C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Trying to fix passive keyless entry

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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 07:03 PM
  #1  
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Default Trying to fix passive keyless entry

Hi. I've been trying to get the pke working on my '95 coupe for some time now, and I've read probably every thread on this forum about the subject, which has been very helpful. At this point, the problem is that I get into programming mode, but the light never stops flashing when I bring the transmitter into range.

I have a used fob that I purchased from an online reseller that specialized in keyless entry transmitters. The dealership also told me that it was the correct fob, although they are certainly not infallible. The fob has a brand new battery. I just put in a new receiver for the system because the old one wouldn't go into programming mode. I am doing the programming procedure as I have read in the manual and this forum:

1)Transmitter is out of range, passenger door is unlocked, key is in on position
2)Hit the trip/odo button twice, then hold fuel/info until the light comes on
3)turn the key off but leave in ignition. pke light starts flashing to indicate it is in programming mode
4)bring the trasnmitter in range. nothing changes

I've tried shaking the transmitter, pressing the buttons, shaking while pressing the buttons, tried by the driver side door and the hatch, and nothing changes

I read about shorting pins 4 and 12 in the diagnostic link connector, but I need some help on that part. First, I didn't see any numbering by the pins, so if someone could tell me or show me with a diagram how the pins are numbered, that would help a lot. Second, do I short these pins while I am in programming mode and the pke light is flashing to accept the transmitter? Third, is the code an actual number that appears in the DIC or is indicated by how many times the pke light flashes?

Answers to those questions and any other suggestions about what I might need to check out or am doing incorrectly would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance- this forum is great

Last edited by Glenn-C4; Jan 15, 2005 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 07:16 PM
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I would find somebody else with a known good PKE system and try your fob with their car, and their fob with your car, so you at least know which end is the problem.
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Old Jan 15, 2005 | 08:02 PM
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to that end, any fob for a 93-96 coupe should work on my '95, correct?
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 01:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Glenn-C4
to that end, any fob for a 93-96 coupe should work on my '95, correct?
I don't know for a fact, but I believe so.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 01:56 AM
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The pin out for the DLC connector looks like this.

01,02,03,04,05,06,07,08
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16

Make sure only one transmitter is in range.

Ignition Key to Lock Position

Ground Pin 8 to Pin 5.

Shake Transmitter to be programmed while it's in
range of the receiver.

Look at the Passive Key Entry Indicator and see what
Diagnostic Trouble Code Flashes.

Example. Flash pause Flash Flash Flash long pause
would be DTC 13.

DTC 13 Replace Transmitter battery. If DTC13 is still displayed, check antenna's.

In a coupe there are two antenna's. One in the drivers door and one in the hatch area.

(To eliminate the Antenna's, place the Transmitter with in 1 inch of the Receiver and try to program it).

If it still wont' program, the Transmitter is bad.

DTC 12 Replace PKE Receiver.

DTC 15 Transmitter is Valid (Has been programmed)

DTC 14 Transmitter is not Valid but is being received by the PKE Receiver. Try programming the Transmitter
again. If it doesn't program, try programming a different Transmitter.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 08:59 PM
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Ahh, thank you for the explanation. I did the diagnostic and I got a flash pause flash flash flash long pause, which is a 13 if I understood correctly.

This is odd because the mechanic put in a brand new battery in the transmitter when he installed the new receiver. I tried shaking the transmitter around the receiver to rule out the antennae, but it still wouldn't program, so I am going to try getting another battery in the transmitter before anything else.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Glenn-C4
This is odd because the mechanic put in a brand new battery in the transmitter when he installed the new receiver.
Well, all it knows is it's not receiving a signal, so it assumes you have a bad battery. Doesn't really tell you anything.

But battery is easiest thing to check, so yeah check it or change it first.
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Old Jan 16, 2005 | 09:19 PM
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I don't know what the battery looks like. You may want to open the Fob and see if the battery is in backwards.

Can you measure the Battery voltage with a Volt Meter?

If you don't have a Volt Meter, take the Battery to a Radio Shack store. They can measure the Battery voltage and and tell you if it's good or bad.

Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Jan 16, 2005 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Jan 17, 2005 | 04:16 PM
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The battery is installed correctly, with the plus sign up. Just for good measure I reseated it a few times and tried putting it in the opposite way, with no effect. I just had radioshack test the battery and it's fine, so my problem seems to be one of the following
1)i have the wrong transmitter (although the dealership told me it was the right one)
2)my transmitter is defective
3)both my antennae are defective

Any other ideas?

I am guessing it is the transmitter. Can someone confirm whether any fob from a 1993-1996 coupe would work? Fobs for convertibles do not work with coupes, correct?

If anyone is in the Ventura County area with a working fob that would be compatible with mine, I would really appreciate if I could come meet you and test the fob with my system.
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Old Jan 18, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Convert & coupe... same fob, different case, thats all!
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 02:51 AM
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A friend of a friend hooked me up with a working fob- mine was defective. Everything works great now- thanks for all the help
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Old Jan 19, 2005 | 07:44 AM
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Glad to hear it all worked out
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