Trying to fix passive keyless entry
I have a used fob that I purchased from an online reseller that specialized in keyless entry transmitters. The dealership also told me that it was the correct fob, although they are certainly not infallible. The fob has a brand new battery. I just put in a new receiver for the system because the old one wouldn't go into programming mode. I am doing the programming procedure as I have read in the manual and this forum:
1)Transmitter is out of range, passenger door is unlocked, key is in on position
2)Hit the trip/odo button twice, then hold fuel/info until the light comes on
3)turn the key off but leave in ignition. pke light starts flashing to indicate it is in programming mode
4)bring the trasnmitter in range. nothing changes
I've tried shaking the transmitter, pressing the buttons, shaking while pressing the buttons, tried by the driver side door and the hatch, and nothing changes
I read about shorting pins 4 and 12 in the diagnostic link connector, but I need some help on that part. First, I didn't see any numbering by the pins, so if someone could tell me or show me with a diagram how the pins are numbered, that would help a lot. Second, do I short these pins while I am in programming mode and the pke light is flashing to accept the transmitter? Third, is the code an actual number that appears in the DIC or is indicated by how many times the pke light flashes?
Answers to those questions and any other suggestions about what I might need to check out or am doing incorrectly would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance- this forum is great
Last edited by Glenn-C4; Jan 15, 2005 at 07:09 PM.
01,02,03,04,05,06,07,08
09,10,11,12,13,14,15,16
Make sure only one transmitter is in range.
Ignition Key to Lock Position
Ground Pin 8 to Pin 5.
Shake Transmitter to be programmed while it's in
range of the receiver.
Look at the Passive Key Entry Indicator and see what
Diagnostic Trouble Code Flashes.
Example. Flash pause Flash Flash Flash long pause
would be DTC 13.
DTC 13 Replace Transmitter battery. If DTC13 is still displayed, check antenna's.
In a coupe there are two antenna's. One in the drivers door and one in the hatch area.
(To eliminate the Antenna's, place the Transmitter with in 1 inch of the Receiver and try to program it).
If it still wont' program, the Transmitter is bad.
DTC 12 Replace PKE Receiver.
DTC 15 Transmitter is Valid (Has been programmed)
DTC 14 Transmitter is not Valid but is being received by the PKE Receiver. Try programming the Transmitter
again. If it doesn't program, try programming a different Transmitter.
This is odd because the mechanic put in a brand new battery in the transmitter when he installed the new receiver. I tried shaking the transmitter around the receiver to rule out the antennae, but it still wouldn't program, so I am going to try getting another battery in the transmitter before anything else.
But battery is easiest thing to check, so yeah check it or change it first.
Can you measure the Battery voltage with a Volt Meter?
If you don't have a Volt Meter, take the Battery to a Radio Shack store. They can measure the Battery voltage and and tell you if it's good or bad.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; Jan 16, 2005 at 09:24 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
1)i have the wrong transmitter (although the dealership told me it was the right one)
2)my transmitter is defective
3)both my antennae are defective
Any other ideas?
I am guessing it is the transmitter. Can someone confirm whether any fob from a 1993-1996 coupe would work? Fobs for convertibles do not work with coupes, correct?
If anyone is in the Ventura County area with a working fob that would be compatible with mine, I would really appreciate if I could come meet you and test the fob with my system.













