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In reading many posts in this section, it appears that overheating is a big problem with supercharged cars. So I am trying to narrow down some solutions. If you will, please answer these questions. I think everyone will benefit from this.
1. Which supercharger system are you using (not only the name but the type, centrifugal, roots type and where the intercooler(s) are located)?
2. What have you done to try and solve the problem, relocate the intercooler(s), change radiators, thermostats and when fans turn on and off, something like the “Big Mouth”, water wetter or whatever?
3. Which change worked and which ones didn’t and to what extent?
I don’t want to draw any premature conclusions, but I have a feeling that certain designs just are not working well. Please provide as much information as possible based on your actual experiences.
ECS Novi 2K. Trans and oil coolers. Stock radiator. I live in Hell (Dallas) Texas. No over heating yet!! Not even close. I use Red Line Water Wetter, prestone water pump lube and water. Also using RP51 oil and BG MOA. 160 degree stat. Fans come on at 178 and 188. I have a habit of cleaning the radiator, coolers and FMIC with water and a blow gun every few weeks. Although I don't drive my car every day and the day's I have driven it have been almost 100 degrees.
ECS Paxton centrifugal also, front mounted intercooler, stock everything including radiator. Fans reprogrammed, 160 thermostat, water wetter. No problems yet even with the air on.
All changes were done at once, so I don't know what did what.
Outside air temp hasn't been over 90 yet, and it only sees full throttle for maximum 15 seconds at a time with a bit of time in between. Don't know what would happen if I road raced or did repeated back-to-back pulls.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jun 29, 2006 at 08:07 AM.
I live in Phoenix......
I have a TTi Stage X with a front mount intercooler.
Upgrades are just a Ron Davis and 160 thermo. Fans come on earlier.
Moved the plastic deflector so it routes air to the radiator and not the intercooler. Got a Halltech carbonfiber license plate screen, and opened the fog light shrouds (covered with z06 screens) to allow air to get to the intercooler.
I live in NC--hot and humid summers. I have the stock ATI kit with twins in the brake ducts. I have the stock radiator with a setrab tranny cooler taking up a good chunk of its surface area, but I have never had a problem with overheating. I have a 175 thermo, but the fan is programmed to come on as well.
The procharger has been on my car since late 2002 and was one of the first kits available before A&A/ECS had to do alot of R&D on their kits.
I have the ATI procharger with the twins in the fenders with a 178* stat. Also have functional ZO6 screens with part of the rear hood seal removed.
I used to live in Mich. where the stock rad and the single ATI 2 speed fan worked fine. Last year I moved to Fl. but before I left I bought a DeWhitts rad. knowing I was going to need it down here. Sure enough last year I saw temps soar to 235-240*.
So I kept the twins and lowered the rad and installed the DeWhitts and reinstalled the factory dual fans and kept a 50/50 mix.
This year in cooler weather (70-80*) running down the road at 80+ mph eng temp was 178*. Now in 95-101* ambient I see 194* @ 80+ mph and it drops to 184* in the city, all temps are with the AC on all the time.
I have an LS2 402 with A&A Vortech T-trim. Evans water pump, and A&A oversized radiator. Coolant temps are always between 185 and 200, no matter what the weather conditions, or if the A/C is on or off.
Oil temps on the other hand are higher than normal. Frwy cruising they settle in at 230-239. When under heavier loads 250-255, so far. I'm about to install the new Dewitts combination EOC/radiator. I've heard they are good for 20 degrees cooler on average oil temps, which should be just fine for my purposes. I've also read that there is a small oil pressure drop associated with this setup. With my current pressures, I believe this will not be an issue and leave the pressure range within normal paramaters. After the install and some drive time in various weather conditions I'll get back to you.
Well...running a Maggie and recently with the AC on temps have been hitting 230 but drop down...when I turn it off....I have cleaned the fins etc....gonna buy a dryer lint brush and see if I can clean them better but it seems like when I clean them I get alot of stuff out and they look good so I dunno...considering Water Wetter next...
Novi 2000 here, Stock rad, 160 Stat. Had some overheating last week after going to a show and sucked up some durt, It hit 205 for the first time, I got home and used an air hose and blasted it out and it looked like a bird nest that fell out from the front blocking the air, That was not the Novi fault. I will do this every couple of weeks to keep clean air coming in. Now it runs at 178 to 188 like normal on even the real hot days. I had the Maggie before and it would got hot on the real hot days 220 to 230 and the power would go down to, The Novi does not seem to have any problem keeping cool, Good luck.
First of all none of the responses indicate how much rwhp their eng. are making. So, I have to assume everyone has a pretty much stock eng. In my case there have been a lot of modifications. As all of you know, more horsepower means more heat. Eng. temps have been up to 230, and that is with a Dewits rad. Fans have been reprogramed. 180 stat being used. 641rwhp. Have talked with Evans water pump co. and they did not think their pump would make a difference. Have a stage 2 ati setup with twin intercoolers located behind the brake duct openings.Tranny (RPM) is also running hot, so I am about to install a max cool B&M cooler. Also, I will be opening up the fog light openings. Also, I have ordered SPAL fans. If none of the afore mentioned changes work about the only other thing I know of that might help is alcohol injection, but I really dont know about this yet. Has anyone tried this? If so please explain whether or not it worked and what is involved.
Here in South Texas it is hot with humidty, a double wammy like anyone on the gulf coast has to deal with. I have a stock displacement, however it is forged with an A&A DS1C, DeWitts radiator, modified the install of the FMIC/radiator/condenser. My mechanic made a custom bracket to lower everything and space out the FMIC and the others by atleast 1" between each one. I also opened up the fog light area and installed Z06 screens.
