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Overheating problems Poll and solutions

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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 04:31 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by peter pan
A&A is not the only vendor that the IC sits on top of the radiator, so what you are really saying is that any system out there regardless of vendor if it sits were it blocks the radiator then they are the same as the one you junked. I do not see issues like the one of yours and I am running in the mid 700 rwhp and can spin up my setup harder if I wanted 800. So with a 346 and meth I am ok. I have emailed you as I do want to go to a bigger cube setup this fall when I will go for the upgrades again.
Alky forgives alot of overheating problems.... If you want to go with bigger cubes I'll give you all the results of my R&D. There is a possibility that I might develop a retro fit kit and a complete package based on my new design. Separating and insolating air, water and oil cooling processes is vital for cool operation. Last evening the abmbient air temp was 76 degrees....my coolant stayed around 162 in town..... and late in the evening it dropped to 154! Let me know if I can be of help.
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 05:10 PM
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Can guys without FI chine in ???? ...... or only


DH
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by gingerls1girl
First of all none of the responses indicate how much rwhp their eng. are making. So, I have to assume everyone has a pretty much stock eng.

well since this is in the FI section you might want to reassess..
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Old Jul 3, 2006 | 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Can guys without FI chine in ???? ...... or only


DH
go ahead...any thing that may help...
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 12:03 AM
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Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.
BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
go ahead...any thing that may help...
Well you guys might want to differentiate who has MN6/12 vs A4 with torque converters. And if you are running separate EOC or TOC. As this will contribute to over all temps......


DH
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 1 Nasty Z
Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.
BTW: I have not had any issues with overheating with my A@A Vortec kit as of yet. I also have a smaller HP setup.
Great idea about shorter radiator & condenser. Maybe one day we will see these components incorporated into supercharger kits. In addition to that, a smaller intercooler exposed to direct cool airflow would be more efficient at lowering IAT's.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 1 Nasty Z
Food for thought. Another problem I see with these kits is that the effective area is reduced by about 10-15% since the surface area is laid flatter than original. I also think that having the radiator laid flatter you lose air flow thru the fins. Think of it this way as an extreme example. If the radiator was laid completely flat no air would travel thru it. What would make a big improvement would be to have a custom radiator and condenser made which would be about 2" shorter and of course twice the thickness like the dewitts and ect. This would get the radiator lower for the intake pipes to clear and allow the radiator to stand more up right for improved airflow. In addition have the fins angled down so that the air would travel straight thru.
Good analysis....your reasoning is why I relocated my radiator back to the more vertical position. The shroud that separates the intercooler and radiator forms a wedge shape compartment in front of the radiator. As captured air (from under the car) moves up the wedge it accelerates and hits an angled section of the shroud. This redirects the incoming pressurized air towards the radiator. This part of the design is responsible for the very low coolant temps and efficiency. Yesterday, ambient temps were around 75 degrees.... my coolant temp cruizing on the expressway was 154.... on a recent 104 degree day in Chatsworth, even hard town driving kept coolant under 189 degrees
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HIGHRPM
Good analysis....your reasoning is why I relocated my radiator back to the more vertical position. The shroud that separates the intercooler and radiator forms a wedge shape compartment in front of the radiator. As captured air (from under the car) moves up the wedge it accelerates and hits an angled section of the shroud. This redirects the incoming pressurized air towards the radiator. This part of the design is responsible for the very low coolant temps and efficiency. Yesterday, ambient temps were around 75 degrees.... my coolant temp cruizing on the expressway was 154.... on a recent 104 degree day in Chatsworth, even hard town driving kept coolant under 189 degrees
How was your radiator positioned at a more vertical angle & still maintain clearances? Was it custom built or mounted differently. I have the standard angled setup.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NemesisC5
How was your radiator positioned at a more vertical angle & still maintain clearances? Was it custom built or mounted differently. I have the standard angled setup.
Because of the large 4 inch intake pipe in the A&A kit, it required a layed down radiator for clearance. My intake pipe is only 3 inches in diameter and follows the lines of the shroud...this gives an extra inch and one half clearance to move the radiator to a more vertical position. The radiator sits a little lower than before.... I redesigned the mounting bracketry.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:50 AM
  #31  
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Guys -
First I actually race my C5 a lot./760 RWHP
Best 9.65 @ 140MPH, 1.36 60'
C5-R Block(No water jackets between cyl.)/F-1R @ 16.5 lbs./Also street driven/93 oct.
1. Griffen rad. w/16" single fan on a shroud.
2. 20% dex/80% distilled water w/Purple Ice.
3. Mezzure elec. water pump.(55 GPM)/ 170 stat with hole
4. No Ac core
5. Tiger Shark front end. (Air Dam shortened 1" for 1320 lights)
6. FLP Oil Cooler & Tranny Cooler.
7. ECS After Cooler & Bracket setup.
8. Remote fan switch for staging lane heat control.
9. TB Bypass.
Results: Street about 203 @ 90 deg. Amb., at the end of 1320 185 ECT/195 IAT @ 6600 RPM/141MPH.(At 85 deg. Amb.)

JR

(PS If you want real HP you will have to deal with the HEAT!!! No way around it!!)

Last edited by JR-CRUZN-C5; Jul 5, 2006 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #32  
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Simple solution (you might want to add it to the poll)....move to Alaska.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:56 AM
  #33  
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Exactly my thoughts, I searched for a "short" radiator but aside from mortgaging my house for a custom unit, couldnt find anything.

Originally Posted by NemesisC5
Great idea about shorter radiator & condenser. Maybe one day we will see these components incorporated into supercharger kits. In addition to that, a smaller intercooler exposed to direct cool airflow would be more efficient at lowering IAT's.
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Old Jul 5, 2006 | 11:07 PM
  #34  
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Went to Home Depot today and spent less than $5 on a lint brush....long skinny brush to clean lint from your dryer vent...just ask for one in the washer /dryer section....works great for reaching down between the 2 pieces....


Last edited by pewter99; Jul 5, 2006 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 12:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
Went to Home Depot today and spent less than $5 on a lint brush....long skinny brush to clean lint from your dryer vent...just ask for one in the washer /dryer section....works great for reaching down between the 2 pieces....

Putting this on my shoping list


DH
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 04:10 PM
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drove the car today....the cleaning seemed to help a bit..temps down another 10 degrees...
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pewter99
drove the car today....the cleaning seemed to help a bit..temps down another 10 degrees...
Great to hear this, how much crap were you able to clean out
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 10:18 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by peter pan
Great to hear this, how much crap were you able to clean out

actually I was quite surprised..I thought it was pretty clean before but this brush removed stuff that I couldn't really see...my neighbor was He can't stay away when I open the hood...he was like...WTH you doing now
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Can guys without FI chine in ???? ...... or only


DH
Chiming: A&A built 440 CID pushing 590RWHP. Coolant temps in Woodland Hills 110 degree heat, 180 degrees...Oil 215!
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Old Jul 6, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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ECS P1-SC centrifugal. No overheating. Ever.
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