the straight ones suck!
they dont lock in the clip to prevent it from pushing out the rear of the boot. they can create air pressure and literally pop out the back!


iam done...needed to vent!

 

Quit using crap wires.

 

more like crappy boots...come to think of it i always had problems with condums busting too!

 

Your boyfriend must have hated that!!!

 

 

 

I'm dying here!

 

Too much information

 

You knew it was going to be something simple, now go replace my boots that you used.

 

ill remember that when we go for a ride next weekend

 

Boy your quick!

 

j/k Nick!! Just had to bust ba$$s!!! Hope you have all your issues ironed out with the car!! What kind of wires are you running? I have 7 good MSD ones!! Freekin tore 1 on the way out!! So I have to buy a new set, what's a good set?

 

My coil packs are still on top of the valve covers (not stock location) and I have been using the MSD 118* boot ends with Taylor Universals 7mm. No problems with them. It took the correct boot to angle it away from the header...my problem child was #5. Same one everytime I had a misfire until I changed boot angles.

 

yeah no burning wire issues here its just that the clip inside the boot doesnt lock in.

 

Well??????????

 

speaking of the PTK guys and plug wires. Do you guys have any problems with the plug wires getting hot/melting? If so, what're you using to shield them? Oh, and did your stock wires work with the PTS kit or did you have to buy new ones? I was thinking I heard at one point that Kevin was running truck wires.

 

I was running the GM truck wires...but they were creating problems. They were not shielded enough and when they would get hot they would disinegrate but stay in tact. So from the outside they would appear fine....and they would aslo run fine under load with my normal boost setting (8.75#) it was very difficult to isolate because everything appeared good and it worked at the lower boost setting.

But when I increased the boost there would be a random misfire from 4K and above...I thought it was valve springs float..so I replaced them with AFRs new valve springs....when I was replacing the valve springs...I tugged on one of the GM wires and it just came apart.

I then made up some custom wires and actually had ordered the 118* boot ends...but am still using the MSD 180* straights. I just tied them up a little to pull the boot end away from the header and used "kool sox" on the wire.

The problem went away plain and simple.

I tired the 90* boot ends and they are not long enough to go on and lock. The 90* boot ends cause the angle of the wire to rest on the side of the head. By tieing up the wire I intentionally angled the straight boot as though if it was a 118* boot.

I figured if I ever make new wires up I will use the 118* boot ends that I have. Once again my coils are still above the valve covers a few inches.

 

I concur, 95% of the non GM wires I've seen don't give a postive lock like the oem units, I guess the ptk kit will cook those

 

yeah they suck!
i now run the 90* ones but they will only work if the coils are relo.
i run them downwards so exhaust flange isnt an issue.
relo wires arent even remotely close to hot stuff. thats what really drove me nuts....all i did was r/r exhaust manifolds and change plugs then to have mising issues it sucked!
it always seems to be the stupid stuff that drives me nuts!
i had issues w/1514 code and i looked at the tac module checked wires ect i come to find out the the tangs in the tps connector were spread open too far and not making proper connection!

 

So what's the verdict? The beast up and running yet?