Well, if removing the PCV drastically changed the MAP values he could be in VE cells that were rarely seen before. This could cause af ratio issues, but I doubt it would cause to run as bad as he described.

Nick, the values are in microseconds and represent the maximum time limit between firing points. The times generally go down as rpm goes up.

Your best bet is to go back and set it to the stock values that came in the car. There are many different settings that can disable misfire detection. Just make sure they are all at the stock settings.

 

quick i THINK i MIGHT have found (or hope ) the problem. with the ptk they provide two brackets per bank to relo the coil packs. it just moves it up the valve cover a bit. anyway my 1/2 lines that run off the valve cover run underneath coil packs. the way i was able to achieve was i spaced the bracket so that htere would be room for the lines. the spacers i used are nylon. the brackets themselves are powdercoaded.
it may be possible that the packs wernt getting a good ground. dont ground not work as well when they get hot?

 

Copper losses or resistance generally increases with temperature, but I don’t think that’s your problem. But if you get enough thermal expansion to distort contact patch/surface area then that may cause an issue. Cleanup suspect areas and see if it helps.

Good luck
Mike

 

My grandfather was laughing at me trying to get to #1&3 plugs out. He is a retired or maybe not retired mechanic for 50 years. He came walking over and slid the extension right up over the shock tower from the wheel well and I put the spark plug socket on the end and slipped it over the plug...no problemo.

Hey my arms are only 17.5" on the hang and 18" flexed and I can just get them up there...do you have pup cats???

 

yeah to pup cats

 

well drove after installing new plugs, felt great up to 6.5 psi but above that it starts to pop. i made sure that all ground surfaces are all good.
at least it drives ok off boost where as before it would barely drive.
i gotta think now that its the wires, i did inspect all of them and appeared to be good but who knows with all the heat that they get.

 

Next logical step would be to replace the wires.

Also verify that your injector wiring is all good. That seems to be a very common problem area.

 

I know that Pro Turbo now carrys the same wires as Kevins car.

 

ill do that, yeah i did look over injectors. i actually did a cylinder balancing test. not really sure what it does though i assume it has to do w/injectors?

 

I noticed that with the pup cats I can't reach the foward plugs, with them off I can. I have an 02 mid pipe that I was using, it makes it easier too slide your arms up in the space. I think I have longer arms then most people my height though...(at least that is what my old sparring partner used to say). Anway if you are still having problems you can drop the mid pipe and then it is not even a problem.

Last time I was swapping mid pipes, I noticed that it was very easy to reach up and grab the #1 and 3 plugs without the midpipe in place....and I did this laying on my back on a creeper...it should be even simpler when using a lift.

I think you will find #3 to be screwed up....let us know....with the 118* boot end I burned all the way through on #3 so that there was no wire...yet it still didn't show a consistant misfire on #3 when I had the Tech II hooked up to it. It wasn't until I took the car out on the street with the Tech II, under load (pulling 3rd or 4th...lugging) that it regestered a misfire on the bank with the broken wire.

Before that on the dyno...I had the 3 broken wires...well one was completely separated in the boot and the other two were cracked acrosse the top of the metal plug end (where it bent 90* at in the boot.

The best part about all the plug wire woes is that I found the best wires to use. I thought about getting all the hi performance wires and GM truck coils..but when I was over on LS1tech...Mighty Mouse got over 900/900 rwhp/tq using stock LS1 coils and GM wires.

So I explored all of the GM wires and found the ones I and PTK are currently using (somebody esle too )...only because the Parts Guy...who was actually an awnry old fart, was willing to let me take 1 out of a bunch of different boxes of plug wires, and let me go check them out. The ones I am using are 10.25", 7mm, and have 90* boot ends that accept the metal (stock) insulators that go over the regular plug wires...so you can take the metal insulators off of your stock wires and use them with the new ones.

 

[IMG][/IMG] whats the yr make and model?

thanks

 

sorry to hear about the problems nick, let me know if you need a hand. I would actually start tracing back all of the coil wires and make sure you didn't cut one anywhere, or check to see if it's worn though.

You already checked all of the injectors, correct??? could be a bad injector....

If you think it's spark, it could also be spark blowout. What are your plugs gapped at? just throwing out ideas....something that wouldn't throw a code. I'm sure it's been said or you already know this, but most misfire codes are turned off for a big cam.

One more thing, if you have a meter or need to borrow one, I'll test out those spark plug wires for you. It's not uncommon for them to go bad.

 

steve if you wanna come over cool. is there a way to test wires with ohm? i installed new plugs so... gapped at .32
cannot be blowin out not even crankin it.


ill call ya

 

changed all plugs checked[IMG][/IMG] plug wires and connections to wires.
thinkin that maybe the wires are bad even though there is no visable damage.

 

[IMG][/IMG]


changed all plugs checked[IMG][/IMG] plug wires and connections to wires.
thinkin that maybe the wires are bad even though there is no visable damage.

 

They sure can. That is why you need a meter to check them. I had the #7 grounding out / on and off.......meter told the story fast. good luck

 

I won't be able to do it tonight, but I'll give you a call when I'm out of work tomorrow if you haven't already addressed the problem. When wires go bad, 99% of the time you can't visually see anything. All you check with the meter is the amount of resistance going through, and that is enough to tell you whether or not the wire is bad.

 

steve you'da shiznat.

dean just bought that software for his car, scs? he got their latest version that uses usb and it has four chips.

 

well back from vacation and had drive the car! i installed those truck wire before i left but really didnt have time to get on it but did tonight, 16psi!!!.
i am pretty sure that the old wires just might have been pretty crappy for some time. the car is pulling so hard its rediculous.
i running referenced now and duty cycle is down. new intank bosch 420 seems to working very nice.
tomorrow night ill be pushing boost another 2 psi.

 

You're a mad man Nick!!!

Glad to hear you're back in town and have the car running right again! Please keep me posted on your progress.