HELP......stumbling,hesitation,no power
Last edited by ar91c4; Jan 16, 2005 at 11:26 AM.
I can tell you from experience that whatever is wrong is fixable. Just requires knowlege and $$$s. How much of one directly affects how much of the other.
-Eric
I can tell you from experience that whatever is wrong is fixable. Just requires knowlege and $$$s. How much of one directly affects how much of the other.
-Eric
THanks guys,,,,My timing was way OFF.I dont know who set it or what they thought they where doing but it wouldn't even read on the tab...it was way below actually....Runs like a million bucks now....thank god! Does anyboby have any idea about the tach?its still at 2,000 at idle and redlines at quarter throttle???????????
Last edited by ar91c4; Jan 16, 2005 at 03:22 PM.
with hesitation, the first thing to check is always timing...
mainly because it's free
sorry, dunno about your tach though
The stumble... hm... that is problematic. First off, the fuel pressure is way too high. Stock, with the vacuum line removed, should only be about 40psi. Recheck, if you had the line attached. Do you have access to a camera? If so, take a pic of the area around the rear of the fuel rail. That's where the Fuel presure regulator is, and if it's bad, it will do wierd things, I wonder if it's adjustable.
Other causes... bad coil. injectors. TPS.
Check the coolant level... if you have a leaking gasket, then a stumble will occur. There is a test available that will easily determine if there are combustion gases in the coolant. If they are present, you have a bad headgasket.
Another cause is a clogged catalytic converter. Take a rubber mallet and tap, sharp, but not hard, on the cat(s). If you hear rattles, then the cats monolith has failed, and the cats need replacing. If so, please look into high performance cats. They're not all that expensive, and will give performance. Depending on where you live, you can ditch the precats and go to town on the main cat only.
How to set timing - you need a timing light, no doubt. The process is simple: somewhere near the power brake booster is a tan wire. That must be disconnected. It has a connector. You need the 9/16" distributor wrench - go to sears for it. The bolt is on the passengers side, down low under the distributor. Loosen accordingly, but not too much.
the timing mark is on the drivers side, so is #1 cylinder. use that plug wire for the timing lights' inductive pickup. connect the light to the battery.
start the car, aiming the light at the timing mark (on the crank balancer) there is a scale, the bottom mark is 0, you want to move 2 high marks up (that should be 6* BTDC). You will have to phyiscally turn the distributor to change the timing. The mark on the crank is a little dot thingy, and it will move up and down against that scale. It's kinda neat, really.
I will check the timing cover on my gf's 87... and confirm the mark for 6*.
Shut off the engine, retorque the bolt and reconnect the tan wire.
What you have successfully done is set the base timing, the tan wire is what sends timing data from the ECU to the distributer.
Invest in a Helms manual - factory service manual - www.helminc.com
Keep us posted!
Last edited by bogus; Jan 17, 2005 at 02:01 AM.
(edit: looks like bogus beat me to it)
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
(edit: looks like bogus beat me to it)
ok well I already set my timing to 6* yesterday and that seemed to take care of most of the problem...it is a ajustable regulator and what is stock psi?.....also do you think i should just bypass that filter for my tach?also what can I take my timing up to (10-12*)......thanks guys...
Is this the same on a 1990... I have the same problem....
Just looked at my engine... no black cylinder and a wire going straight to the firewall...
Last edited by 90SteelBlueCoupe; Jan 21, 2005 at 02:16 PM.
or call Chris @ Superior Chevy, 1.800.728.8267. If he does not have it, he might be able to find it.
The Last Detail may have it, too.
Last edited by bogus; Jan 21, 2005 at 10:29 PM.
















