Overheating problem, still no solution...
#21
Originally Posted by bogus
good theory, but for one flaw - the EPROM stores the fan data. When a new computer is installed, the EPROM is reused.
Also, if somebody had computer problems on an older computer, and reused the old PROM, that would be a poor repair job. At the very least they should reburn it.
#22
Team Owner
Originally Posted by steve9899
Good theory, but for one flaw - his EEPROM is soldered to the circuit board. Mine isn't, because I had it removed and socketed.
Also, if somebody had computer problems on an older computer, and reused the old PROM, that would be a poor repair job. At the very least they should reburn it.
Also, if somebody had computer problems on an older computer, and reused the old PROM, that would be a poor repair job. At the very least they should reburn it.
the chip does not need to be reburned, a power programmer can check and update accordingly.
#23
Race Director
I don't know if this applies in this case, and this was in a Chevy truck, but I have had problems in the past with aftermarket temp sensors from the big parts houses. O'Reilly, Autozone, etc. I went through three of them reading high temps until I bought one from the GM parts dept. I was getting readings as much as 35 degrees over the actual temps.
#24
Safety Car
Is the trans TQ converter in good shape?
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
#25
Advanced
Thread Starter
When it overheats, the water boils and you can hear it inside the car. The tempratures hit 250 and above, when the needle pegs out on the analog guage and the digital reads "Too High" or something like that. I didn't accept the new computer because it did not fix the problem so I told the dealers to keep that. I can't drive the car around the block after it has been idling for awhile because if I put it in gear, the temprature will rise and peg out very quickly.
#26
Advanced
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by REDC4CORVETTE
Is the trans TQ converter in good shape?
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
Is the engine pinging on acceleration.
How many miles on this car?
When the A/C comes on does the 2nd fan come on?
I know you installed a Switch try running it from the time you start the car.
Are the top or bottom radiator hoses colapsing?
Are your low coolent or overheat lights comming on?
Does the engine idle at 600 rpms.
Does it get hot above 55 mph?if it does you most likely have a head gasket problem,or a raidator hose colapsing most after market hoses don't have the spring inside them .
Do you have a laser heat gun ?
shoot the block should be around 180 to 220, the exaust should read 900 to around 1250.
Raidator should be hot at the top cooler at the bottom.
Reverse flow system.
Have you done a compression test?
Need more information.
The second fan does come on with the AC but it makes the car heat up faster as if it were in gear.
I have not installed a switch.
I have not noticed the engine running at 600rpms, the motor actually runs fine, just overheats.
It doesn't get hot on the freeway as long as I'm doing 55mph or more. It gets hot when I stop.
I have not done a compression test yet since the dealer wanted $100 to do it after I spent over $1300 already for them to diagnose the problem. That will be my next move I suppose. Thanks for your posting.
#27
Melting Slicks
I'm wondering about your coolant mixture. Is it 50/50 as it should be? More is not better.
I had that problem with my 94 and got the mixture to 50/50 and it seems to be OK now.
Good luck
I had that problem with my 94 and got the mixture to 50/50 and it seems to be OK now.
Good luck
#28
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by albertlsmith
The car has 220,000 miles on it, the motor has been rebuilt at around 150k.
The second fan does come on with the AC but it makes the car heat up faster as if it were in gear.
I have not installed a switch.
I have not noticed the engine running at 600rpms, the motor actually runs fine, just overheats.
It doesn't get hot on the freeway as long as I'm doing 55mph or more. It gets hot when I stop.
I have not done a compression test yet since the dealer wanted $100 to do it after I spent over $1300 already for them to diagnose the problem. That will be my next move I suppose. Thanks for your posting.
The second fan does come on with the AC but it makes the car heat up faster as if it were in gear.
I have not installed a switch.
I have not noticed the engine running at 600rpms, the motor actually runs fine, just overheats.
It doesn't get hot on the freeway as long as I'm doing 55mph or more. It gets hot when I stop.
I have not done a compression test yet since the dealer wanted $100 to do it after I spent over $1300 already for them to diagnose the problem. That will be my next move I suppose. Thanks for your posting.
#32
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Whidbey Island Washington
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you might find these sites of interest...sounds familar... http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...l-macs2001.htm and http://www.imcool.com/articles/antif...ohnbrunner.htm Also, you might want to do a search re DEX COOL. I understand there's a class action suit in the works because of engine problems and contradictary statements by GM/Texaco.
Last edited by ZRWON; 01-22-2005 at 08:07 PM.
#33
Advanced
Thread Starter
I'm leaning towards the head gasket too, but wouldn't I have water leaking on the ground if that were the case. I really haven't noticed any water leakage, but I'll take a look. It's just that I hadn't looked for water before. Is it possible that the shaft that turns the water pump has gone bad and if so, how would I diagnose it?
#34
Albertsmith,
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
#35
Race Director
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: The Top of Utah
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Originally Posted by 84whitevette
Albertsmith,
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
Usually the coolant will leak into the oil not onto the ground when the headgasket fails. Check the oil to see if there is coolant mixed with it. If you don't see any, it may be still occurring to a mild degree. A compression test as recommended by others will help find your answer.
RACE ON!!!
#36
Advanced
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help, guys! It's not fixed yet, but I have a better idea of where to start. I'll get back to you guys and let you know how it goes. Again, Thanks!