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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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Default STS Costs?

I'm considering putting one of these kits on my C5 and I just have a few questions...so I figured I'd ask the experts!
1.What mods should I have going into this...if any?
2.Where did you get it done at?
3.How much did you pay?

Thanks everyone for all your help!
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Old Apr 17, 2006 | 10:43 PM
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I just had mine strapped on a stock LS1 2000 MN6.

You will need an upgraded air bridge (do a search)
Blow off valve
Possibly a clutch. (I'm just running my stock clutch until it gives)

My total with install, tuning, air bridge, and quad exhaust was just over $9,300.00
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 06:25 AM
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Don't forget fuel pressure and boost gauges.

Also a wideband setup.

All this adds about $500

Tommy
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 07:05 AM
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hell a good wide band alone is around $500
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:20 AM
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LC-1 WB02 is $200.

The question is how much the STS kit is with upgraded hardware (second gate or BOV or whatever it needs, plus air bridge, upgraded oil pumps, and long tube headers).

Mark
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 08:22 AM
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I would definitely recommend the Innovate XD-1 and LC-1 combo. Mine is excellent.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mdhmi
LC-1 WB02 is $200.

The question is how much the STS kit is with upgraded hardware (second gate or BOV or whatever it needs, plus air bridge, upgraded oil pumps, and long tube headers).

Mark
With a base setup.

Second Wastegate is optional and definately not needed at six PSI. Say $250 installed.

Thick air bridge will be $169.

Oil pump is actually a really good effective unit. Break in period on the high setting is loud, but does deminish over time. Flip on the switch goes to low setting, which all that is needed.

I would only do long tubes if you already had them or were doing a 402 or bigger.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by mdhmi
LC-1 WB02 is $200.

The question is how much the STS kit is with upgraded hardware (second gate or BOV or whatever it needs, plus air bridge, upgraded oil pumps, and long tube headers).

Mark
Just one thing to add. No long tube headers (it is a waste of $$s on an STS car)

I would say fuel pump and/or pump booster is a must have + some dyno tuning.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 01:48 PM
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Guys,
How much gauge fluctuation do you see in your widebank setup while the car is running?

Thanks
Jim
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Hammer
Guys,
How much gauge fluctuation do you see in your widebank setup while the car is running?

Thanks
Jim
This is gonna depend on your tune. When I am just riding around I see 14.5-14.7. When I step on it, it'll go down to 11.2 and stay in that neighborhood. I'm running a little rich and had it tuned that way. Might lean it out some but I really see no need to at this point.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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Originally Posted by QuickSilver2002
Just one thing to add. No long tube headers (it is a waste of $$s on an STS car)

I would say fuel pump and/or pump booster is a must have + some dyno tuning.
I agree with the above
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajundude
This is gonna depend on your tune. When I am just riding around I see 14.5-14.7. When I step on it, it'll go down to 11.2 and stay in that neighborhood. I'm running a little rich and had it tuned that way. Might lean it out some but I really see no need to at this point.
Mine is working in a similar range.

Thanks
jim
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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a little on the safe/rich side is A-OK with me too, Cajun
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Cajundude
This is gonna depend on your tune. When I am just riding around I see 14.5-14.7. When I step on it, it'll go down to 11.2 and stay in that neighborhood. I'm running a little rich and had it tuned that way. Might lean it out some but I really see no need to at this point.
It should oscillate above and below 14.7 while just driving around in closed loop. If not, something is probably not calibrated that well. It also depends on how the WB controller is setup, some are configurable on how many samples they avg before putting out a new value.

Once on the throttle and out of closed loop it should be more steady. It should also be pretty steady when you first start the car… When the gauge starts to oscillate is when it goes into closed loop.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 02:57 PM
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Ok I'm still a little confused! I'll clarify a little...
1.How much $money$ would I need to get the kit (installation if needed)and all the upgrades that I would need to make it run well as a daily driver. (Looking for reliability here)

2. Where did you get it installed at? Or could it be done yourself?

3. What tuning was required? Do you even have your car tuned at all for the kit?

I understand what the kit is and what it does and the horsies it makes. I'm not looking for "well if you get longtubes it will give u 5 extra ponies!) I'm looking for the required extras that i will have to buy. A.K.A blow off valves, etc. Also some brands would be helpful! Like instead of 2 BOVs, 2 Greddy whatever BOVs!

