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Iam installing a ECS Paxton S/C and snow performance Methanol Injection. My question is do I need Solenoid valve to keep from gravity feeding. I'm using the windshield washer fluid tank as my methanol reservoir and it will be higher then the nozzle.
It depends on where your methanol comes from (ww fluid tank?) and where you mount your nozzles. I had an eye opening experience about 8 months ago when I pulled some plumbing out of my car and a ton of methanol gushed out. The car was sitting for about a week and the methanol was slowly drip, drip, dripping into the airbridge, down the intercooler, and finding its way to the lowest point in the plumbing.
Fortunately for me it wasn't dripping straight into the intake manifold and motor.
Besides just gravity, I've seen methanol come out just based on engine vacuum and the syphon effect. I would highly recommend either a one way check valve (which is what I did) or a solenoid to prevent gravity and syphoning from leaving methanol in your intake or plumbing.
Is meth needed to run a SC properly? I don't plan on doing much racing other than maybe going to the 1/4 mile track once or twice per year. I currently put out close to 400 RWHP on my car I am having a Procharger installed with a conservative tune and low boost (in an effort to keep the motor together). I anticipate being somewhere at or near the 500 RWHP mark. My tuner didn't mention the meth to me so I'm just wondering if it is necessary for my application. On the cooling front I did but a DeWitts radiator in an effort to keep temps down.
If it was me I would buy the proven ECS meth kit and be done with it. They work great on our Vettes, I have not had any issues at all in 4500 miles with my setup and I put a check valvue on my system prior to ECS including this in there kit to prevent any problems
Meth will ensure extra fuel is in the intake system under boost as with a blower one knock and boom she usually goes and meth is added insurance for my forged setup
I started this project about 9 months ago. Went to a local shop and bought what the guy recommended witch was a vortech S/C , gages, headers and the snow kit. I gave him the money upfront to buy the parts the only problem was 3 weeks later he went out of business and I had no parts and no money, about $8500. Four months later I finally got my money back for the S/C and the rest of my parts arrived . I did some research and decided to go with the ECS but this time I was going to buy it and pay someone to install it. Went to a local shop with a good reputation and was told it would be a six week wait. Fourteen weeks later the guy still cant get to my car so I decided if this was going to get done in this decade I would have to do it myself. Started last weekend and I'm about half way done. I think in the end I will enjoy it more plus I saved some money by doing it myself.
My Snow kit came with a check valve that fits in the line just after the pump. It doesn't stop a minor amount of meth from being drawn into the intake from the line that runs from the pump to the intake. Creates just a minor drop in idle rpms and then its fine. As far as sc, I wouldn't have one without meth. I changed the plugs after 6000 miles and the insulators were still white with no buildup on the electrodes whatsoever. I swear by it, its cheap insurance.
I added a inline shut off valve right at the nozzle,,after my car set for a long time, I found a small puddle of meth in the intake,,,
I also added the check valve..
when I shut off my car in the garage, i alway pop th ehood to vent heat and check out things..
I shut the valve. I know no issues will occur
when i get ready to take it out, I alway check it over for leaks and check the oil and open the valve. I have too much time and money in mine to be hasty.. and I aint rich enough to do it over just yet.
the check valve works fine, I wanted added insurance
Snow sells a solenoid that will wire in to open under boost in a few milliseconds and close when you're not in boost. It's easy to wire in and good insurance against siphoning. Check out their website.
Snow sells a solenoid that will wire in to open under boost in a few milliseconds and close when you're not in boost. It's easy to wire in and good insurance against siphoning. Check out their website.
Snow sells a solenoid that will wire in to open under boost in a few milliseconds and close when you're not in boost. It's easy to wire in and good insurance against siphoning. Check out their website.
Roger
Solenoid adds one more place for an issue to arise. If it fails to open.. you can get into issues. Just like if it doesnt snap shut. Those running nitrous can tell you all about solenoids.. and methanol can be some nasty stuff.
Check valves must be run after filtering, if not debris can get trapped in the seat areas. As it can on a solenoid seat.
I cant help on a competitors product.. just pointing out the KISS is the best principle whenever possible.
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