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Admiral 94 comes home. Finally ! :). Let the mods begin !!

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Admiral 94 comes home. Finally ! :). Let the mods begin !!

 
Old 10-10-2018, 01:25 PM
  #581  
-=Jeff=-
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Originally Posted by ZR1Bob View Post
Hi Jeff--
No, there is no lock on the door itself. (Below is a picture of the door closed). With a regular opener it pushes the door closed and holds it so you can't open it from the outside once closed. With a jackshaft opener you could arguably just lift it up when it is closed, so what they do is have a solenoid on the side that thrusts a 1/2" diameter steel locking pin into a hole in the track to prevent it from being opened. When you push a button or enter a code to open it, the pin slides back. Has worked fine for five years. --Bob
Yes, the steel pin is the locking mechanism for the jackshaft operator. I was curious if it was installed with the opener..

BTW, I work for Chamberlain (Liftmaster)

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Old 10-16-2018, 11:41 AM
  #582  
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Originally Posted by -=Jeff=- View Post
Yes, the steel pin is the locking mechanism for the jackshaft operator. I was curious if it was installed with the opener..

BTW, I work for Chamberlain (Liftmaster)

Yes Jeff it came with the Liftmaster 3800 and was installed by the garage door guy at the time.--Bob
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Old 10-24-2018, 11:14 AM
  #583  
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Managed a little time to get to the z on the weekend. Spent a good 20 mins just staring at the water pump to thermostat housing hose... Iím sure those that have done it know what I was thinking If anyone with an Lt1 thinks an otispark is hard they need to spend a few mins looking at an Lt5 engine bay and look for that hose lol ! Ok all kidding aside I realized right away that my pliers and small hands just canít get that done. And the first thing that did come to mind is the threads I vaguely recall about using surgical tools. Smart people I now know :clap: Ended up ordering a tool I forget itís name but it has a wire and itís a spring clamp tool. Will tackle that and then itís reassembly time for the hoses.

Thermostat appears oem. Still undecided which route to take with it as Iíd like a 160 but will decide that shortly. Pic of the rad and a the new rad with my large tube light behind it. I think Iíve seen far worse but itís pretty clogged up.



Oem


peak through the new one.. with bubble wrap still on. Didnít want to pull it out just yet as I didnít have time to put it in


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Old 10-24-2018, 01:31 PM
  #584  
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New one shows how dirty the factory one is!
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5abivt (11-28-2018)
Old 10-24-2018, 02:15 PM
  #585  
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Absolutely no reason to run a colder thermo. Coolant temps will be what they will be. And u want to maintain an 80C+ temp since Closed Loop Learn is enabled at that temp and above.
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:29 PM
  #586  
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso View Post
Absolutely no reason to run a colder thermo. Coolant temps will be what they will be. And u want to maintain an 80C+ temp since Closed Loop Learn is enabled at that temp and above.
Run a 170 on my mustang and the numbers are definitely better. Not much but it makes a difference. Don't want to open a can of worms on the subject but Ideally a 170 would be fine for me. At speed where the airflow with a more efficient rad should see temps lower than with the oem thermostat. Not much of an update but the ball will get rolling this weekend and next week. Hope to have the car home with me very soon and then ill finish up my garage too. Once I get her home theres plenty to tackle... and fortnite can take a backseat
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Old 11-28-2018, 09:41 PM
  #587  
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Well Iíve given you the rationale for using the stock thermo, What tells u that 170 would be ideal? And Iím asking this not to open a can of worms but because others read this stuff and it helps to educate others.
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:45 AM
  #588  
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poke a couple of holes in the stocker and be done

I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all

some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.

I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
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Old 11-29-2018, 06:47 AM
  #589  
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that stocker rad doesn't look too bad at all. Normally if driven quite a bit they can get quite crusty

with the thick ron davis rads run better fans as the cooling stack gets thicker, the stock fans don't have the pull needed to keep the car cool with the ac on

the big rad cools great once you get her movin
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5abivt (12-05-2018)
Old 11-29-2018, 09:59 AM
  #590  
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Iím using a Fluidyne on my ZR. I currently have a stock 180* thermo w two small holes drilled in it. Typical cruising temps are ~ 83-88C. Just fine to maintain ECM LEARN enabled. Sitting at idle and w both fans ON, I can keep temps in the low to mid 90s. W 4 holes in thermo, it was impossible to get engine to operating temps when ambient temps dropped much below 45F.
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Old 11-29-2018, 11:43 AM
  #591  
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Listen to Dom, he knows what he’s talking about. You don’t want to go below a 170. It has been proven that a standard 180 stat with 2 holes at 1/8” helps with hot running in hot conditions. There is no performance improvement short cut with a colder stat on these engines. It’s simply a function of how the programming was designed by GM. As has been pointed out the performance actually gets worse if you go too cold. If you want better performance out of your existing setup a custom tune is the only option.
H
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Old 11-29-2018, 02:03 PM
  #592  
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Default Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM

Cooler Thermostats, Thermostat Modifications and Engine RPM

Here is what I have found regarding LT5 Stant Thermostats.

