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I agree with Jake. The EC-IO IC-EO method...works for me.
Maybe that was IO-EC EO-IC .
Anyway, whichever one is open, adjust the 'udder one'. Don't get them in overlap and do this or you'll be doing it again.
Use a remote starter switch to spin the engine over... This can be as simple as two wires to the starter that you just 'stick' together.
That's the way you'll have to do it when you can't remember who borrowed your remote starter switch.
Do one cylinder at a time, do the next one, any order you like, start wherever you left your 5/8 socket and rachet laying.
Should take 10 minutes, tops.
Preload them 1/2, 3/4 turn whatever you like it's not going to make much difference with a hydraulic lifter.
EC-IO IC-EO
Sounds like some RAP music lyrics. ECIO ICEO ECIO ICEO Bu-da-dah-wumpa-bump rump..
Well adjusting the rockers with engine running is necessary with solid lifters but I don't see any advantage with hydraulics as you must get preload close before starting the engine anyway.
I've used the EO/IC metod twice on my L98 and both times idle & power were fine on the first try. Here you just turn the crank by hand, run down each bank cylinder by cylinder and you can't go wrong.
I strongly recommend this method for the occasional tuner as even a first-timer can easily see when the Exh valve is opening or the Int valve is closing simply by watching the relavent pushrod motion. Though this method may be the most tedious it minimizes the chance of an error. But, as I said earlier, be sure to loosen all the rocker arms before starting to allow time for the lifter pistons to come up to the stop clip.
What do you all think about the adjust with enging running method? That's how I've been doing it lately.
IMHO this is the best way to set final preload on a lifter. I like to set them when the oil is up to temp to ensure all variables are where they will be when the motor is up to temp including oil presure.
I mean to say with engine running AFTER rough setting preload as described above.
This is the very BEST method if you are really fastidious about the amount of pre-load. We keep seeing posts asking what is the "best" amount of pre-load to run. The fact of the matter is, for most of us there is a wide range of pre-load that is satisfactory. A quarter, half, three quarter, even a full turn works fine in most engines. But especially if you want the least pre-load possible, to minimize lifter pump up for those last few rpms, no other method so accurately or distinctly identifies the point of zero lash. In most instances, 65Z01's eieio, method is more than adequate and the simplest and most fool proof to execute.