I posted this over in Tech too. The bottom of the pan states to torque in the proper sequence....I just know the ft/lbs. I guess I can use the normal pattern inside to outside cross pattern..but was just curious if anybody had any additional information on this.

Thanks

 

anything over @ how to ls1.com????

 

There is no sequence for the pan to block. You just have to make sure the rear pan face is flush with the back of the block.

Also, a small bead of sealant in all 4 cover to block interfaces.

There is a sequence for the pan cover to main pan struture but I dont think you need that info.

Phil

 

Thanks dude.

I am really having to clearance the f out of the front cover to fit over the melling oil pump. It is bumping up against the front cover at the seal location. I have clearanced it down to the point where I can get the cover on...but it kind of flexes the cover when I tighten it up against the block.

You think the front cover will break if it is flexed a little bit because it is making contact with the front of the oil pump?

 

Yup, you will pretty much have to grind down the entire seat that the seal stops in. Also near the neck of the pump where the pickup tube bolts to contacts the cover as well. I also grind off the extra riser part around the perimeter of the pumps cover plate bolts.

Last year or so I have switched to using Billet single JP gears with torrington bearings and the LS2 chains.

Phil

 

I did actually remove the pan cover to main pan....which is actually the part that reads..follow tq sequence. I just criss cross pattern tq'd them down to with about 9 ft/lbs.


The 4 block interfaces you mean each side of the pan? or just the front and rear cover interface on the pan?

Thanks

Yep as usual you nailed it. The first part I ground down was the part on the cover that surrounds the pick up tube....and as you mentioned I also hit the pump itself just a little to take off the corner.

I have been continuing to grind away the cover and was considering grinding a little on the pump itself because I am down to about 1/16" left on the cover. So now I will hit those other areas you mentioned on the oil pump itself.....so thanks for saving me some anxiety about that part.

I was thinking the whole time that I have been doing this...that people probably just use the new ls2 timing chain now days..but I have the rollmaster so I thought I would keep using it.

 

kevin or phil, isnt the hot set up, as far as oil pump, gm's DOD pump?
(displacement on demand)

 

I know nothing about that pump...unless it is the lq4 pump???? If it's the lq4 pump..then its not the one I want as it seems quite a few over on the other board have been reporting high oil pressures....like 140 psi....and at least one vendor reported it could suck the pan dry.

As for the Katech LS6 Oil pump I was using...it is in perfect condition. I am just anticipating the addition of the Oil cooler based on my experience when using one before with the Katech pump. When I had the TTi Stage III kit and a Ron Davis Rad w/integral oil cooler....on a new motor using my Katech LS6 pump, my oil pressure was lower then I had ever see it on my previous setups. Obviously feeding two turbos and an oil cooler via -10 line created a different need.

I thought about going with a dry sump..but wasn't interested in loosing my AC unit.

I think the Melling Pump is the way to go..quite a few people on this board and the other board have been using it for the past year or so with good results....it cost me $150 shipped to my door from Summit.

I just hope the Red spring isn't too much...because thats the one I am using. The instructions state that idle oil pressure is not effected...just cracking or relief pressure.....we will see.

I am installing an Air to Air Oil Cooler this time with -10 lines to.

My dilemna now is that I'm not liking the way the new front and rear cover seals look when comparing them to the previous ones. I am going to try and see if I can still purchase the previous version seals before I finish up the assembly.