When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Well, I got the pipes back into my car and they all fit once you tighten the bolts down. Now I'm back to looking for a place to mount the oil and tranny coolers. I guess I can put my tranny cooler on the front of the PS cooler and hope it gets enough airflow being behind the radiator. As for the oil cooler I think I might stick it where the origional air filter was and cut a hole in the radiator shroud to draw fresh air from there. What do you guys think?
The downfalls of this are:
1.) you are taking air away from the intercooler and radiator
2.) you may be adding warm air into the engine bay that will most likely get sucked into the intake.
I think if I move the coolant overflow tank over about 3" I should have enough room to add a 2qt container for the oil. Would that be enough or do you guys think that I would need more oil for the system?
Hey BTF, so when are you going to tell us how to make one of those idiot lights for oil pressure?
Sorry about the rambling and random thoughts, its early.
It's mad easy, Take a light bulb. Hook one end to 12+ (switched), hook the other end to the terminal on the oil pressure switch for a '80 chevy pickup with a 305 ( idiot light ,not gauge). The switch is 1/8th npt and needs to be inline with the pressure feed to the turbo. Make sure it is grounded to the chassis some how and viola: Turbo pressure idiot light. If pressure drops below 7 psi the switch grounds out and turns on your idiot light.
It's mad easy, Take a light bulb. Hook one end to 12+ (switched), hook the other end to the terminal on the oil pressure switch for a '80 chevy pickup with a 305 ( idiot light ,not gauge). The switch is 1/8th npt and needs to be inline with the pressure feed to the turbo. Make sure it is grounded to the chassis some how and viola: Turbo pressure idiot light. If pressure drops below 7 psi the switch grounds out and turns on your idiot light.
nice, any comments on the size of the oil tank?? If I recall correctly you're using a 4qt one.
I went to napa during lunch the '80 pick up only had a single terminal, if you get one from a '79 305 pickup you've got two connectors making the wiring up of the switch easier, just incase someone else is looking to do this, and it's available in 1/8" and 1/4" npt which ever suits you needs best.
Last edited by mn_vette; Jan 12, 2005 at 02:51 PM.
4 quarts is plenty and should provide significant thermal inertia for keeping the turbo cool.
what type on engine management are you running again? If you are tring to make the 2 bar work on the stocker, email me privtly and I will send you a definition file for converted ecms. (either the Da32 or the EE code as those are the only one's I done so far) The 2 bar map sensor is 60 bucks from auto zone. Get one for a turbo sunbird.
I'm acually running a 128 cubic inch resevoir which equates to about 2.5 quarts.
I'm running the Gen 7 stuff for my boost. And hopefully I'll swing into sequential fuel injection this winter and get rid of my opti-crap totally once and for all.
Nice the gen 7 is good stuff. yea opti's can be a pain, but I would not get rid of it totally. that 360 deg sensor does a great job of narrowing spark scatter. Use a set of northstar coils.
Nice the gen 7 is good stuff. yea opti's can be a pain, but I would not get rid of it totally. that 360 deg sensor does a great job of narrowing spark scatter. Use a set of northstar coils.
I've had 4 different opti sensors in the 3.5 years that I've owned the car. I'm going to go with Accel's dual sync distributor. It has a cam and crank sensor built into it. This way I can run sequential instead of bank to bank. That should help idle and driveability alot.
yea, the dual sync is nice, I use it on my dad's blown s 10. But like I said the spark scatter issue with a conventional distributor can make the difference between the ragged edge (most power) and a blown motor. Or great power on a safe tune vs a safe tune that leaves alot on the table.
opti timing = + or - 1/4 deg accuracy
dual sync = + or - 3-5 deg accuracy.
wow, I didn't realize that it was that inaccurate.
Well, I just ordered my Cooler/fan combo from summit and I sent the guy off to make my resevoir box. He's using 1/4" steel plate that he had lying around, it's going to be alot heavier than the 1/16 that it probably needed, but I'll get it a week or so sooner so I can send it out and get it coated. My engine guys is going to start ording parts so I should have the engine togther the beginning of next month sometime. And then we throw it on the dyno to see what it does
Last edited by mn_vette; Jan 14, 2005 at 04:22 PM.