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Are people breaking diffs, and other drivetrain parts when running slicks only or even on street tires? My tranny is upgraded with viper parts and I have a new rear in the car (stock 3.42). Also a Textrilia. I won't be running slicks till I upgrade the rear in the future. Should I be ok for now if I use street tires and drag radials once in a while...Should be in the 800 RWHP range on 10PSI...
Are people breaking diffs, and other drivetrain parts when running slicks only or even on street tires?
I think that's like asking if it hurts more to get shot with a BB gun or an AK47.
If you're seriously going to be running around at 800 rwhp you're going to break things, period. Add a differential strut brace - the purpose of that is to protect the differential when you take out the trans.
The important thing is to make sure you don't wheel hop. The crappier the tire the more likely you are to hop.. Keep that in mind.
Are people breaking diffs, and other drivetrain parts when running slicks only or even on street tires? My tranny is upgraded with viper parts and I have a new rear in the car (stock 3.42). Also a Textrilia. I won't be running slicks till I upgrade the rear in the future. Should I be ok for now if I use street tires and drag radials once in a while...Should be in the 800 RWHP range on 10PSI...
My car is making 800rwhp on 9-10 and its a 488CI motor with ported heads (mild.) What motor/combo are you going with? 10psi and 800rwhp seems fairly ambitious.
At what rwhp do you need to upgrade the trans and or the rear end?
I don't mean to steal this tread but I am going SC and will be around 520 rwhp at what rwhp do you need to upgrade the trans? and the rear end or will the trans brace and the left hardend out put shaft be good enough? Should you also do both shafts? or is just the one good enough?
Originally Posted by mdhmi
I think that's like asking if it hurts more to get shot with a BB gun or an AK47.
If you're seriously going to be running around at 800 rwhp you're going to break things, period. Add a differential strut brace - the purpose of that is to protect the differential when you take out the trans.
The important thing is to make sure you don't wheel hop. The crappier the tire the more likely you are to hop.. Keep that in mind.
Do you guys think the tranny will go? Even if I don't run slicks? The tranny is upgraded with Viper internals...
Transmissions, clutches, differentials, etc are all wear items. Cross that bridge when you get there. It's certainly nothing to be afraid of. If it blows it blows. Then you get to make it stronger.
No matter what you do, with the kind of power you will be making, you will break things. My approach was to make the drive train as strong as I can afford, and let the tires be my “weak link”. The most important thing is to avoid wheel hop like stated above. Ask me how I know about wheel hop. I also would suggest a differential like mine.
I wasn't questioning you I was asking you....Thanks for answering!! Did you replace your rear end? I see you are running 800rwhp...you did both shafts and all is good? how do you drive? what have you put you diff through????
Thanks,
Tom
Originally Posted by jersey jay
You asked if I did both and that was my reply.
You'll be fine doing 1 @ 520 saerwhp, I would not.
I do 5500rpm clutch dumps and 636rwtq, with Textralia, DTE strut and long output shaft, ET Streets, holding good so far. The only time I had a problem was with stock output breaking, a dead hook on BFG 315s. I have over 200 sprayed passes. Now some guys break the first time out?
Robert
I do 5500rpm clutch dumps and 636rwtq, with Textralia, DTE strut and long output shaft, ET Streets, holding good so far. The only time I had a problem was with stock output breaking, a dead hook on BFG 315s. I have over 200 sprayed passes. Now some guys break the first time out?
Robert
What do you mean DTE strut and long output shaft? is that different than a replacement DTE hardend output shaft? What are the best tires you would recommend? (good traction but not too good...breakage)