Overheating problems Poll and solutions
Originally Posted by peter pan
A&A is not the only vendor that the IC sits on top of the radiator, so what you are really saying is that any system out there regardless of vendor if it sits were it blocks the radiator then they are the same as the one you junked. I do not see issues like the one of yours and I am running in the mid 700 rwhp and can spin up my setup harder if I wanted 800. So with a 346 and meth I am ok. I have emailed you as I do want to go to a bigger cube setup this fall when I will go for the upgrades again.
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Originally Posted by gingerls1girl
First of all none of the responses indicate how much rwhp their eng. are making. So, I have to assume everyone has a pretty much stock eng.
well since this is in the FI section you might want to reassess..
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Can guys without FI chine in ???? ...... or only
DH
DH
Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.
BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.
BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.
Originally Posted by pewter99
go ahead...any thing that may help...

DH
Originally Posted by 1 Nasty Z
Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.
BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.

BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.

Originally Posted by 1 Nasty Z
Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.


Originally Posted by HIGHRPM
Good analysis....your reasoning is why I relocated my radiator back to the more vertical position. The shroud that separates the intercooler and radiator forms a wedge shape compartment in front of the radiator. As captured air (from under the car) moves up the wedge it accelerates and hits an angled section of the shroud. This redirects the incoming pressurized air towards the radiator. This part of the design is responsible for the very low coolant temps and efficiency. Yesterday, ambient temps were around 75 degrees.... my coolant temp cruizing on the expressway was 154.... on a recent 104 degree day in Chatsworth, even hard town driving kept coolant under 189 degrees
Originally Posted by NemesisC5
How was your radiator positioned at a more vertical angle & still maintain clearances? Was it custom built or mounted differently. I have the standard angled setup.
Guys -
First I actually race my C5 a lot./760 RWHP
Best 9.65 @ 140MPH, 1.36 60'
C5-R Block(No water jackets between cyl.)/F-1R @ 16.5 lbs./Also street driven/93 oct.
1. Griffen rad. w/16" single fan on a shroud.
2. 20% dex/80% distilled water w/Purple Ice.
3. Mezzure elec. water pump.(55 GPM)/ 170 stat with hole
4. No Ac core
5. Tiger Shark front end. (Air Dam shortened 1" for 1320 lights)
6. FLP Oil Cooler & Tranny Cooler.
7. ECS After Cooler & Bracket setup.
8. Remote fan switch for staging lane heat control.
9. TB Bypass.
Results: Street about 203 @ 90 deg. Amb., at the end of 1320 185 ECT/195 IAT @ 6600 RPM/141MPH.(At 85 deg. Amb.)
JR
(PS If you want real HP you will have to deal with the HEAT!!! No way around it!!)
First I actually race my C5 a lot./760 RWHP
Best 9.65 @ 140MPH, 1.36 60'
C5-R Block(No water jackets between cyl.)/F-1R @ 16.5 lbs./Also street driven/93 oct.
1. Griffen rad. w/16" single fan on a shroud.
2. 20% dex/80% distilled water w/Purple Ice.
3. Mezzure elec. water pump.(55 GPM)/ 170 stat with hole
4. No Ac core
5. Tiger Shark front end. (Air Dam shortened 1" for 1320 lights)
6. FLP Oil Cooler & Tranny Cooler.
7. ECS After Cooler & Bracket setup.
8. Remote fan switch for staging lane heat control.
9. TB Bypass.
Results: Street about 203 @ 90 deg. Amb., at the end of 1320 185 ECT/195 IAT @ 6600 RPM/141MPH.(At 85 deg. Amb.)
JR
(PS If you want real HP you will have to deal with the HEAT!!! No way around it!!)
Last edited by JR-CRUZN-C5; Jul 5, 2006 at 11:59 AM.
Exactly my thoughts, I searched for a "short" radiator but aside from mortgaging my house for a custom unit, couldnt find anything.
Originally Posted by NemesisC5
Great idea about shorter radiator & condenser. Maybe one day we will see these components incorporated into supercharger kits. In addition to that, a smaller intercooler exposed to direct cool airflow would be more efficient at lowering IAT's. 
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Went to Home Depot today and spent less than $5 on a lint brush....long skinny brush to clean lint from your dryer vent...just ask for one in the washer /dryer section....works great for reaching down between the 2 pieces....
Last edited by pewter99; Jul 5, 2006 at 11:11 PM.
Originally Posted by pewter99
Went to Home Depot today and spent less than $5 on a lint brush....long skinny brush to clean lint from your dryer vent...just ask for one in the washer /dryer section....works great for reaching down between the 2 pieces....


DH
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drove the car today....the cleaning seemed to help a bit..temps down another 10 degrees...
Originally Posted by pewter99
drove the car today....the cleaning seemed to help a bit..temps down another 10 degrees...
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Originally Posted by peter pan
Great to hear this, how much crap were you able to clean out

actually I was quite surprised..I thought it was pretty clean before but this brush removed stuff that I couldn't really see...my neighbor was
He can't stay away when I open the hood...he was like...WTH you doing now
Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Can guys without FI chine in ???? ...... or only
DH
DH


















