Head Bolts torque sequence etc.
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Pro
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From: Homestead Florida
Head Bolts torque sequence etc.
Can anyone tell me the head bolt torquing sequence for my 96. I assume it's the same for all years. Also, I read that I should have used oil on the bolts before putting them in....they are new and have the antiseize sealant on them already. The bolts are still loose enough that I didnt compress the gaskets, but should i remove them and add oil to the threads before torqueing them?
thanks.
sam
thanks.
sam
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From: The Top of Utah
For head bolts that extend into the water jacket, I use Permatex No.2 gasket sealer. From your description of the situaion, it isn't too late to pull them back out. I don't have a torque sequence chart for an LT engine. In's in you Factory Service Manual. Generally, it starts in the center of the head and works in increasing larger circles, until all are tightened.
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Even if someone erred and torqued them w/o the sealer, they could still be removed one at a time in sequence, sealed and then retorqued.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by torchred96
Can anyone tell me the head bolt torquing sequence for my 96. I assume it's the same for all years. Also, I read that I should have used oil on the bolts before putting them in....they are new and have the antiseize sealant on them already. The bolts are still loose enough that I didnt compress the gaskets, but should i remove them and add oil to the threads before torqueing them?
thanks.
sam
thanks.
sam
Keep in mind that if you bought new OEM head bolts, they're torque to yield which means you need an angle meter on your wrench. OEM head bolts should NOT be reused although people have. If you do reuse them, you risk stretching them beyond their yield point resulting in bolt failure.
Basically you need to put sealer on the treads (which it sounds like you've done) and then oil under the bolt heads. However, if you're using ARP bolts, they recommend using their assembly lube. It's slicker than conventional oil and therefore has a different torque value. ARP also recommends torqueing, loosening, and retorqueing their head bolts three times if brand new. Some people retorque all their head bolts after firing the engine for the first time. I've never done that and on the 4 or 5 head bolts I can access easily, they've always been tight when checked.
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Pro
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Homestead Florida
Okay guys, I am sorry, I messed up. I bought felpro head bolts (just because that's what the machine shop sold) , and it says right in the package that sealant is applied to the threads and underside of the bolts and no additional sealant/oil is required. So I guess I will be just torquing them down now.
It says "consult latest oem torque specifications" which I guess means I need an angle meter...Well, I ain't going there.... and so, I guess I am already going to be doing a hafffasss job.
So, cfi-efi, I guess I will be starting in the center, working my way in circles out to the ends, and pray a lot tonight that the sealing gods grant my request for a good seal.
Thank all of you for you help! This is a great forum...I wish the search engine worked better though!
It says "consult latest oem torque specifications" which I guess means I need an angle meter...Well, I ain't going there.... and so, I guess I am already going to be doing a hafffasss job.
So, cfi-efi, I guess I will be starting in the center, working my way in circles out to the ends, and pray a lot tonight that the sealing gods grant my request for a good seal.
Thank all of you for you help! This is a great forum...I wish the search engine worked better though!
Large Impressive Member
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
You don't need an angle meter. Put a paint line on the bolts and if the number is 60 degrees, go a sixth of a turn, or one flat, if it's 90 degrees, go a 1/4 turn, etc. Some of the engines I work on use this method and have CRs of 18 to 21:1 and I've never owned an angle meter but have never had a problem. Nothing wrong with angle meters but not necessary if done right. Do those CRs blow your mind? Don't be thinking I've lost mine, they are diesels.
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by torchred96
So, cfi-efi, I guess I will be starting in the center, working my way in circles out to the ends, and pray a lot tonight that the sealing gods grant my request for a good seal.
Thank all of you for you help! This is a great forum...I wish the search engine worked better though!
Thank all of you for you help! This is a great forum...I wish the search engine worked better though!
Why risk it?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2001
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From: Homestead Florida
thanks again for the tips. I like that idea about the paint. I swore I would never buy one of those haynes manuals again and figured that the answers to my question would be readily available here on the forum...especially the way some of these guys tear apart these motors.
I'll bite the bullet, but I hate paying for inferior products which is what those manuals are. It just supports reasons to continue poor quality.
thanks again.
sam
I'll bite the bullet, but I hate paying for inferior products which is what those manuals are. It just supports reasons to continue poor quality.
thanks again.
sam
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From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by torchred96
I swore I would never buy one of those haynes manuals again
thanks again.
sam
thanks again.
sam
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