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i havent received my truck wires yet so car isnt running properly.
my a/r are jumping all over the place normal then real lean ect ect ect
i wouldnt think that bad wire would cause lean but it does.
i need my frickin wires ill havem tuesday got the bosch 420 pump installed and its quieter then LPE!
all is there now to lean it out and run more psi.
Any cylinder missfire is cause a lean reading. Even if running way to rich and it missfires it will show lean. 02 sensors are measuring oxygen, hence the "02". When a cylinder missfires it sends the unburned fuel and oxygen (which was not consumed by "fire" out the exhaust valve.
Not saying it won't cause a code, but I find it interesting that my car has not thrown codes, nor did my 97 when I had a cracked plug or a fried wire. But the Tech II certainly did read it...pointed me right to the cylinders where I found the bad wires...twice now. Once when they were cracked..then after I fixed them..the one that was too close to my header (used 118* MSD boot ends)..now its back to factory wires with 90* boot ends.
Hey Nick...don't forget to put the Metal covers from your old stock wires onto the new ones...they except them perfectly.
I had my passenger side header off yesterday (inserting some helicoils) and checked all of my plug wires....all were perfect.
Hope you get the bugs worked out soon so you can get back on track. Looking forward to seeing what your car will do at the track, and how well the Bosche 420lph fuel pump works....if it works for you...it will probably be my next mod.
That's exactly what my car was doing when I was spraying. I ended up finding out that it was my #7 spark plug had melted off all the way down to the threads and then scorged my block from a chunk of the thread that had actually broken off. Good times I wish mine would have been just a wire! I need to get boosted soon and get rid of this N20
Not saying it won't cause a code, but I find it interesting that my car has not thrown codes, nor did my 97 when I had a cracked plug or a fried wire. But the Tech II certainly did read it...pointed me right to the cylinders where I found the bad wires...twice now. Once when they were cracked..then after I fixed them..the one that was too close to my header (used 118* MSD boot ends)..now its back to factory wires with 90* boot ends.
Hey Nick...don't forget to put the Metal covers from your old stock wires onto the new ones...they except them perfectly.
I had my passenger side header off yesterday (inserting some helicoils) and checked all of my plug wires....all were perfect.
Hope you get the bugs worked out soon so you can get back on track. Looking forward to seeing what your car will do at the track, and how well the Bosche 420lph fuel pump works....if it works for you...it will probably be my next mod.
kevin thats whats weird, scanner not showing missfire.
i have those metal ends waiting on work bench.
Any cylinder missfire is cause a lean reading. Even if running way to rich and it missfires it will show lean. 02 sensors are measuring oxygen, hence the "02". When a cylinder missfires it sends the unburned fuel and oxygen (which was not consumed by "fire" out the exhaust valve.
kevin thats whats weird, scanner not showing missfire.
i have those metal ends waiting on work bench.
In every case that I have had a misfire, the Tech II has only been able to read it while driving...Real Time Data (RTD). If I plugged it in while idling it has not registered a misfire with burnt wires or cracked plugs (in my case on both my 97 & 01)...it had to be under a load...like high rpm shifting or lugging a high gear (4th).
There is only one time that I can remember the Tech II indicating a misfire on my car, and that was with a broken valve spring...but that effected the idle...in fact the car would barely idle.
The tech II and the misfire codes use the exact same data. The difference is that the codes only get set when a certain number of potential misfire events occur in a given time period (I think it is 60 seconds). Using a Tech II or a good scanner (like EFI-Live), you can see the raw potential misfire counts. HP Tuners most likely provides the same data.
Misfire detection is no easy task (especially on a manual tranny car). There are many things that can suddenly change the crank speed that are non ignition related.
The system is designed to detect misfires over time, not instantly.
Most tuners also tweak the misfire detection thresholds in their base tunes. This will totally mess with the misfire detection and it typically makes it non operative at idle.
The tech II and the misfire codes use the exact same data. The difference is that the codes only get set when a certain number of potential misfire events occur in a given time period (I think it is 60 seconds). Using a Tech II or a good scanner (like EFI-Live), you can see the raw potential misfire counts. HP Tuners most likely provides the same data.
Misfire detection is no easy task (especially on a manual tranny car). There are many things that can suddenly change the crank speed that are non ignition related.
The system is designed to detect misfires over time, not instantly.
Most tuners also tweak the misfire detection thresholds in their base tunes. This will totally mess with the misfire detection and it typically makes it non operative at idle.
Tell me about it...misfire detection...I couldn't do it without the Tech II and having to pull off every plug and wire...the cracked plug I had during my header install on my 97...the first, last, and only time I ever did a header install with the plugs in...was almost impossible to see. The Tech II read a strong misfire on that bank...but only while driving around...it the car was randomly backfiring too.
So when tuners adjust the misfire detection in LS1edit or HPtuners, etc. (I have never screwed around with LS1edit..don't have time to mess with it). Is this the same value that you change, to get rid of the SES light associated with a Cam change (sometimes)?????
So when tuners adjust the misfire detection in LS1edit or HPtuners, etc. (I have never screwed around with LS1edit..don't have time to mess with it). Is this the same value that you change, to get rid of the SES light associated with a Cam change (sometimes)?????
Well thanks for shedding light and teaching me something new for the day..probably won't be the only thing..but this one I definetly care about.
No wonder the Tech II won't read misfires at idle...I have almost always had a cam in a C5..and always had that misfire code adjusted, killed, turned off, whatever. So that explains why it would never register on the TEch II at idle.
The metal sheilds are a must if you want any longevity to the wires. Found that out early enough thanks to EFILive's scanner. Relocating the coils similar to Dan's setup is also a nice way to keep wire's anywhere near a hot surface and keeps things nice and clean looking up top.
Most tuners also tweak the misfire detection thresholds in their base tunes. This will totally mess with the misfire detection and it typically makes it non operative at idle.
Hey don't give away our PN...it took me 1 hour at the dealership trying out wires to find the GM ones that would work. All the wires (5.3-6.0l, 9.5"-10.25") the guys on LS1tech were talking about...don't work as good.
Yes I run double heat socks "kool socks" on each wire to cover the entire length. I also took those Turbo Blankets and stuffed them (1 per side) between the headers and the wires...this shields the wires and the coil packs as an added insurance. I think the Kool Sox covering the whole wire is probalby good enough...but I ain't chancing it.
Next time I hit the dyno...I need to be firing on all 8 cylinders when we go to tune.
Last edited by Shinobi'sZ; Oct 24, 2005 at 03:27 PM.
kevin sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet!
those wires make is soooooooooo much easier!
the ends are longer and stiffer it makes much easier to install. i installed socks, metal ends and stuffed three front driver side socks.
those wires are far superior to origanal ones. car is idle nicely, wish weather was nicer
well got the 420 bosch the reg hooked up and fresh plugs and wires. sounds like its time to turn it up. i wonder how high i can go on 8.4:1 alchy and 94 gas? ill find out as soon as weather breaks.
They not better than the usual GM wires so to speak. They are merely GM wires that fit the coil pack relocation on our vehicles much better than the custom wires we were using. They were made for the GM 8 liter (big block)..so they are longer with a real solid 90* boot end that accepts the stock metal heat shields that come with the stock GM wires. They are 7mm silicone and have a lifetime warranty too against defects (not burns). Perfect length for the coil pack relocation.
Nick and I were previously using custom cut to fit wires....we both had some problems with them. So these should do the trick.
the car is out of control!
i am starting to think those old wires were hammered some time ago.
need to get back on the dyno as wires, plugs, big pump and referenced regulator will allow for 18 to 20 psi!