1. You want to run the engine at coolant Temperatures of 180 deg as the design requirement...……...Running cooler Thermostats only lowers coolant temperatures when running coolant below 180 deg F (which is too cold for the LT5 engine). Once the 180 deg Thermostat and 160 deg Thermostat are fully open at 180 deg, Coolant flow is the same through each Thermostat with equal cooling as directly dependent on coolant flow.
2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...….A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.
3. The Stant Thermostat Opens a bit less with age......…...Marc suggests a 15% deterioration in Full opening area of the Thermostat over time as the Thermostat ages.
4. Lastly, The LT5 Water Pump Flow is proportional to Engine RPM. ......The LT5 Water Pump Flow rate is insufficient at RPMs less than 2,000 RPM for adequate Coolant flow at the higher Ambient Temperatures. Larger Aluminum Radiators DO compensate for inadequate Coolant Flow at low RPMs. Fans Turning on at 205 deg F do help considerably. And KEEP The Radiator, Oil Cooler, AC Condenser CLEAN.

Now compared to the normal aging of the thermostat of 15% over several years of use one would be much better off installing a NEW Stant Thermostat gaining 15% flow area as compared to drilling three 1/8 inch holes in an older Stant Thermostat only gaining 4.7% flow area.

See Post 120 - Thermostats, Fans, Radiators and Coolant Filling

Last edited by Dynomite; 11-29-2018 at 10:09 PM.
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Old 12-05-2018, 03:24 AM
  #593  
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Originally Posted by Dominic Sorresso View Post
Well Iíve given you the rationale for using the stock thermo, What tells u that 170 would be ideal? And Iím asking this not to open a can of worms but because others read this stuff and it helps to educate others.
Originally Posted by Rkreigh View Post
poke a couple of holes in the stocker and be done

I've had some trouble with engines running too cool and it's not good at all

some of the aftermarket thermostats are a bit flakey and high priced.

I've gone down that rabbit hole and ended up with a 170 that works ok finally
Originally Posted by ccmano View Post
Listen to Dom, he knows what heís talking about. You donít want to go below a 170. It has been proven that a standard 180 stat with 2 holes at 1/8Ē helps with hot running in hot conditions. There is no performance improvement short cut with a colder stat on these engines. Itís simply a function of how the programming was designed by GM. As has been pointed out the performance actually gets worse if you go too cold. If you want better performance out of your existing setup a custom tune is the only option.
H
The first issue really is availability of thermostats. there aren't any oem options available. Im sure ill see a difference with the new and better rad anyways. I plan to go electric asap I need to source an oem pump I can punch the impeller out of and plug first. that way I can eliminate the bypass and have all the coolant going from the motor to the rad and back etc. Ive been looking at thermostat housings and there are many different variations for other cars that are similar.. that can house a readily available thermostat in whatever temp is desired. The way I see it the engineers just bandaid modified the cooling system to work with the LT5 I think it deserves better.
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Old 12-25-2018, 09:27 PM
  #594  
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Default Stereo

Merry Christmas!
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.

Last edited by PoprocksC4; 12-25-2018 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 12-27-2018, 10:43 PM
  #595  
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2. Drilling Holes in Thermostats offers minimal (non effective) additional Coolant Flow...Ö.A 1/8 inch diameter hole in the flange will only offer additional flow area of .0123 square inches. Which one such hole will increase the total flow area by .016 or 1.6% (three 1/8 inch diameter holes would increase the flow area by 4.7%). This thinking does not address the change in coefficient of Discharge of such small holes. The Stants tested would be fully open with a flow area of approximately .785 square inches at 185 deg F.

I educated myself on this and believe item 2 above to be true. If anyone wants to buy a cooler thermostat let me know but I think they are a frisbee

put a better radiator and fans, or a nice clean stocker

more hp you run, plan on upgrading the cooling system a bit but the thermostat is not the place to look for hp

I found the LSV runs right around 174-184 on the highway, but still have some trouble with the lumpy cams and high compression staying cool with the ac on

the solution I believe may be the stronger spal fans from dewitts in place of the stockers and using a 195 on and 175 off fan strategy

well see how she goes once I bump the LSV up to around 12.5 to 1 which is about all she will go even with the lumpy cams

one thing for sure, the lt5 has a nice combustion chamber and seems to tolerate much more compression without much heartache in comparison to the LS engines
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Old 01-02-2019, 02:01 PM
  #596  
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Originally Posted by PoprocksC4 View Post
Merry Christmas!
did that stereo fit without trimming the console face panel?
they sell a 7 and a 6.9 inch unit.
I also am going to do the carbon fiber wrap while it's out. Looking at 3M. I want it to last.
my 93 is equipped with 6x9 rear and 4x6 front speakers. Its a base LT-1 auto.
thank you ! Hope you and everyone had a great Christmas I most definitely did !
Regarding the radio trim yes mine did need trimming to fit because of the way the face opened up etc. I believe there are head units that fit that donít require it but at the time this was the head unit I wanted in the size I wanted and trimming didnít bother me.
Mods yours have the bose stereo? My 93 did and had the same setup as my 94 z.. 5.25 in the front and 6.5 in the rears. I wasnít aware 6x9s came in the later years ?
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Old 01-06-2019, 07:14 PM
  #597  
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Default Delco

No BOSE. 36k miles on a Base model with AC DELCO but WOW I've tried 2 other brands (Pioneer) 4x6 that still can't beat the original. I did replace the 6x9 with 650w Pioneer.

BTW. I'm purchasing the ZAINO kit for $96. Those guys should pay you for advertising. I've read the info on their site. Any tips for a first time user? Should i use a variable speed polisher or just apply by hand?
i almost did ceramic coat but a shop wanted $1k.
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