Sport seat issues





I am having the car's seats redone next week and I know there are several things wrong somewhere. None of the switches on my bolster work, actually some are broken, so those two going to be replaced...but I dont know whether the subassembly or bladder is broken in addition....and these suckers are kinda expensive even after looking around to Contemporary C. or TLD....and also I would like to have the parts come in fairly quickly so they can get to work on the drivers side ASAP. (passenger's will be done while i'm waiting for parts)
So is there a way to tell exactly what needs replacing before going in?
TIA
Then you can see if the pump motor is running and feel if it's pumping air.
If not running you can jumper power at the switch to see if the switch or the pump is the problem.
If running but not pumping, repair the pump diaphrams asap; then you can see if the bladders will pump up and hold.
If not you can have them installed when the seats are apart for the upholstry or you can cut the hog rings and install the bladders before handing off the seats.
There is really no easy way to to diagnose the problem until you get in there and take it one step at a time.
And remember that the bladder will likely last 5-10yrs or more so the cost is really not bad.
It would be a good idea to bring in new switches before doing the upholstry.
BTW, what is CC asking for those bladders these days??
You just need to release that clip to free the seat cushion.
an easy task on my C4?!surely... a sign of the apocalypse
I am in the middle of a seat rebuild on my 86 Z51 coupe with sport seats. I have completed the driver's side including new lumbar pump and bladder. Mine were completely unrepairable. After 19 years, the bladders were totally crumbled to the point that at first I didn't recognize them for what they were. Also, my pump had a cracked housing that was crushed by the huge butt of the guy I bought the car from.
Once you remove the seat bottom, you can diagnose the lumbar electrically and pneumatically. To check the bladders, unplug the fill tubes and blow air into each chamber via mouth and see if they each hold air. The pump is easy to take out and check for operation. If it runs, but wont pump, The diaphram is broken. You can easily disassemble the pump and makle a new bladder out of any similar rubber item like a kitchen glove or bycycle inner tube. That's probably the easiest repair of the whole job.
My bolster switches didn't work so I removed them and was able to carefully take them apart and clean the contacts. That was the only thing wrong with them. Once removed, you can carefully pry up the retaining tabs on the backs of the switches to gain access. Be very careful not to lose the little spring and post that sticks up under the toggle. A little contact cleaner and crocus cloth and the contacts will be good as new. reassemble and test.
As to the rest of the recover job: I replaced both the foam and covers. If I had it to do over again , I would get the type with the cover on the foam ,as it is one of the most difficult things I have ever attempted to get those things just right, especially the seat back bolsters. Also getting the seat back clipped back into the seat back frame is a bear. BTW, I bought hog ring pliars and rings from a local hardware store which were far superior to the ones in my kit. The hog rings were super sharp which made it much easier to penetrate the leather when crimping .
I am taking a long pause before tackling the passenger side. Good Luck!!





