I was trying to spray a little 100 wet shot through a TB plate on the dyno and it kept spraying n2o and air. I purged it for a good while till solid n20 was spraying out. Then I would do the run and the n2o would start cutting in and out spraying n20 and then air. So I purged it again an had air come out then solid n2o. Try spraying it again with the same results. This is with all brand new parts and a fresh full bottle and good pressure. Anyone had this happen before? I was told its possible that when they filled the bottle they got to much air in it. It was filled with a filling station and an air compressor.

 

How do you know air was coming out?

 

I really thought this was going to be a post about another forum member who could lift the front tires off the ground from a roll ...

 

 

Correct me if i'm wrong <i'm having this same problem with a 150shot, i'll be going through the kit tomorrow to look for leaks or other problems>

You probably had the bottle filled at a shop that uses a pump. The best way you can fill a bottle is simply by pressureized transfer. ie...Chill your nitrous bottle, and heat your big bottle. And allow the pressure from the big bottle to fill the smaller bottle. This should help to eliminate air in the bottle.

This is how i've come to understand it, and as i said i'm going through the same thing at this time.

Any other explanations?


Chris

 

Your wrong..... Just plain wrong.

 

For the guy above, I would presume heat is getting into your NOS line before and after your run. I would test the line in different points by touch before and after.

OT. When you are making as much torque as I am presently making on my LOW boost setting and your car is as light and well balanced as mine, then talk. I would be happy to race with either of you at L.V. Motor Speed Way road course during SEMA. I might even give you a few psi. advantage.

 

I was told the exact same thing by one of my friends who goes through several bottles a weekend said he has seen this before. Im going to just try another bottle next week.
I had the bottle cool when it filled but I know he used the air compressor on the filling station also.

 

I know when I used to run nitrous they always either asked me to freeze the bottle the night before or they would keep it overnight and freeze it. I never had a problem with air in the line. If you brought it to him and it was not ice cold he would not fill it, he said that he could not do it properly if it was not ice cold. Don't know if that helps or not.

 

With a proper pump setup, the bottle doesn't need to be cold. That only matters if you're trying to fill a bottle without a nitrous pump.
I was asking how he concluded air was coming out, because there's really no way for air to get in the bottle (bottle pressure is always higher than ambient) assuming that it's filled properly and never open to the air, and no way for air to get into the line unless the pressure is gone.
Brent might be right about a pressure drop or heat causing nitrous gas instead of liquid to come out of the line.
Another possibility: Did you have the bottle positioned correctly so that the syphon tube was submerged?

 

When purginh I would get nitrious and then air and when I sprayed the same thing was happening, I wasnt getting a solid flow of nitrious. Everything is installed and mounted correctly.

 

I'm inclined to think more along the lines of WarpFactor. If it purges fine.. and you're standing still, then craps out when under way, it sounds like something is happening inside your bottle. If mounting and positioning hasn't changed, is it possible the place that last filled it screwed up the tube inside the bottle?
Another thought... do you have a filter inline that may be clogging? or worse yet, no filter and crap got in the tank?

 

This Has Happened To Me And Other Friends Of Mine !!
We Would Have Fresh Nitrous Fill - Purged The System And The Nitrous Sometimes Would Cut In And Out Or Would Not Give Full Power !!!!!!
I Also Found That There Was Air Coming Out Of The Nitrous Line. And Yes The Bottle Was Positioned Correctly.
This Has Happened Atleast 10 Times Between Myself And My Friends....... The Only Thing I Could Come Up With Is The Fill Person Screwed Something Up Or Wanted Us To Lose Our Street Battles

 

How did you determine air was coming out of the line and not just "no nitrous"?

 

The hp and a/f were going up and down. Also when done I would purge it again to check and would not get a steady stream of nitrous, it would be air, then nitrious again.

 

Dang. This is a stumper. The only thing my little engineer egghead can think of is a "try".
If possible, chill your current tank with the nitrous in it. Then bring is back up to room temp, then heat with your regular bottle warmer. Don't ramp up the heat too fast, it won't give the air a chance to move. The air should seperate from the nitrous inside the tank. It seems really far fetched, but then again, so does your problem.

 

One way to get air in a bottle is if the person who fills it doesn't purge the lines. All the lines should be hooked up, pressure applied from the donor bottle with the valve on your bottle still closed, and then connecting line should be purged by loosening the fitting at your bottle slightly until nitrous escapes, then re-tightening it.
It's still hard to see it causing a problem though. I'd think the air would just float on top of the nitrous, nowhere near the base of the syphon tube.
Is it possible the syphon tube is damaged or not tight, allowing gas in at the top?

Oh, I've heard of one more thing that can be a problem. They've recently changed some bulk bottles from having no siphon tube to having one. It used to be that you'd have them upside down when discharging, but some of the newer ones need to be right side up. If you're filling bottles by freezing, there's no way you'll get a fill unless the bulk bottle is positioned to dispense liquid.
Weighing the bottle before and after the fill is a good way of telling whether you got liquid or just a bunch of gas. Bottles should always be filled by weight. Pressure means nothing.
Maybe you guys had an idiot nitrous supplier? There was a vendor at a local drag strip a few years back who should have known what he was doing. He sold many kinds of race gas and nitrous. People kept wondering why their nitrous systems weren't working, and some people who were new to nitrous thought the whole "nitrous power thing" must be a myth!
A buddy of mine noticed that the guys bulk bottle was upside down, and told him about it. People's nitrous systems started working again!

While I'm ranting, another myth is that nitrous has a shelf life, or goes bad in the bottle. If a filler tells you that you need to empty the bottle before filling, he either doesn't know what he is doing, or is trying to rip you off by selling you the full 10 pounds instead of whatever you need to top off.
The only reason a bottle needs to be emptied is if they're required to do a pressure test, what's in the bottle has been contaminated by a previous bad fill, or you need release the pressure to service something on the bottle.

 

1.) blow down and refill your bottle...I used to refill my own with a refill station. I was very careful/**** about filling bottles, some guys are not. WEIGH your bottle dead empty, and then full....down to the oz. Before the fill, check the bottle neck and blow down valve for leaks. I had leaks in both before.

2.) if that doesn't work, check lines for leaks...easiest way is to open bottle and listen for leaks. Then, you can disconnect the plate, and hit the nitrous for 10 seconds, and then weigh the bottle again. NX can give you an idea of how much (pound/oz) is used for 10 seconds at a 100 shot or whatever. Then you know if your system is operating correctly.

3.) try it at a track and see how it feels.

SDB/SRG