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I guess I"ll need to remove the three 56mm nuts. I think Harbor Freight has the sockets on sale for $2.99. But first I've got to pull the motor and trans just to get to it.
Hydrosolator has been successfully replaced...Thanks All
I want to thank all of the forum members for making this possible. Without you I could have never done it. You guys are the greatest. I summed up all the steps below for future reference. I still think we need a sticky.
1. Go to the muffler bearing and kanutten valve section of the Helms manual for detailed instructions and torque values.
2. Rent or Buy a Sky Hook from Pep Boys, Kragen or whoever rents tools.
3. If you're not qualifed to work on this, ask Miss Santa for help.
4. Otherwise, locate the Blinker Fluid Resivoir (if you're looking for a reservoir, you'll never find it). Also, if you can't find the muffler bearing and kanutten valve section of the Helms manual look after the section on piston return springs. You may have an old edition.
5. Remove the phoznosticator's wobbly shaft from the rack and pinion rear end. It's next to the dickfor. Be careful not to spill your blinker fluid.
6. Take the left handed Johnson spanner and your roll of GM approved duct tape and remove the motor and transmission. Sky Hook comes in handy here.
7. If you don't know what a dickfor is then you have no business working on your car.
8. Don't remove the !@#$%96^&* Johnson wire or you will be one unfortunate MFer.
9. Forget doing a search, there isn't one. And neither is a sticky.
10. It could be something simple...like a loose nut behind the wheel. Forget the mirror, I already checked it out. You'll only break it.
11. If you think you're nuts now. Wait til you're finished.
12 If you're lucky, you own an '83 and you'll only have to dismantle the turbo controllers in the fuel pump. Any other year continue with these steps.
13. If you need some help, go ask a Ricer now. They all have 'em, chrome plated with neon.
14. At this point you might be getting a little frustrated. The gnome in the passenger side rear compartment is an excellent resource. Go ask.
15. Your friends and neighbors may start laughing at you. Tell them to go away, you've got important s#!t to do.
16. If the gnome isn't in the rear comprtment, look under the back seat. He can't go far.
17. Oh, I forgot. You should check the glow plugs. Might just be a bogus shot, but you never know.
18. You should be able to see it right next to the brake pad grease reservoir. It's a difficult installation because it is very close to the rotor bracket and wheel cylinder and hard to get at.
19. Remove the three 56mm nuts with the Harbor Freight tool socket set (what a deal). With the motor and trans out you can swing the tools and have plenty of clearance to remove the hydrosolator.
20. Install new hydrosolator. Assembly is the reverse order of above.
Pat yourself on the back, grab a cold one and relax.
Last edited by MrRenoman; Dec 18, 2004 at 08:02 PM.
I want to thank all of the forum members for making this possible. Without you I could have never done it. You guys are the greatest. I summed up all the steps below for future reference. I still think we need a sticky.
If during the bolt removal (step 19), they will not break loose, be sure to use your metric hammer and tap each bolt in succession, first in a clockwise, then counterclockwise, then in a star pattern. You should then be able to remove them without further incident. Please note, you may have to go to your local Lowes and get a Kobalt metric hammer as Snap-On discontinued them several years ago due to numerous return issues. Apparently, they would not stay calibrated for any length of time due to overzealous use.
Dont make the same mistake I did, use a healthy amount of this to keep the groove lubricated in the kanutten valve section otherwise, you'll be sorry!~
I can't believe nobody thought to mention the Flux Capacitor. I think that was a one year only deal....probably the same year the fuel pump turbos were needed.