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Hey guys, im looking at relocating my battery to the right side cargo compartment in my coupe. What size battery box have you all used, and what size cable and routing works best? I was thinking of getting a summmit plastic box w/ vent and carpeting it?
Hey guys, im looking at relocating my battery to the right side cargo compartment in my coupe. What size battery box have you all used, and what size cable and routing works best? I was thinking of getting a summmit plastic box w/ vent and carpeting it?
I'm Putting the battery in the passenger side rear compartment also. I got a 500 amp gel battery that is a tight fit. The problem with this location is that there is no convient structural support, just the fiber glass pocket. I'm going to try and build an Aluminum box for the battery and with angle, support it to the side and rear frame rails. The last thing you want is a 30lb battery floating around the cabin during a catastrophic event.
use 1-0 welding cable for the leads to the front starter. There is room to route through the wheel well and under the door frame.
The LPE example in the center pocket has adequate access to structural framing, however in this location the CD player has to be relocated. LPE instuctions for battery relocation
My first attempt at the Battery box:
My first attempt at the battery support
Cable is routed through wheel well to rocker panel.
Battery working in passenger compartment
Getting the Lead out to save weight!
Last edited by auctiondepot; Feb 8, 2006 at 05:39 PM.
wait where are you guys rumming your cables and where did you get the wire? i was thingking 0 gague monster cable but that stuff is pricy,
my mods to consider that might limit wire placement is STS TT so my inner side skirts have charge pipes in them and im mini tubbing my car next month, so that conflicts with some cable placement too, i have the rear carpert out and im putting the battery in the passenger rear box, any install pictures
Jersey, Where did you find the instructions, this was all i could find? Im not going to pay 300 something for this kit, im going to use either welders cables or monstor cables.
I saw a link some time ago on LS1tech about putting it in the passenger side well in a box and carpeting it. I would gladly mount it in the center storage compartment, but i use that cargo space quite frequently whereas i almost never use the two smaller compartments. I was thinking of running my cable through the passenger side rocker moulding?
The new C6 Z06 has the battery in the right storage compartment also.
Could a GM parts dealer make available a kit from the parts used in the C6 Z06? This may not be possible but it would sure be nice getting a OEM kit.
Its a good idea but this car is my daily driver and I dont think That battery is good for every day use is it? Im more moving it to make room in my engine bay for future mods aw well as putting more of the weight over the rear whels for traction
Guys -
You should all be using NHRA approved Vented & sealed boxes, along with welders cable & bracing across the top to prevent the battery from coming out on a rollover. The last thing you want are fumes in the cockpit or the battery rolling around in the cockpit during a bad accident. I for one decided to use the center rear trunk area to keep the weight balanced as much as possible. I got the welding cable from Grainger. You can easily make brackets that are attached to the tunk cover mounting points. The standard battery mounting hardware basically just goes through the fiberglass floor in the trunk, and could easily pull out!
Basically this weight will sit behind the rear wheels - HP cars want to tourque right rear wheel down more than left rear - so my opinion is to put it dead center and not offset - driver sits in front of rear wheels - GM engineers feed all the gas to the drivers side tank so they must have allowed for that weight along with drivers in their "balance design". I "tune" my rear leaf one turn down on right more than left. My batt. has been in the center for one year (120 1/4 mile runs) and I have not had a launch problem (even with the front wheels up) Thats my story and I'm stickin to it!!!!!
Its a good idea but this car is my daily driver and I dont think That battery is good for every day use is it? Im more moving it to make room in my engine bay for future mods aw well as putting more of the weight over the rear whels for traction
I ordered this battery from ATI (not to be confused with the S/C head unit manufacturer ) and LOVE it. I was reluctant to buy it because it specifically states that it is a "racing/starter" battery. But I went ahead and ordered it anyway. It is in fact much lighter (I didn't bother to actually weigh it myself) then a stock Z06 battery but it is also CRAZY small, people think it's a motorcycle battery! I've used it in all kinds of conditions including short 10 minute trips at night (head lights on, music playing) where I turn it off, start again, and so on with NO problems. This battery just works like any other battery, just much lighter, smaller, and no threat of leaking.
I spoke to Maxwell church at ATI (248) 848-9200 x 131 and his customer service is SECOND to NONE. I say this, not because of the battery I bought, because frankly no customer service was necessary in that case, but the Sparco Pro 2000 seat with custom seat mount/rails that allow fore and aft movement that I purchased from ATI also was a PERFECT fit. I had Maxwell measuring all kinds of interior dimensions and his willingness sold me.
- Max
Last edited by MadMaxZ06; Jan 30, 2006 at 11:42 PM.
My battery may be on it's way out, I may be ordering one shortly. But I am curious about one thing. What if I wanted to yank my belt for a pass, would that have enough reserve to get my down the track and back to the pits? Thanks for the info.
The lightweight battery in this kit should get you down the track, presuming it is fully charged up and you don't spend much time idling in line waiting to run. You would also be wise to put it back on a charger when you returned to the pits (10~20amps max charge).
Additionally, turn off or disable any unnecessary electrical loads, like daytime running lamps (5 amps). The cooling fans consume the most current at idle (22 amps on fan high), but without a belt, the water pump will not run, and the fans won't matter so you can pull the fuse when you pull the belt.
I have never ran a car with the belt off so no idea how hot it will get....