We just ran three chains to bolts that we ran into the intake.

 

I have pulled four motors in two years, dont ask. But I have never droped the trany and unless you just need to or like extra work I would not pull it. Also no need to pull the hood unless you just like extra work. Here is a list of things that need to be done off the top of my head.
1. drain all fluids and disconect batery
2. Mark everything with lables (masking tape will work)
3. If posible take detailed pics or draw diagrams for electrical and vacume lines
4. disconect all electrical conections and lay the harness out of the way
5. pull the fuel lines using a quick disconect tool (about $5)
6. Raise the car onto jack stands and remove at least one front tire (The side you wnt to pull the motor from)
7. Remove all assys (Leave the A/C connected and set aside).
8. disconect radiator and heater hoses, and for you go ahead and pull the radiator.
9.remove balancer bolts and get ballancer off the hub
10. Hook up hoist and suport motor

Time to go undernieth
11. Drop exhaust
12. diconect and remove starter And inspection plate
13.(Support trany) remove 5 Trany to bellhousing bolts if 6 speed or for a auto remove TQ converter bolts and then 6 belhousing bolts (I use a 3 ft extention and a swivel socket for this)
14 remove motor mount bolts
15. Lift motor and remove

I am sure I have missed some but I hope it helps.

Here is a shot of my 6 speed LT1 being pulled

Here is a shot of my HC LT1 going in

 

No.

 

In my case (see my earlier post on page 1 with the pics), the plate that attaches to the intake is called the "Happy Hooker". It's made by TPIS and sells for ~$45. It's drilled for the LT1/4 intake and it's also drilled for use on a conventional carb intake.

 

 

FD2BLK,

Hi, great info!

So you are saying that the bellhousing (on the 6speed) can stay on?

Steven

 

I've removed my engine a few times and never dropped the trans or removed the hood. I never had to use any special attachments either. I simply attached the hoist chain to the passenger front and driver rear of the cylinder heads. I just used hardened bolts and large diameter flat washers (to prevent the chain from slipping off the bolt) and made sure I screwed the bolts into the heads until they bottomed out.

I removed the front accessories and coolant radiator but left the a/c condenser in place. Just place a piece of heavy cardboard or plywood in front of it just in case the engine moves too far forward and bumps into it.

I just unbolted the trans from the block and used a floor jack with a piece of plywood on the lifting cradle under the trans pan to prevent denting it.

The hardest part was getting to the upper passenger side trans to block bolt, but even so, leaving the trans in place is a LOT easier that unbolting it from the drive train.

It's really pretty easy and only takes a few hours.

Jake

 

Yes take a look at my second pic and you will see how the motor/bellhousing went in. Also as Jake stated I just used hardend bolts and bolted the chain straight to the heads, Also visible in the pic

 

Thanks!

 

For those of you who aren't dropping the transmission you are pulling the radiatior right?

I did the opposite I dropped the transmission and pulled the bellhousing but left the radiator in.

If I had it to do over it would probably be easier to pull the radiator out - the transmission probably took an hour or so. If you don't drop the transmission I wonder if you could get by with leaving the exhaust on?

Nice pictures guys thanks for the tips!

 

[QUOTE=ToyC4]For those of you who aren't dropping the transmission you are pulling the radiatior right?

Nope, the radiator is fine just where it sits

 

I have pulled my L98 so many times I put in zippers rather than bolts. I do it alone from the side with the hood and tranny(auto) in place but the radiator out. Takes about ten minutes to remove the rad and its good insurance against accidental damage. Besides its an opportunity for a good cleaning. Thought occurs to me that I would like to do a whole bunch of engine swaps at $2,000.00 a pop.

 

Seriously, there wasn't that much to it .. . a few bolts here a few bolts there probably took me six hours to pull it and that includes dropping the transmission. That was Using a lift and having all the tools I needed right there at my disposal though.

 

Thanks everyone this is good info, I we be pulling the motor in a month or so after I figure out what I need for the 383 build up.

So everyone what are my options on my current LT1 setup, What I want to know is what I can use on this setup for a 383 build up?

The List: Engine: .030 overbore(355 CID) .030 over pistons, Manley rings, stock rods, Clevite bearings.
Comp Cam 112 degree cam profile 224/226 with 515 lift. Comp Cams roller lifters.
Heads: hand ported ,blended, portmatched w/ Manley Proflow stainless steel valves, 2.02 intake, 1.56 exhausts. 3 angle valve job,Erson springs, neoprene seals, Harlan Sharp aluminum 1.5 roller rockers.
Exhaust: Magna flow mufflers,
Exhaust manifolds ExtrudeHoned, port matched.
Fuel: 24lb SVO injectors,adjustable fuel regulator, stock in-tank fuel pump
Chip: Z-industries
Throttle Body: 52 MM TPIS
Intake manifold: ExtrudeHoned, port matched
TPS recalibrator
Ram air system w/K&N filter

I would like to use the heads since they have been modified greatly

But I am open to anything, Cost for 383 build up will be in the 5K range including labor and parts. Thanks Chad

 

Sorry I forgot to tell you why I am pulling the motor, I think I spun a bearing the current setup was rebuilt by previous owner about 2k miles ago.

The valve train is pretty heavy duty I think it may be the cam bearing but not sure until I pull the motor.

Noise is pretty loud knock and pinging at idle, but not real sure about the motor since I am new to the LT1 design but I am learning quick.

I was thinking of pulling the intake and heads to see if it is in the upper portion of the motor, I guess it dosen't make a difference since the work involved of tearing that much of the engine off, I will just pull it.

I will video record the sound once more before I take her out, I have a thread on here about my problem " Spun bearing".

Later, Chad

 

I wish I had put a piece of plywood between the motor and windshield wiper motor when I pulled my L98. Bumped and cracked the plastic housing. Consider adding that protection.
Don't remove the hood.

On your rebuild, have them custom file the rings to your specs or if use pre-gapped, check ALL the rings in their respective bores.

Most of all, have fun, take breaks every so-often.

 

Any other suggestions on my engine rebuild Thanks, chad

 

The chances of it being a cam bearing are between slim and none. They RARELY fail. My vote goes for rod bearing.

Jake

 

Removing it all together would be even better since that would give you better access to the rear intake/runner bolts and the trans to block bolts.

Jake

 

I removed the windshield wiper motor before remove the engine.