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...If you want any other kind of valve like a Tial, Greddy or whatever, just send me the mounting flange and I'll weld it on the tube and assemble the valve on the tube at no charge. I just did a Tial the other day. It sounded mean!...
That sounds awesome Andy! I have a couple friends that have Tials. I think they sound badazz. I know you can order it with either a steel or aluminum flange. Which one should I get?
Hello I'm getting one of your brackets but I do not know which one to get the 6 rib or the 8 rib? I'm only planning on making 10 psi of boost on a stock bottom end for now! But in the future I would like to have more boost! And a forged bottom end! So what are you suggestions? How hard is it to change a 6 rib to a 8 rib or would it be better to do it now? What is the cost difference? What is max boost with a 6 rib before it starts slipping?
denscor: Just goi with the 6 rib. My newest bracket will suppoort 10# on a six rib, no problem. Much more than that would be better off with an 8 rib.
When you decide to upgrade you'll just have to buy the 8 rib pulley kit. The full setup is a little over $900. I'll ugrade the bracket itself at no charge when you do.
Thanks.
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Last time we spoke I mentioned getting my car down there for you to tune on your NEW dyno.. What I forgot to mention is that I'm currently using EFIlive to tweak here and there and will most likely be running in SD w/ a 2bar by the time I get to you. I'd like to be able to retain programming under EFI and am wondering if that's what you would/could use.
I'm getting ready to order your P1SC kit and have a few questions.
1. What else do I need besides the base kit?
2. I don't want to blow the engine quite yet, what would be a safe boot 5psi? and what pulley size? 4.50? I also have headers, which I could put the stock exhaust back on if necessary for safe power levels.
Hi Andy, I'm going to be changing over to your new bracket system and was wondering if the belt size is going to be the same? Currently I'm running with the MMS bracket Assembly.
magdc5: I use LS1 Edit for tuning. Haven't messed with the 2 bar at all.
Watch22: All you'll need is a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump or an in tank pump to finish the installation. I can flash your PCM with a safe tune for $100.
I use a 4.10 pulley on the LS1 and 4.25 on the LS6. With a consevative tune, that will be nice and safe. Leave the headesr on, that's free horsepower.
jbkblown: No my belt will be shorter. I'll get you the correct belt size, depending on your pulley size.
Last edited by Andy@A&ACorvette; May 7, 2005 at 03:46 PM.
The short block is $3500 including any cam you choose, double roller timing chain, oil pump, forged pistons and rods. I have them on the shelf already built.
Call me for installation prices. The install would require a complete removal and reinstallation of your Vortech supercharger system as well as an engine R&R. What about heads? Are you upgrading or leaving them stock? A lot of variables.
Hey Andy
could you tell us how much rwhp a 04 zo6 and take fi. What i mean is where is the cut off point say for the stock fuel system with a boost a pump. The stock pistions , clutch , rear , trans etc. I have plans to up grade my clutch and rear when i go fi. The car will be used for drag racing with dr or dot slick. thanks Peter
The average Z06 will make about 560 RWHP with just my blower system and a set of headers. The fuel system is upgraded with just a Kenne Bell Boost A Pump.
That's about the limit on the fuel system without a major overhaul.
While I've seen the stock pistons take more than this, I think this is also just about on the edge.
At this level, you'll want hardened output shafts and an upgraded clutch for track use. For a street application, I'd leave the clutch and rear alone until you actually need them. The tires will give up before the clutch.
Hope this helps.
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