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Here are a few pictures of Glens new heart for his baby:
CNC ported 210 LT4 AFR heads (We checked them all out so don't ask )
CNC ported intake ports
CNC ported exhaust ports
The bottom end, note the splayed billet main caps at all five locations. Also check out the billet rear main cap that is a work of art, all of which are supplied by Program Engineering. We opted for a Callies crankshaft on Glens engine due to no available cranks for Lunati. I felt that it was of equal quality. Also the rods are 4340 billet steel forgings from Lunati which are attached to custom Ross slugs which used a 2618 alloy to take a bit of boost
Another shot of the crankshaft and LT4 Extreme chain
This is the assembled short block ready for final assembly. Its almost there Glen!
This engine is a 383 with 8.7:1 compression. It will see between 12 and 14 pounds of boost. The cam is a custom ground cam using a Crane 8620 billet core, the cam profile was from Comp Cams. But seeing how they don't offer a billet steel cam with a cast gear, we opted to go to a local cam grinder who ground us the cams using Cranes billet cores.
Where did you get the snout for the crank and balancer cola has been jerking me for 2 mths.
Timing chain also cola says my Lt4 timing chain won't work .
I was tring to make the stock opti and water pump work on it.
I would love some info.
Thanks in advance!!
Where did you get the snout for the crank and balancer cola has been jerking me for 2 mths.
Timing chain also cola says my Lt4 timing chain won't work .
I was tring to make the stock opti and water pump work on it.
I would love some info.
Thanks in advance!!
Maybe that is why COLA is out of business. The front snout on this Callies crank is no different from any other SBC that has been in production for eons. The timing set I am using is a LT4 extreme set with 1/2" pitch rollers, it is the same chain type as what is used in the GM GEN 6 454, 502 and 572 crate motors. The only major problem right now is getting cranks. I know you can get an Eagle any day. But the wait for a USA made 4340 forged cranks is anywhere from weeks to months. Callies is 6 weeks, I purchased the last two from them to complete the two engines I am working on. They may have one left from their production run of three about 4 weeks ago. Lunati can't even give me a date to ship as they can't even get the raw forgings to make a crank. I have one brand new two peice 3.75" stroke 4340 Lunati in stock. It will work in a newer model block if you use the two piece seal adapter. Or if you have a two peice rear main block it just drops right in.
Thanks for posting the pictures, I was surprised to see them.
I went out of town for awhile and when I came back, my internet was down. In fact it will be down until Feb. (Changed ISP's) and the only time I can hop on is after work.
Anyway, you guys already probably know this but I wanted to give credit to TJ. He is all around top knotch and I would definitely have him build my next engine.
Anyway, can't wait to put it in.
On the other note, sent my inlet & discharge tube to Greg Carrol for him to modify my intake and to weld in the nozzles for his injection kit.
Is there any reason why you guys didn't opt to go to a 396 instead of a 383?
Personal preference and some design preferences. I prefered a shorter stroke to give me a little more compression height so that I can move the rings around on the pistons. For these pistons I had the top ring relocated a bit lower from the top of the piston, this shields it from heat as this is going to see boost. With a longer stroke the compression height is shorter, I guess I could have gone with a shorted rod, but then the rod to stroke ratio is not as desirable. I felt this was a better design and it will live long and provide many hours of fun for Glen.
Personal preference and some design preferences. I prefered a shorter stroke to give me a little more compression height so that I can move the rings around on the pistons. For these pistons I had the top ring relocated a bit lower from the top of the piston, this shields it from heat as this is going to see boost. With a longer stroke the compression height is shorter, I guess I could have gone with a shorted rod, but then the rod to stroke ratio is not as desirable. I felt this was a better design and it will live long and provide many hours of fun for Glen.
That makes sense. I'm just wondering because I'd like to eventually do a blown 396 but I don't want to make any mistakes when it comes to component selection. And I don't want to blow up the engine by making a foolish mistake in the planning process.
Thanks for your valuable information, I really appreciate it.
That makes sense. I'm just wondering because I'd like to eventually do a blown 396 but I don't want to make any mistakes when it comes to component selection. And I don't want to blow up the engine by making a foolish mistake in the planning process.
Thanks for your valuable information, I really appreciate it.
The other important factor is cam selection. That one aspect is probably one of the top 3 things to do in an engine build. A lot of people want a huge lumpy sounding cam. While it sounds great at the drive in (jeez I am getting old, they are all but gone now ) but they make for poor street manners for an every day driver, they usually stink because of the high HC count associated with lots of overlap, all this not to mention the problems with tuning issues.
Plus if you are going to put boost on it, one doesn't need a lot of cam, thats what the blower is for. There is a practical limit of course, I don't think I would go much over a GM 847 grind that is ground on a looser LSA to get rid of some overlap. I think if its ground on a 114 and add 5 degrees of advance to it, that cam would make a decent blower grind for someone making 12 to 14 pounds of boost. Thats about max anyways for the street on pump gas.