 with a blower...

 

Hmmm Jim, I just can't envision how to R&R the engine. Maybe when it comes time to pull my engine you can drop by and show me.

 

Good thread. Thanks for the pics and info.

 

My pics aren't quite as clear, but you get the idea...

 

Yep, hood on. The engine fits right over the side.

Discounting the stops for lunch, dinner, and a dash to the autoparts store for a replacment hose clamp, it was about ~10 hours from the time I started the install until I turned the key and fired it up.

I had a friend helping for some of it. However, we spent a lot of time bs'ing versus working so the 10 is still pretty accurate even if working alone.

The real key is marking everything during the removal phase. I also took a bunch of digital pics in case of memory failure (mine).