C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1996 lt1 won't start.

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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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Default 1996 lt1 won't start.

solenoid will click but most of the time the engine won't turn over -- every once in a while turns over and starts fine. I assume it isn't the VATS since the starter solenoid is activated, but am not sure. I think it is likely a problem with the starter/startersolenoid. Ideas? I'm reasonably wrench handy, what kind of time to drop/replace the starter should I expect? Thanks all.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 03:18 PM
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Heard someone mention the pellet in key could be worn out?
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ClarenceT
Heard someone mention the pellet in key could be worn out?
I've seen comments to that, but, was wondering -- if the VATS is killing the start doesn't it disable the starter? IE if the VATS is preventing the starting wouldn't there be no clicking heard from the solenoid on the starter?

How does the VATS system prevent the car from starting? (isn't there a light on the dash that signifies that the system is actively preventing a start?)

Thanks!
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 03:37 PM
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(side note -- the click is definately the starter solenoid -- under engine and not behind the dash where the vats relay is)
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 07:28 PM
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I had the same problem with mine.

Do you have any engine oil leaks?

If the starter gets soaked in oil, it won't kick.
You just need to clean it up, and fix the leak, rather than buying a new one.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 07:50 PM
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Did you pull it to clean it up? If so how long should I set aside? If not how did you clean it? Thanks!
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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I didn't, I wound up spending $$$ on a new starter.

I figured out what was wrong after replacing my clutch do to a leaking rear main seal.
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Old Jan 8, 2005 | 10:18 PM
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If VATS doesn't see the correct pellet resistance, it will not close the start enable relay and your starter will do NOTHING, and since your solenoid clicks, there is nothing wrong with your VATS. First, remove your battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs and the battery teminals until clean and bright and replace the cables (neg last). The starter draws 100+ amps and a bright and tight connection to the battery is required in order to deliver this high current. Next, when it clicks or cranks, measure the battery terminal voltage while attempting a crank, the battery voltage must not fall below 9.0 volts or the battery is discharged, battery cables aren't making a good connection, or the battery is at the end of its life. Battery state of charge can be determined by measuring its no load terminal voltage. 12.0 volts and below, discharged. 12.9 volts and above , fully charged. If connections are good and the battery checks out ok, then the starter is suspect. The starter solenoid has a large contact that switches 12v to the starter motor and eventually that contact wears out and you can hear the solenoid click, but the contacts are in such poor condition, starter current can no longer reliably pass through the burned contacts. Replacement of the starter solenoid, its contacts, or just buy a rebuilt or new starter is the cure.
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