A&A Corvette Performance:Forced Induction Q&A thread
I'm leaning towards an LS with your Procharger or Vortech kit plus T56 with 6th @ .6/.5? for my C3, but I need to take care of fundamnetals like the rear end first. (Mine's a 2.87 now).
Q: If going to LS w/6speed and A&A Kit for 600RWHP, what would your recommendation be for hi street performance? I was planning on 3.54. Is a little shorter a better trade-off point?
Any advice much appreciated.
A lot of guys will say that a 3.90 is too low but I disagree. A stock Z06 had approx the same overall ratio as the standard C5 trans would have with a 3.90 in the lower gears. That works just fine.
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A lot of guys will say that a 3.90 is too low but I disagree. A stock Z06 had approx the same overall ratio as the standard C5 trans would have with a 3.90 in the lower gears. That works just fine.
Q1: Do you have any suppliers you recommend for quality rebuilt T56s?
Q2: In combination with a lower compression LS motor and a P1SC like SC, would you have a preference between M12@3.42 (i.e., ZO6) and a MN6@3.90.
For those who are curious, this is what it looks like in a practical sense.
At 2000RPM w/ nnn/35-18 rear tire.
MN6 3.90 axle ratio
1st 2.66 15.0 mph
2nd 1.78 22.4 mph
3rd 1.30 30.7 mph
4th 1.00 39.9 mph
5th 0.74 53.8 mph
6th 0.50 79.7 mph
M12 3.42 axle ratio
1st 2.97 15.3 mph
2nd 2.07 22.0 mph
3rd 1.43 31.8 mph
4th 1.00 45.5 mph
5th 0.84 54.1 mph
6th 0.56 81.2 mph
Thanks again Andy.
Last edited by bisrael; Aug 11, 2005 at 08:10 PM.
I put the car on the dyno yesterday, here are the stats.
Mods are Andys forged shortblock, stock heads, stock cam, long tubes with cats, stock exhaust. D1SC blower, ATI twin intercooler setup, but with Andy's upgraded bracket.
Car hit 12lbs of boost at redline, btw.
Seems like the Ati intercoolers arnt cutting it, what do you think? Ambient temps were 95 degrees, intake temps around 150.
Comments? Notice it kinda lay down past 5k rpms. It kept pulling timing, probably runs much better on the street where there is more air-flow.
This was done on a dynapack, btw.
The green line shows the after-results.
Oz
Some people have suggested I may be getting valve float after 5k rpms, so Im getting the dual springs. After that, I guess I need to do the fmic?
i'm from saudia i got ur p1 procharger on my c5 .i did 11.1 sec. 1/4 mile time. THANKS ANDY I'M SO HAPPY

my plan now is goning to forged bottom than rise the boost.
i'll add ported heads and 224/228 cam 114 lsa (( need more power ))
some one told me the stock ls1 rods and blocks cant hold 600hp ??
what do ya advice me to do ?





How many lbs of boost are your forged shortblocks able to handle no problem and same question for rear wheel horsepower!!!!!!!!
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How many lbs of boost are your forged shortblocks able to handle no problem and same question for rear wheel horsepower!!!!!!!!






Someone (ANDY or yourself) PLEASE IM me with the approximate cost for this forged SHORT BLOCK!!!!!!
Someone (ANDY or yourself) PLEASE IM me with the approximate cost for this forged SHORT BLOCK!!!!!! 
BUT would you really want to drop down from a 427 to a 347? And if you do you might as well go to a stroker 383.





BUT would you really want to drop down from a 427 to a 347? And if you do you might as well go to a stroker 383.





BUT would you really want to drop down from a 427 to a 347? And if you do you might as well go to a stroker 383.
Hopefully my stock LS6 motor will last a long time as i don't plan on running the snot out of it with my future ATI D1SC set-up!!!!!!
Last edited by Mopar Jimmy; Aug 15, 2005 at 03:42 PM.
Also would a hand held tuner not be as good as a dyno tuning? Reliablity? I do plain on talk some road trips around FL.
Of the two ways to tune with the new procharger(handed held dvice if there is one or dyno) which would be better to spend my money on?
Thanks
Also would a hand held tuner not be as good as a dyno tuning? Reliablity? I do plain on talk some road trips around FL.
Of the two ways to tune with the new procharger(handed held dvice if there is one or dyno) which would be better to spend my money on?
Thanks
Until Andy gives his answer, I'll give you my opinion.
Q: Programmer vs. Dyno Tune
A: Well, they're Apples and Oranges really. My recommendatio would be that if you're the kind of guy who wants to regularly tweak/mess around with engine paramters like timing, shift points, etc., then the handheld programmer might be kind of fun. (You'll still need a starting point tune after adding things like F/I and big injectors, but I'm sure Andy has some off the shelf chips/programs too.) However, if you're not a tweaker and you know what you want out of your setup, then a Dyno Tune session is clearly the way to go. Many dynamics of your car's exact setup can be monitored in real time under load conditions and optimized far more scientifically than with a handheld unit.
Of course you can do both I think. Have a dyno tune to set a default program, then mess around with your programmer for fun and return to default as needed. However, this is out of the realm of my personal experience and I don't know how dangerous the handheld units are. (i.e., whether they protect you from doing stupdi/strange things or not)
I have handheld programmers. They're called screwdrivers and wrenches.
Rob.
MRC5: I would not try to save a few bucks and use the stock rods. I have actually seen them bend under detonation. Forged rods are not that expensive.
The stock block will hold up to 600 RWHP no problem. SHORT bursts of over 700 are probably OK too. Any detonation can split the sleeves, though.
pditty: Dyno tuning is ALWAYS preferable ove a handheld or mail order tune. We do a lot of street tuning first and then use the dyno to do the WOT stuff.
Boost Master: I should have more available in a week or two. I have my machinist working feverishly on my Vortech supercharger brackets. Once they are finalized, I'll have him get back on the air pump brackets.












