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I finally fullfilled my dream of owning a vette and bought my first one. It's an '87 with 99,000 miles but in great condition
I have been a Ford technician for 15 years and know a lot about Mustangs but this is new. I am asssuming that the basics are the same and plan on exhaust as first step.
What is the best rear end gear ration for this car, 3:73 worked best in Mustang. Is 4:11 too much for this car with auto trans?
Any pros and cons on the pulleys for engine, they worked good at freeing up engine on Must?
yes 4.11's are to much if you plan to drive it on the highway. I would go no higher then like 3.23 with that motor. But if it were me I would find a D36 with 3.07's unless you plan to buld the motor then you will want to step up to a D44 rear.
Also -- Welcome to the addiction.
From: St. Peters MO Sometimes you have to prove yourself by doing alot of killing or alot of dying...
a stock 3.07 or a 3.23 is the best way to go with your current set up... however, it does depend on what you want to do with the car. Do an search and keep your eyes posted on here. Gears is a pretty hot topic (and has a group purchase going in the parts section). There are also several other good-cheap-free mods that can be done too.
Welcome and may the schwartz be with you.
If you have a six speed, 4.10's are not to much in my opinion.
Had them in my Camaro w/a six speed and it was fine.
The problem will come if you build up your engine enough that your torque will be breaking the tires loose when you don't intend to, and making the lower gears a lot less effective (performance wise) since you'll have to stay out of the throttle as much in them.
I had planned to go w/4.10s as well, but think I'll limit myself to 3.73s if I turn the lt1 into a stroker.
Edit: I re-read your post and saw you have an auto, 3.73 may be as high as you want to go.
Welcome to the Forum. You'll find that in most cases the TPI responds to mods the opposite as most buildups go. TPI cars' strongpoint is low end torque (conservative cam timing, high velocity heads, tall gears etc). It might not make sense at first, but it works. Lots of good info here on the board.
yes 4.11's are to much if you plan to drive it on the highway. I would go no higher then like 3.23 with that motor. But if it were me I would find a D36 with 3.07's unless you plan to buld the motor then you will want to step up to a D44 rear.
Also -- Welcome to the addiction.
I thought there was a D36 in it from factory with 3.07 or 2.57 gear ratio. How much horse power will the D36 take?
a stock 3.07 or a 3.23 is the best way to go with your current set up... however, it does depend on what you want to do with the car. Do an search and keep your eyes posted on here. Gears is a pretty hot topic (and has a group purchase going in the parts section). There are also several other good-cheap-free mods that can be done too.
Welcome and may the schwartz be with you.
What are the "good-cheap-free" mods?
I assume I can bump the timing up, right
Welcome to the Forum. You'll find that in most cases the TPI responds to mods the opposite as most buildups go. TPI cars' strongpoint is low end torque (conservative cam timing, high velocity heads, tall gears etc). It might not make sense at first, but it works. Lots of good info here on the board.
I'm thinking the first thing to do is get that restrictive exhaust off the car. Can you guys recommend good headers and pipes, the car came with Flowmasters so I think I'm ok in that department
For your (and any) L98 car, an exhaust is the best, and probably easiest way to pick up a pretty sizeable power gain. LT headers (1 5/8" primaries), and a true dual exhaust with free flow mufflers...
If you have an Auto- you have a Dana 36. Depending on the RPO codes you have either 2.59 gears or 3.07 gears. 3.07's are supposed to be pretty good. I have been told the D36 can handle about 450 HP... some more some less...
On the tech tip section of this site there are free mods...You can try them, the cut lid is the only one that most people agree help an L98 car...
Be careful with the timing. Make sure you understand the EST timing, first. I'm not sure if you mustangs used this or not, as I have never worked on one
Last edited by mikey whipreck; Jan 5, 2005 at 07:17 PM.
what is EST timing? The 5.0L mustangs timing is controled by the computer, if you unplug the SPOUT (spark out) connector and advance the timing you get more total advance. It is detuned from factory because they know the average person doesn't know how to pick good gas and doesn't want to be putting engines in the cars. Base timing on a %.0 is 10 degrees BTDC, I used to run 14 or 15 degrees without any detonation and got the best quarter mile times at this timing. The newer mustangs with the 4.6 have DIS so there is no adjusting the timing unless you get an adjustable crank sensor
From: St. Peters MO Sometimes you have to prove yourself by doing alot of killing or alot of dying...
At the top of the tech section there is a sticky for FAQ. I'd recommend reading over that as it details some of the very topics that you will be inquiring about. Also it saves the humiliation of starting a war over airfoils and header primary sizes.
TPIs respond very well to intake and exhaust mods. When reading the FAQ pay special attention to the mods that don't work. This forum will save you a ton of $$$ and a lot of headaches.
what is EST timing? The 5.0L mustangs timing is controled by the computer, if you unplug the SPOUT (spark out) connector and advance the timing you get more total advance. It is detuned from factory because they know the average person doesn't know how to pick good gas and doesn't want to be putting engines in the cars. Base timing on a %.0 is 10 degrees BTDC, I used to run 14 or 15 degrees without any detonation and got the best quarter mile times at this timing. The newer mustangs with the 4.6 have DIS so there is no adjusting the timing unless you get an adjustable crank sensor
Your L98 EST timing works the same way... believe the recommended base setting is 6* BTDC (not positive for your year). Then the computer advances it beyond that. Some on the forum have their base timing advanced to as much as 14* with no detonation. There are directions for how to unplug the EST wire and check (and advance) timing in that FAQ that kwik_ta mentions... you should give that a read.