Admiral 94 comes home. Finally ! :). Let the mods begin !!
10-24-2018, 10:14 AM
#582
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Managed a little time to get to the z on the weekend. Spent a good 20 mins just staring at the water pump to thermostat housing hose... I’m sure those that have done it know what I was thinking 
If anyone with an Lt1 thinks an otispark is hard they need to spend a few mins looking at an Lt5 engine bay and look for that hose lol ! Ok all kidding aside I realized right away that my pliers and small hands just can’t get that done. And the first thing that did come to mind is the threads I vaguely recall about using surgical tools. Smart people I now know :clap: Ended up ordering a tool I forget it’s name but it has a wire and it’s a spring clamp tool. Will tackle that and then it’s reassembly time for the hoses.
Thermostat appears oem. Still undecided which route to take with it as I’d like a 160 but will decide that shortly. Pic of the rad and a the new rad with my large tube light behind it. I think I’ve seen far worse but it’s pretty clogged up.
Oem
peak through the new one.. with bubble wrap still on. Didn’t want to pull it out just yet as I didn’t have time to put it in
If anyone with an Lt1 thinks an otispark is hard they need to spend a few mins looking at an Lt5 engine bay and look for that hose lol ! Ok all kidding aside I realized right away that my pliers and small hands just can’t get that done. And the first thing that did come to mind is the threads I vaguely recall about using surgical tools. Smart people I now know :clap: Ended up ordering a tool I forget it’s name but it has a wire and it’s a spring clamp tool. Will tackle that and then it’s reassembly time for the hoses. Thermostat appears oem. Still undecided which route to take with it as I’d like a 160 but will decide that shortly. Pic of the rad and a the new rad with my large tube light behind it. I think I’ve seen far worse but it’s pretty clogged up.
Oem
peak through the new one.. with bubble wrap still on. Didn’t want to pull it out just yet as I didn’t have time to put it in
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5abivt (11-28-2018)
10-24-2018, 01:15 PM
#584
Le Mans Master
Absolutely no reason to run a colder thermo. Coolant temps will be what they will be. And u want to maintain an 80C+ temp since Closed Loop Learn is enabled at that temp and above.
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5abivt (11-28-2018)
11-28-2018, 08:29 PM
#585
Safety Car
Thread Starter
11-28-2018, 08:41 PM
#586
Le Mans Master
Well I’ve given you the rationale for using the stock thermo, What tells u that 170 would be ideal? And I’m asking this not to open a can of worms but because others read this stuff and it helps to educate others.
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
11-29-2018, 05:45 AM
#587
Le Mans Master
poke a couple of holes in the stocker and be done
I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all
some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.
I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all
some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.
I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
11-29-2018, 05:47 AM
#588
Le Mans Master
that stocker rad doesn't look too bad at all. Normally if driven quite a bit they can get quite crusty
with the thick ron davis rads run better fans as the cooling stack gets thicker, the stock fans don't have the pull needed to keep the car cool with the ac on
the big rad cools great once you get her movin
with the thick ron davis rads run better fans as the cooling stack gets thicker, the stock fans don't have the pull needed to keep the car cool with the ac on
the big rad cools great once you get her movin
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
11-29-2018, 08:59 AM
#589
Le Mans Master
I’m using a Fluidyne on my ZR. I currently have a stock 180* thermo w two small holes drilled in it. Typical cruising temps are ~ 83-88C. Just fine to maintain ECM LEARN enabled. Sitting at idle and w both fans ON, I can keep temps in the low to mid 90s. W 4 holes in thermo, it was impossible to get engine to operating temps when ambient temps dropped much below 45F.
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
11-29-2018, 10:43 AM
#590
Drifting
Listen to Dom, he knows what he’s talking about. You don’t want to go below a 170. It has been proven that a standard 180 stat with 2 holes at 1/8” helps with hot running in hot conditions. There is no performance improvement short cut with a colder stat on these engines. It’s simply a function of how the programming was designed by GM. As has been pointed out the performance actually gets worse if you go too cold. If you want better performance out of your existing setup a custom tune is the only option.
