A&A Corvette Performance:Forced Induction Q&A thread
Remember, I distribute and install Vortech, Magnuson, Procharger, Racetronix fuel systems, Kenne Bell Boost A Pumps, Eagle cranks and rods, Comp Cams, Diamond Pistons, AFR heads, 8 rib pulley systems, Methanol injection kits, as well as a host of trick supercharger upgrades. I'll be glad to answer questions about any of these also.
see my dyno sheet at:
home.rochester.rr.com/blownvette
Almost done with this winters mods - your P1SC, alky system, racetronix, #42's, PLX WB02 and EVILive. Here are my questions:
1) What should I do with the PVC valve system?? Specifically, under boost, how do I not blow the seals and things, and under vacuum, not put oil into the intake, MAF etc.?? Should I install some sort of BOV or system for when I let off the gas at high boost situations??
2) Can I install the #42 injectors and drive to the dyno or try a couple of street tunes with EVILive?? Can you help me get close and help me with the EVILive tables??
Thanks,
Scott
The nipple on the throttle body that originally went to the valve cover is capped off. The kit comes with a 3/8" cap. Run the provided 3/8" hose down to the air filter. That will let the crankcase breath. In extreme cases, a catch can can be added in line.
The kit already has a BOV included.
I can send you an LS1 Edit file at N/C. You'll just have to transfer the IFR tables, PE tables, high octane spark and the 1514 airflow tables into EFI live. ( I'm assuming you have the tuning version) That should get you plenty close.
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Thanks. So the BOV installed in the blower line in front of the your pulley assy, will see vacuum from the T at the brake booster and release the built up pressure - cool. Do you have a P/N and vendor for the check valve?? What catch can do you recommend, as I don't want a chance for any oil to get into the intake through the air filter??
Please send me the file so I can try to convert to EVI.....I guess its OK then to change over to the 42# injectors with those changes installed??
Thanks for all your help,
Robi
Send me an email with your year, trans, mods etc. and I'll send you an LS1 edit file that will be close.
I have check valves too.
There are a bunch of different catch cans. I really don't have a favorite.
I'm looking at going with a Procharger kit. I was thinking about the P1 because i don't plan on going with anything super crazy. I do plan on going to LT's/X and a stall in the future but that's about it. What do you suggest? A P1 kit or a D1 kit? Thanks
Ron
(I definately would not suggest that with a stock short block)
A P1SC-1 can be spun faster,making better low end power, without making too much up top. I don't like the idea of underdiving a D1 so as not to kill the motor. You lose a lot of low end torque that way.
A P1SC-1 with a 4.10 pulley makes more boost with my system than a 3.85 pulley on a stock setup. A D1SC with a 4.75 pulley would probably make about the same total boost as a P1SC-1 with a 4.10. But the D1 with a 4.75 would not make the low end torque of the P1SC-1.
I have a bunch of forged short blocks running around with 600 RWHP on a P1SC. If you have aspirations of going beyond that, then a D1 is a better choice.
If you go with my setup, I'm available anytime for help with the install or any technical questions. My cell phone is always on!
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I am VERY interested in your P1SC-1 kit. I have never installed a S/C system before but I have been working on cars for years. This instal seems very manageable. Here are some Q's:
Besides the injectors the kit comes with there is nothing else I need to do to the fuel system?
I am anticipating buying a S/C in 2 month, give or take, and keeping it OFF the track the rest of this season. On the street with street tires how long could I realistically expect the stock non Z clutch to last. A day?
It has 33K on it, engages high but feels strong through the gears. Basically, I would like to cut costs up front - enjoy the extra power on the street this summer and wait until this coming winter to uprade everything else. How retarded am I being..?Just out of curiosity what BOV does this setup come with? I think I can see the top of a Vortech BOV in one of your online pics but I'm not positive.
Thanks, Rich
Last edited by DickieC.99; Apr 12, 2005 at 04:21 PM.
42# injectors do come with the system but you will need an in tank pump or a Boost A Pump. At your HP level, either one will do.
I wouldn't mess with the clutch until it gives you problems. It should still last a while. The tires should give up before the clutch does. Put it on drag radials, and then it's a different story.
It comes with a small Bosch valve for the $4995 price. The Vortech billet race valve or the even the "Mondo " valve are available options.
2) How much extra to upgrade the BOV to one of the Vortech units -Race, Mondo? Wouldn't the mondo be overkill for the base kit? Do you carry anything other than Vortech? I've had the "race valve" on a previous car and didn't care for it much. If you don't, how much would it be to just have the flange added if I decide to go with another BOV that uses the same 2 bolt flange, like a GReddy unit? Also where is the valve placed, on the inlet tube?
Thanks for your time Andy,
Rich
My intercoolers are made 20 at a time and Bell automatically starts on 20 more as soon as we get low. Intercoolers are rarely a problem.
The powdercoater sometimes hangs me up for a week, but I'm trying to have at least 30 sets of tubing done at a time so I don't run out. ( like I did today
)By the time you're ready, everything should be in stock and ready to ship quickly.
The Vortech BOV is $275, including a welded flange and exhaust filter. The Mondo is about $50 more than that. And your right, the Mondo is sort of overkill.
If you want any other kind of valve like a Tial, Greddy or whatever, just send me the mounting flange and I'll weld it on the tube and assemble the valve on the tube at no charge. I just did a Tial the other day. It sounded mean! I think I'll try to get a line on some of those.
The valve is placed on the first tube after it exits the blower. It seems to be a little quieter there because it's surrounded by the engine, fans, etc. It seems to react quicker being closer to the blower.
I've read dozens of great posts on your Procharger kits but, none about your Vortech kit. Is the Vortech kit a head unit with your hardwear like your Prochager kit?? The idea of the Vortech being quieter sounds good to me or are they both about the same??
Thank you
Docsz06: I'd run the Mondo with your F1R. Give me a call over the weekend. Let's go over your whole plan.
A D1 with methanol injection should be able to push 700 on pump gas, although an F1R will do it easier. I like the higher step up ratio in the F1R too.
You'll definately want an 8 rib setup at the 700 level. Everything else is just about the same between the two kits.
I may have a used F1R setup coming off shortly.
Give me a call when you get a chance and we'll figure out just what you need.

EDIT: We no longer use Procharger head units. We would recommend the T Trim or possibly YSI for this application.
Last edited by Andy@A&ACorvette; Feb 2, 2010 at 10:07 AM.
I have the Lingenfelter pumps in stock for $249. That will work just fine for you.
Send me the PCM and I'll flash it with a safe tune for $100. You may want to take it to a dyno tuning facility later to have it optimized, though.
Lately we have been able to ship in less than a week. Unfortunately, I just ran out of mandrel bent tubing. I hope to have some in the next day or two but I still have to cut it, bead roll the ends and then send it out for powdercoating. That could take over a week.
Procharger is also behind on production of head units. I have 12 on order. Hopefully that won't hang us up any further.
Sorry, I wish I had better news for you.
Thanks, Andy

EDIT: We no longer use Procharger head units. We have Vortech units in stock at all times.
Last edited by Andy@A&ACorvette; Feb 2, 2010 at 10:06 AM.












