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good theory, but for one flaw - the EPROM stores the fan data. When a new computer is installed, the EPROM is reused.
Good theory, but for one flaw - his EEPROM is soldered to the circuit board. Mine isn't, because I had it removed and socketed.
Also, if somebody had computer problems on an older computer, and reused the old PROM, that would be a poor repair job. At the very least they should reburn it.
Good theory, but for one flaw - his EEPROM is soldered to the circuit board. Mine isn't, because I had it removed and socketed.
Also, if somebody had computer problems on an older computer, and reused the old PROM, that would be a poor repair job. At the very least they should reburn it.
on 90-93, the EPROM is removable... I misread the year, read 95 as 93... reading to quick.
the chip does not need to be reburned, a power programmer can check and update accordingly.
I don't know if this applies in this case, and this was in a Chevy truck, but I have had problems in the past with aftermarket temp sensors from the big parts houses. O'Reilly, Autozone, etc. I went through three of them reading high temps until I bought one from the GM parts dept. I was getting readings as much as 35 degrees over the actual temps.
Is the trans TQ converter in good shape?
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
When it overheats, the water boils and you can hear it inside the car. The tempratures hit 250 and above, when the needle pegs out on the analog guage and the digital reads "Too High" or something like that. I didn't accept the new computer because it did not fix the problem so I told the dealers to keep that. I can't drive the car around the block after it has been idling for awhile because if I put it in gear, the temprature will rise and peg out very quickly.
Is the trans TQ converter in good shape?
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
The car has 220,000 miles on it, the motor has been rebuilt at around 150k.
The second fan does come on with the AC but it makes the car heat up faster as if it were in gear.
I have not installed a switch.
I have not noticed the engine running at 600rpms, the motor actually runs fine, just overheats.
It doesn't get hot on the freeway as long as I'm doing 55mph or more. It gets hot when I stop.
I have not done a compression test yet since the dealer wanted $100 to do it after I spent over $1300 already for them to diagnose the problem. That will be my next move I suppose. Thanks for your posting.
The car has 220,000 miles on it, the motor has been rebuilt at around 150k.
The second fan does come on with the AC but it makes the car heat up faster as if it were in gear.
I have not installed a switch.
I have not noticed the engine running at 600rpms, the motor actually runs fine, just overheats.
It doesn't get hot on the freeway as long as I'm doing 55mph or more. It gets hot when I stop.
I have not done a compression test yet since the dealer wanted $100 to do it after I spent over $1300 already for them to diagnose the problem. That will be my next move I suppose. Thanks for your posting.
Both fans should be running with the A/C on. You say it runs cool on the highway but overheats when at a light. That would indicate an airflow problem across the radiator. How cool on the highway? Verify both fans operate, primary will engage @ 228*. Secondary will engage with the A/C on.
I'm leaning towards the head gasket too, but wouldn't I have water leaking on the ground if that were the case. I really haven't noticed any water leakage, but I'll take a look. It's just that I hadn't looked for water before. Is it possible that the shaft that turns the water pump has gone bad and if so, how would I diagnose it?
Albertsmith,
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
Albertsmith,
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
It can also go into the cylinders. If there is enough, it will be evidenced as white "smoke".
Thanks for the help, guys! It's not fixed yet, but I have a better idea of where to start. I'll get back to you guys and let you know how it goes. Again, Thanks!