H
H
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
11-29-2018, 01:03 PM
#591
Tech Contributor
Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM
Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM
Here is what I have found regarding LT5 Stant Thermostats.
1. You want to run the engine at coolant Temperatures of 180 deg as the design requirement...……...Running cooler Thermostats only lowers coolant temperatures when running coolant below 180 deg F (which is too cold for the LT5 engine). Once the 180 deg Thermostat and 160 deg Thermostat are fully open at 180 deg, Coolant flow is the same through each Thermostat with equal cooling as directly dependent on coolant flow.
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
3. The Stant Thermostat Opens a bit less with age......…...Marc suggests a 15% deterioration in Full opening area of the Thermostat over time as the Thermostat ages.
4. Lastly, The LT5 Water Pump Flow is proportional to Engine RPM. ......The LT5 Water Pump Flow rate is insufficient at RPMs less than 2,000 RPM for adequate Coolant flow at the higher Ambient Temperatures. Larger Aluminum Radiators DO compensate for inadequate Coolant Flow at low RPMs. Fans Turning on at 205 deg F do help considerably. And KEEP The Radiator, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser CLEAN.
Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.
See Post 120 - Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling
Here is what I have found regarding LT5 Stant Thermostats.
1. You want to run the engine at coolant Temperatures of 180 deg as the design requirement...……...Running cooler Thermostats only lowers coolant temperatures when running coolant below 180 deg F (which is too cold for the LT5 engine). Once the 180 deg Thermostat and 160 deg Thermostat are fully open at 180 deg, Coolant flow is the same through each Thermostat with equal cooling as directly dependent on coolant flow.
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
3. The Stant Thermostat Opens a bit less with age......…...Marc suggests a 15% deterioration in Full opening area of the Thermostat over time as the Thermostat ages.
4. Lastly, The LT5 Water Pump Flow is proportional to Engine RPM. ......The LT5 Water Pump Flow rate is insufficient at RPMs less than 2,000 RPM for adequate Coolant flow at the higher Ambient Temperatures. Larger Aluminum Radiators DO compensate for inadequate Coolant Flow at low RPMs. Fans Turning on at 205 deg F do help considerably. And KEEP The Radiator, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser CLEAN.
Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.
See Post 120 - Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling
Last edited by Dynomite; 11-29-2018 at 09:09 PM.
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
12-05-2018, 02:24 AM
#592
Safety Car
Thread Starter
poke a couple of holes in the stocker and be done
I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all
some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.
I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all
some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.
I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
Listen to Dom, he knows what he’s talking about. You don’t want to go below a 170. It has been proven that a standard 180 stat with 2 holes at 1/8” helps with hot running in hot conditions. There is no performance improvement short cut with a colder stat on these engines. It’s simply a function of how the programming was designed by GM. As has been pointed out the performance actually gets worse if you go too cold. If you want better performance out of your existing setup a custom tune is the only option.
H
H
12-25-2018, 08:27 PM
#593
Stereo
Merry Christmas!
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.
Last edited by PoprocksC4; 12-25-2018 at 08:29 PM.
12-27-2018, 09:43 PM
#594
Le Mans Master
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
I educated myself on this and believe item 2 above to be true. If anyone wants to buy a cooler thermostat let me know but I think they are a frisbee
put a better radiator and fans, or a nice clean stocker
more hp you run, plan on upgrading the cooling system a bit but the thermostat is not the place to look for hp
I found the LSV runs right around 174-184 on the highway, but still have some trouble with the lumpy cams and high compression staying cool with the ac on
the solution I believe may be the stronger spal fans from dewitts in place of the stockers and using a 195 on and 175 off fan strategy
well see how she goes once I bump the LSV up to around 12.5 to 1 which is about all she will go even with the lumpy cams
one thing for sure, the lt5 has a nice combustion chamber and seems to tolerate much more compression without much heartache in comparison to the LS engines
I educated myself on this and believe item 2 above to be true. If anyone wants to buy a cooler thermostat let me know but I think they are a frisbee
put a better radiator and fans, or a nice clean stocker
more hp you run, plan on upgrading the cooling system a bit but the thermostat is not the place to look for hp
I found the LSV runs right around 174-184 on the highway, but still have some trouble with the lumpy cams and high compression staying cool with the ac on
the solution I believe may be the stronger spal fans from dewitts in place of the stockers and using a 195 on and 175 off fan strategy
well see how she goes once I bump the LSV up to around 12.5 to 1 which is about all she will go even with the lumpy cams
one thing for sure, the lt5 has a nice combustion chamber and seems to tolerate much more compression without much heartache in comparison to the LS engines
01-02-2019, 01:01 PM
#595
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Merry Christmas!