Last month at the end of a 200+ cruise in 100 degree heat we got stuck on the freeway because of an accident. It was bumper to bumper and I had 3 miles before out exit. This took approx 20 minutes to get to the exit and with the wife the AC was on high and my temps climbed to 215 water and 225 oil so I believe I am ok. During our high speed crusing when we were averaging over 100+ I was in the 190's and when 80 and under 180's so no problems for me.
But I installed one more mod the heavy tax on the License plate screen to get more cool air on my setup under cruise and it dropped my temps at high speed's to the 180's and have not been caught bad traffic yet and normal stop and go I still see 190's with the AC on of course. Here is a shot of my front setup
TTi Stage 1 with Ron Davis radiator. Lots of traffic on 15 coming home at 5:00 pm. Outside temp was 108 degrees. Coolant temps were between 185 degrees and 206 degrees. About forty minutes of stop and go city driving last week with outside temps at 116 degrees my highest coolant reading was 216 degrees.
I am running a procharger p1sc with twin intercoolers mounted in front corners. Also have fitted a tiger shark nose that does change the air flow
Originally removed teh front radiator air cowling and lower skirts as the cowling simply does not fit with the plumbing required for the twin intercoolers
temps were 230-250 in town and on highway with ambients in the 90's. The lower the ambient the lower the engine temp. With a/c turned off it reduced temp by 15 degrees
Fitted 160 degree thermostat.........no change.
refitted cowling and skirts (after cutteing and modifying) temps on hiway now 210-220 but still > 230 in city traffic. with a/s on.
Added water wetter and reduced another 5 degrees or so.
I beleive that this kit is fundamentally flawed as the single large fan and flat K&N air filter fit onto the rear of teh radiator and prevent air from freely flowing through the radiator.
I am looking to change this.
Keep you posted
Here in South Texas it is hot with humidty, a double wammy like anyone on the gulf coast has to deal with. I have a stock displacement, however it is forged with an A&A DS1C, DeWitts radiator, modified the install of the FMIC/radiator/condenser. My mechanic made a custom bracket to lower everything and space out the FMIC and the others by atleast 1" between each one. I also opened up the fog light area and installed Z06 screens.
Last month at the end of a 200+ cruise in 100 degree heat we got stuck on the freeway because of an accident. It was bumper to bumper and I had 3 miles before out exit. This took approx 20 minutes to get to the exit and with the wife the AC was on high and my temps climbed to 215 water and 225 oil so I believe I am ok. During our high speed crusing when we were averaging over 100+ I was in the 190's and when 80 and under 180's so no problems for me.
But I installed one more mod the heavy tax on the License plate screen to get more cool air on my setup under cruise and it dropped my temps at high speed's to the 180's and have not been caught bad traffic yet and normal stop and go I still see 190's with the AC on of course. Here is a shot of my front setup
Do you have any pictures of your bracket/lowered FMIC & condenser coil. Sounds like a good idea.I also live in Texas near the coast with extreme humidity & temperatures. Any help would be appreciated.
I am running a procharger p1sc with twin intercoolers mounted in front corners. Also have fitted a tiger shark nose that does change the air flow
Originally removed teh front radiator air cowling and lower skirts as the cowling simply does not fit with the plumbing required for the twin intercoolers
temps were 230-250 in town and on highway with ambients in the 90's. The lower the ambient the lower the engine temp. With a/c turned off it reduced temp by 15 degrees
Fitted 160 degree thermostat.........no change.
refitted cowling and skirts (after cutteing and modifying) temps on hiway now 210-220 but still > 230 in city traffic. with a/s on.
Added water wetter and reduced another 5 degrees or so.
I beleive that this kit is fundamentally flawed as the single large fan and flat K&N air filter fit onto the rear of teh radiator and prevent air from freely flowing through the radiator.
I am looking to change this.
Keep you posted
Im currently installing the twin intercoolers and the shroud fits perfect... Although not one piece of ATI's piping is unmodified. It works, you just have to take ur time.
Would really like to see how you have routed the outlet side of the intercollers up to the airbridge., my email is ajburt2151@aol.com if you could send a pic or two.
Thanks Andy
In reading many posts in this section, it appears that overheating is a big problem with supercharged cars. So I am trying to narrow down some solutions. If you will, please answer these questions. I think everyone will benefit from this.
1. Which supercharger system are you using (not only the name but the type, centrifugal, roots type and where the intercooler(s) are located)?
2. What have you done to try and solve the problem, relocate the intercooler(s), change radiators, thermostats and when fans turn on and off, something like the “Big Mouth”, water wetter or whatever?
3. Which change worked and which ones didn’t and to what extent?
I don’t want to draw any premature conclusions, but I have a feeling that certain designs just are not working well. Please provide as much information as possible based on your actual experiences. thanks,
Clayton from Las Vegas
Hi Clayton, I had severe overheating problems with the intercooler laying right on top of the radiator..... read my posts in the F/i and C5 Tech sections..... my solution was to junk the existing A&A product and do a complete redesign.. Anyone wanting detailed information on my new design, email me.
Hi Clayton, I had severe overheating problems with the intercooler laying right on top of the radiator..... read my posts in the F/i and C5 Tech sections..... my solution was to junk the existing A&A product and do a complete redesign.. Anyone wanting detailed information on my new design, email me.
A&A is not the only vendor that the IC sits on top of the radiator, so what you are really saying is that any system out there regardless of vendor if it sits were it blocks the radiator then they are the same as the one you junked. I do not see issues like the one of yours and I am running in the mid 700 rwhp and can spin up my setup harder if I wanted 800. So with a 346 and meth I am ok. I have emailed you as I do want to go to a bigger cube setup this fall when I will go for the upgrades again.