Turbo Cam
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Turbo Cam
I've been looking around and calling people and reading threads and I'm still not sure what I should be doing for a cam. I called a few cam companies and here's what they advised me. Pretty wide range there.
1.) 230/227 .544/.560 lift 114 LSA
2.) 232/232 .539/.539 lift 114 LSA
3.) 224/218 .536/.528 lift 114 LSA
4.) 221/217 .540/.539 lift 115 LSA
Here's what I've got:
This car is a daily driver.
LT1 393ci 8.5-9.2:1 CR(setting it next week)
Ported Stock heads - numbers say keep lift under .550
I'm going to keep it under 6500 rpm's
I'm using stock manifolds to dual 2.5" to a single 3" to the p-trim T76 to a 3.5 out the back.
Auto Car 2500 stall, 3.45 rear end.
Any kind of help would be appreciated, especially what kind of turbo cam you're running and what numbers you're getting. Thanks
1.) 230/227 .544/.560 lift 114 LSA
2.) 232/232 .539/.539 lift 114 LSA
3.) 224/218 .536/.528 lift 114 LSA
4.) 221/217 .540/.539 lift 115 LSA
Here's what I've got:
This car is a daily driver.
LT1 393ci 8.5-9.2:1 CR(setting it next week)
Ported Stock heads - numbers say keep lift under .550
I'm going to keep it under 6500 rpm's
I'm using stock manifolds to dual 2.5" to a single 3" to the p-trim T76 to a 3.5 out the back.
Auto Car 2500 stall, 3.45 rear end.
Any kind of help would be appreciated, especially what kind of turbo cam you're running and what numbers you're getting. Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by mn_vette
I've been looking around and calling people and reading threads and I'm still not sure what I should be doing for a cam. I called a few cam companies and here's what they advised me. Pretty wide range there.
1.) 230/227 .544/.560 lift 114 LSA
2.) 232/232 .539/.539 lift 114 LSA
3.) 224/218 .536/.528 lift 114 LSA
4.) 221/217 .540/.539 lift 115 LSA
Here's what I've got:
This car is a daily driver.
LT1 393ci 8.5-9.2:1 CR(setting it next week)
Ported Stock heads - numbers say keep lift under .550
I'm going to keep it under 6500 rpm's
I'm using stock manifolds to dual 2.5" to a single 3" to the p-trim T76 to a 3.5 out the back.
Auto Car 2500 stall, 3.45 rear end.
Any kind of help would be appreciated, especially what kind of turbo cam you're running and what numbers you're getting. Thanks
1.) 230/227 .544/.560 lift 114 LSA
2.) 232/232 .539/.539 lift 114 LSA
3.) 224/218 .536/.528 lift 114 LSA
4.) 221/217 .540/.539 lift 115 LSA
Here's what I've got:
This car is a daily driver.
LT1 393ci 8.5-9.2:1 CR(setting it next week)
Ported Stock heads - numbers say keep lift under .550
I'm going to keep it under 6500 rpm's
I'm using stock manifolds to dual 2.5" to a single 3" to the p-trim T76 to a 3.5 out the back.
Auto Car 2500 stall, 3.45 rear end.
Any kind of help would be appreciated, especially what kind of turbo cam you're running and what numbers you're getting. Thanks
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
how about something like this?
224/221 duration, .536"/.542", 114lsa
still gives me -5.5* of overlap and the lift is about where I want it. I'm worried that my restictive headers and turbine housing are going to need a little extra duration to push the air out.
224/221 duration, .536"/.542", 114lsa
still gives me -5.5* of overlap and the lift is about where I want it. I'm worried that my restictive headers and turbine housing are going to need a little extra duration to push the air out.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
GGGGGRRRRRRRRRR...................just got word back today that when they magnafluxed my crank that it was cracked on all 4 rod journals. I guess I'm going to be getting a new crank, maybe I'll destroke it down to a 355ci and drop the compression alot with my -24cc pistons.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,158
Likes: 9
From: N.E. WA
I can't give you numbers, but I chose a Comp Cams turbo grind...224/224 .605/.605 w/1.6rr on a 114lsa. It is going in my 383 w/ 9:1 comp. As you know it is still "in progress". Maybe this summer is the one! Good luck with your project.