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.
Regarding the radio trim yes mine did need trimming to fit because of the way the face opened up etc. I believe there are head units that fit that don’t require it but at the time this was the head unit I wanted in the size I wanted and trimming didn’t bother me.
Mods yours have the bose stereo? My 93 did and had the same setup as my 94 z.. 5.25 in the front and 6.5 in the rears. I wasn’t aware 6x9s came in the later years ?
01-06-2019, 06:14 PM
#596
Delco
No BOSE. 36k miles on a Base model with AC DELCO but WOW I've tried 2 other brands (Pioneer) 4x6 that still can't beat the original. I did replace the 6x9 with 650w Pioneer.
BTW. I'm purchasing the ZAINO kit for $96. Those guys should pay you for advertising. I've read the info on their site. Any tips for a first time user? Should i use a variable speed polisher or just apply by hand?
i almost did ceramic coat but a shop wanted $1k.
BTW. I'm purchasing the ZAINO kit for $96. Those guys should pay you for advertising. I've read the info on their site. Any tips for a first time user? Should i use a variable speed polisher or just apply by hand?
i almost did ceramic coat but a shop wanted $1k.
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5abivt (06-28-2019)
06-28-2019, 12:49 PM
#597
Safety Car
Thread Starter
No BOSE. 36k miles on a Base model with AC DELCO but WOW I've tried 2 other brands (Pioneer) 4x6 that still can't beat the original. I did replace the 6x9 with 650w Pioneer.
BTW. I'm purchasing the ZAINO kit for $96. Those guys should pay you for advertising. I've read the info on their site. Any tips for a first time user? Should i use a variable speed polisher or just apply by hand?
i almost did ceramic coat but a shop wanted $1k.
BTW. I'm purchasing the ZAINO kit for $96. Those guys should pay you for advertising. I've read the info on their site. Any tips for a first time user? Should i use a variable speed polisher or just apply by hand?
i almost did ceramic coat but a shop wanted $1k.
06-28-2019, 12:55 PM
#598
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Long overdue. Finally pretty settled in at the new place and finally getting some time to work on the Z and bring her home. Got the billet/poly engine mounts in from prothane.
Just starting with Jerry’s oil cooler lines to get started and then on to the cooling system.. among many other things !
Becoming a familiar sight !
oh and one other thing about the cooling system.. I wanted to do it but I already have too much apart and wanted to get the car running and home first. Plans are to build the motor and then for the cooling system I’m planning to go electric, universal t stat which allows for replacement options and likely 160/170. The plan for ecm will be aftermarket so I can dial the car in myself on the open roads here. So no worries about Oem pcm liking the hot temps
Just starting with Jerry’s oil cooler lines to get started and then on to the cooling system.. among many other things !
Becoming a familiar sight !
oh and one other thing about the cooling system.. I wanted to do it but I already have too much apart and wanted to get the car running and home first. Plans are to build the motor and then for the cooling system I’m planning to go electric, universal t stat which allows for replacement options and likely 160/170. The plan for ecm will be aftermarket so I can dial the car in myself on the open roads here. So no worries about Oem pcm liking the hot temps
06-28-2019, 01:51 PM
#599
Hi Mike, hello from calgary. I must’ve missed what happened, I did not know the Z was torn down at the moment. Where is the best place to follow your progress? On Instagram somewhere else or here?
I recently purchased one and I am sending it in for its out of province inspection in the coming days.
I recently purchased one and I am sending it in for its out of province inspection in the coming days.
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5abivt (07-04-2019)