Thanks again everyone!
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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STS kit, includes single wastegate.
BOV from STS
Gauges
Install & dyno tune.

You can get the entire thing done for a little under $10k.

Jim
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by VetteC501
Ok I'm still a little confused! I'll clarify a little...
1.How much $money$ would I need to get the kit (installation if needed)and all the upgrades that I would need to make it run well as a daily driver. (Looking for reliability here)

2. Where did you get it installed at? Or could it be done yourself?

3. What tuning was required? Do you even have your car tuned at all for the kit?

I understand what the kit is and what it does and the horsies it makes. I'm not looking for "well if you get longtubes it will give u 5 extra ponies!) I'm looking for the required extras that i will have to buy. A.K.A blow off valves, etc. Also some brands would be helpful! Like instead of 2 BOVs, 2 Greddy whatever BOVs!

Thanks again everyone!



For the record,
STS did not recommend headers when I asked them directly.
They said they saw little or no gains with them.

I think that VetteC501 has the right idea with just looking for the basic parts that will keep the STOCK car running reliably with ONLY the STS kit.
From what I have read here,
it would probably be a good idea to upgrade your valve springs and your clutch when you have the STS installed.
IMHO it's better to do it all at once,
then have to deal with those issues down the road.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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I'd also like to know why you need all the wideband tuning apparatus if you have the car professionally tuned?
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 03:24 PM
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$9-$12k depending.

Turbo kit
Blow-off valve
Gauges/Gauge pod
Upgraded Fuel System
Airbridge
Tuning
Clutch
Install

Being fast is MUCH MORE than just making a lot of power though. Don't just start throwing parts on your car. Come up with some goals and formulate a plan. You should do ALL your bolt-ons before you even think about a turbo (intake, throttle body, exhuast including headers, etc). Regardless of what your plan for your car is bolt-ons should be first. Next you should build your car to handle the power. You don't want to spend $10-$12k on a turbo and grenade your drivetrain. The stock clutch is very weak and inadaquate. Hell, even the Z06 clutch isn't great, and won't hold much more than stock hp for long. After you got your drivetrain ready to handle the power, you might want to think about getting it to the ground with suspension mods. After you've got your bolt-ons and set your car up to handle 450+ rwhp, THEN you add the power. It would royally suck if you just dropped $10k to put a turbo on your stock car and the first time out racing you break something costing thousands more. Do it once, do it right.
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Old Apr 18, 2006 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by EricR-TX
$9-$12k depending.

Turbo kit
Blow-off valve
Gauges/Gauge pod
Upgraded Fuel System
Airbridge
Tuning
Clutch
Install

Being fast is MUCH MORE than just making a lot of power though. Don't just start throwing parts on your car. Come up with some goals and formulate a plan. You should do ALL your bolt-ons before you even think about a turbo (intake, throttle body, exhuast including headers, etc). Regardless of what your plan for your car is bolt-ons should be first. Next you should build your car to handle the power. You don't want to spend $10-$12k on a turbo and grenade your drivetrain. The stock clutch is very weak and inadaquate. Hell, even the Z06 clutch isn't great, and won't hold much more than stock hp for long. After you got your drivetrain ready to handle the power, you might want to think about getting it to the ground with suspension mods. After you've got your bolt-ons and set your car up to handle 450+ rwhp, THEN you add the power. It would royally suck if you just dropped $10k to put a turbo on your stock car and the first time out racing you break something costing thousands more. Do it once, do it right.
I understand what your saying here, but I've heard that the STS kit shouldn't require as much tuning as your talking about. I'm not going to be mashing the throttle from stoplight to stoplight, just when I need to step on the gas I have a little extra over stock. Trust me, I know well enough to know that I can't make a car all motor. I have other various drivetrain and suspension parts in the mail already, I'm not asking what I need to make the total package, I already have an idea or two there, I'm just asking what I would need to make the kit run reliably and safe.
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