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I've been slowly going through my C4 since I purchased it several months ago.
Recently I felt that I had been "through" everything when I remembered my clutch fluid. After removing the PCM and taking off the cap and rubber shield, I was surprised to see only a drop or two sitting in the bottom of the reservoir. I suppose this may have been the cause for my "odd" shifting.
So then I sucked the little bit of fluid out, wiped out the bottom (which was black and dirty) and added some Valvoline Synpower DOT3.
I performed the recommended, "push clutch pedal in slowly, many times" procedure. Today I went back out to check the fluid and while it hadn't lost any, it had turned cloudy and dark.
I sucked it out again and added fresh.
I guess my question is, should I look into doing something else, or just keep sucking/refilling/bleeding until it looks better?
The car shifts fine now, but I wonder how much damage the synchros took...
Also...without the rubber shield in, I fill the fluid up to the "Add" mark, then put the shield in. Once the rubber is in, it appears to bring it up to the "Full" mark. When I screw the cap down it puts the level a bit high. Is that pretty much the standard method of filling, or is that too much? I don't want to blow out a seal or something.
Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated.
should I look into doing something else, or just keep sucking/refilling/bleeding until it looks better?
when it happened to me i just kept sucking out the cloudy fluid and replacing with new every week about three times. it cleared things up considerably, but it still is never crystal clear. i know i have a slow master cyl leak so i can explain why this happens.
The car shifts fine now, but I wonder how much damage the synchros took...
i drove daily for probably about a week on an empty clutch reservoir. although a tranny oil change helped, i'm sure i did some damage to the third gear synchro as the 2-3 shifts will not pop in about 1 out of 20 shifts. zfdoc.com mentioned that third gear is usually the first to go due to extended periods of a bad clutch.
your comment on the fluid level is normal. i fill it about a 1/4" below the FULL mark and put the rubber in. i try not to have any air in there.
I just changed about everything else, including the Castrol TWS 10-60 in the ZF, so hopefully I didn't hurt it too much. I plan on changing the ZF Lube again in 10-12k, so maybe I can flush any extra brass from the wear out then.
Then again, who knows how long the previous owner drove it in that condition. It runs and shifts...I suppose I should be happy.
Thanks for the reminder, I need to check mine. The last time I was working around the battery on Brian's car I noticed that the fluid leve was significantly lower than the "full" mark. I promptly forgot about it for his case but it made me think about my car, it's been forever since I checked it.
The "rubber sheild" needs pushed back up into the lid. It should fit flush within the cap, and not effect the fluid level at all. This will allow you to fill the resevoir to the proper level.
From: Why are there squished peanut butter cups in my underware?
Originally Posted by 91z07
The "rubber sheild" needs pushed back up into the lid. It should fit flush within the cap, and not effect the fluid level at all. This will allow you to fill the resevoir to the proper level.
Thats for the brake fluid reservoir cap, not the clutch fluid cap.
From: Why are there squished peanut butter cups in my underware?
We're talking about the boot/seal for the clutch fluid reservoir. It does not push up into the cap (like a brake fluid reservoir does). And it will affect the clutch fluid level.
Yes duke. The boot should be extended just like you show. The fluid level with the cap off should be at or near the "full" line. With the cap and boot installed the fluid level will raise slightly and keep any additional air out of the system.