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I am planing on building 406 its been a long planing process. Here is the list of part on my list to get is there anything I need to add or change, this is my first time building an engine but will have help from someone with expierence.
400 SBC engine Block
Dart Pro 1 215cc-64cc-2.08/1.60 PN-1151143 heads
Scat 9000 series crank 3.75in/5.7in
Scat 4340 I-beam pro series 5.7x2.1 7/16 Bushed
Comp Cams Xtream energy Mech. Roller cam
SRP 4.155 -16cc inverted dome pistons
Total Seal Gapless TSS Street Set rings
Cloyes True Roller Timing Chain
Comp Cams Mech.Roller lifters
Comp. Pro Magnum 1:6 rockers
Comp. cams pushrods
Hooker Super comp. Headers
ATI dampener
Rod Bearings
Cam Bearings
Main Bearings
Freeze Plugs
Head gaskets
Intake gaskets
Oil Pan gaskets
SuperRam and TB gaskets
Misc. gaskets
I have heard other people have had problems with these. I ran Childs&Alberts Zgaples rings which have a regular moly top ring and a gapless 2nd ring. You will also need water pump, radiator, flywheel, radiator hoses, thermostat, roller cam button(I would suggest Cloyes 2 peice billet timing chain cover with an adjustible cam button built in), new arp head bolts, I would suggest splayed main caps with arp studs(requires block to be aligned bored with new main caps), Melling blue printed high pressure oil pump(High volume is not needed), Arp balancer bolt, new engine mounts...and other stuff...
Chris.......not always true. My cam is on a 1.10 base circle and i only had .010 clearence using Lunati sportsman rods. It was either grind the rods or get a smaller base circle cam.
ATI balancer or fluidampner, I would not skimp on a dampner...I have brodix track1 heads and had no clearence problems with Hooker 2151's
I see ATI's graph is a red x. In thier own comparison testing, the ATI was worse than competitors up to ~6K RPM. Good for NASCAR, but there are better dampers out there for a more normal operating range. Chris mentions Fluidampner here, they were on that ATI graph as being more effective in the RPM range of a SR motor.
I'm completing my 400 build-up, very similiar. I have Dart Pro 1's that started out as 200cc and now are 225cc with 296 cfm@.600". I would prefer a smaller runner but my low lift #'s aren't bad 240cfm@.400".and I have a solid roller with 250+@.050. Anyway I haven't tried the headers yet but I have angleplug head and my headers are Hooker 1 3/4 longtubes no A.I.R. PIPES. not sure what the part # is but I hope they fit. I have a Eagle stroker rod and I went to a small base circle, some grinding was required with a stock 400 block. Good Luck!
Last edited by JUAN J SANCHEZ; Dec 6, 2004 at 09:00 PM.
Lingenfelter once said it wasn't the HP or Torque that mattered so much on the crank, but the RPMs. He was using normally asperated engines in his discussion, not blown or nitrous. So chill on those applications, but he was specific, that they SHOULDN't be used regularly over 7000 rpm. So I've always used that as a reference. He seemed to know what he was talking about.
I'd go with a 4340 crank and H beam rods.
Some may say they aren't necessary but that's what I would do.
You can get Eagle from dynoflow in Vegas for $500 for the crank
Next time around I'm going to spend on the Crank for real made in USA, Hank the Crank, 42# $1200
Eagle and Scat are still Chinese even thought they say USA on the box.