Last edited by ANTI VENOM; Jan 21, 2005 at 10:26 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 2,535
Likes: 2
From: Rochester NY
Originally Posted by ANTI VENOM
I can't give you numbers, but I chose a Comp Cams turbo grind...224/224 .605/.605 w/1.6rr on a 114lsa. It is going in my 383 w/ 9:1 comp. As you know it is still "in progress". Maybe this summer is the one! Good luck with your project.
Bruce
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by mn_vette
GGGGGRRRRRRRRRR...................just got word back today that when they magnafluxed my crank that it was cracked on all 4 rod journals. I guess I'm going to be getting a new crank, maybe I'll destroke it down to a 355ci and drop the compression alot with my -24cc pistons.
what kind of a crank was it?
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by tjwong
Bummer what kind of a crank was it?
what kind of a crank was it?This time it's going to be dyno tuned and then set back a few to keep it safe. And then not touched again.
As far as the crank stuff goes, I really didn't budget anything for it so I'm SOL on that part, but I think I'm going to get a smaller crank and a new set of pistons to get a propper 9.0:1 compression. I'm just hoping the price won't kill me, but that's what credit cards are for, right?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by mn_vette
It was an eagle 4340 forged crank 3.75" that was offset ground to a 3.85" stroke. That's how I got my 393ci. I think it was from my random expariments with the turbo and no intercooler last year. I know I was getting detonation from the blown head gaskets, and I'm sure when the nitrous blew the engine that didn't help either.
This time it's going to be dyno tuned and then set back a few to keep it safe. And then not touched again.
As far as the crank stuff goes, I really didn't budget anything for it so I'm SOL on that part, but I think I'm going to get a smaller crank and a new set of pistons to get a propper 9.0:1 compression. I'm just hoping the price won't kill me, but that's what credit cards are for, right?
This time it's going to be dyno tuned and then set back a few to keep it safe. And then not touched again.
As far as the crank stuff goes, I really didn't budget anything for it so I'm SOL on that part, but I think I'm going to get a smaller crank and a new set of pistons to get a propper 9.0:1 compression. I'm just hoping the price won't kill me, but that's what credit cards are for, right?
Thats a real bummer....damn chinese steel. I know they are expensive but that is one of the reasons why I stay with the likes of Callies, Lunati or Crower.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 2
From: Honeoye Ny
I bought a scat. I hope I don't have any similar problems. Try having your next one surface nitrided or (AND) cryo'd, it might put up with a little more punishment. Big cubes are unneccary with turbo's anywho, id go back to 355. I wish I had just stayed with the stock stroke, I'd have saved alotta $$$ in machinework.
Safety Car
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,283
Likes: 0
From: Houston Texas
Originally Posted by Baldturbofreak
I bought a scat. I hope I don't have any similar problems. Try having your next one surface nitrided or (AND) cryo'd, it might put up with a little more punishment. Big cubes are unneccary with turbo's anywho, id go back to 355. I wish I had just stayed with the stock stroke, I'd have saved alotta $$$ in machinework.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by Baldturbofreak
Big cubes are unneccary with turbo's anywho, id go back to 355. I wish I had just stayed with the stock stroke, I'd have saved alotta $$$ in machinework.
That is true, however, I've got to get new pistons and crank, and the machine work is already done on my old block. And in just about any given situation at the same boost levels the bigger cubes win.
So I'll take the extra 33ci(if I go 383) for the same price. Having the extra torque before the boost comes in will be nice on the launch.
I'll have to talk to my parts guy, maybe he can get me something other than eagle this time. I hope it won't cost too much more.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by Baldturbofreak
I got my scat crank for $500 from cnc-performance
from www.cnc-motorsports.com ?
Last edited by mn_vette; Jan 22, 2005 at 04:08 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 2
From: Honeoye Ny
It's a forged 4340. I got it off ebay, so it might have been a clearence item. Call em the guy was really cool and they might work with you on the price. I paid $916 for the crank and a set of 6" eagle h beams wih the L19 bolt upgrade
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,637
Likes: 2
From: Honeoye Ny
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
BTF,
What compression are you running with a 383 and a 6" rod? What kind of pistons?? I'm looking at srp but they only have a -31cc dish for a 5.7" rod and I've got 6". I really don't want to buy a new set of rods too.
What compression are you running with a 383 and a 6" rod? What kind of pistons?? I'm looking at srp but they only have a -31cc dish for a 5.7" rod and I've got 6". I really don't want to buy a new set of rods too.