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I am installing one with the racetronix harness and have a question. I have the NA activation switch which runs off vacuum. My question is, do I have to use this monster switch? KB told me that I could solder both pairs of wires and the pump would run all the time at full power. Not recomended as pump life would be shortened.
Could I run it without the activation switch and only the gain ****. So say have the **** at 0 and only turn it up when spraying? I don't want to run the risk of damaging the fuel pump anytime soon. Please give me your honest opinions and advice.
From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
Originally Posted by Yellow03Z06
I am installing one with the racetronix harness and have a question. I have the NA activation switch which runs off vacuum. My question is, do I have to use this monster switch? KB told me that I could solder both pairs of wires and the pump would run all the time at full power. Not recomended as pump life would be shortened.
Could I run it without the activation switch and only the gain ****. So say have the **** at 0 and only turn it up when spraying? I don't want to run the risk of damaging the fuel pump anytime soon. Please give me your honest opinions and advice.
Thanks.
Ivan
Yes you can do that with no problem, the KB BAP is also a voltage stabilizer as well. What you can do is use a meter and set the dial when you see 14 vdc... Then turn it up and see what your voltage is at, 14.4-15 is no problem all day. The other thing you can do is tie in the switch to you nitrous WOT switch.
Yes you can do that with no problem, the KB BAP is also a voltage stabilizer as well. What you can do is use a meter and set the dial when you see 14 vdc... Then turn it up and see what your voltage is at, 14.4-15 is no problem all day. The other thing you can do is tie in the switch to you nitrous WOT switch.
Thanks for all your help Brian, you have been a great help. If I could figure out how to tie it into the wot switch that's probably be the best since I would only need it on wot. i couldn't find anything on the website you gave me. Is is simply taping the wire to the wot wire, or would I need a relay. Thanks again.
From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
OK, I am basing this on the most basic GM Wet Kit, NOS 05175NOS...
I had a gut feeling the WOT switch was going to be a ground and while you can convert polarity via a relay, it is another link in the chain which isn't needed, keep it simple. So for eas of use and install, let's base the system off you "Nitrous Arm Switch" which in most systems is +12V Ignition... Now in a sense, we need to trick the BAP to "fire" and we will do this buy tieing into the arm switch on the hot and cold side. THIS IS DEPENDING ON IF THE PRESSURE SWITCH LINE IS + CIRCUIT.... I DON'T REMEMBER FOR SURE, HOOK UP THE MAIN SUPPLY LEADS ON THE BAP AND TEST EACH SIDE OF THE PRESSURE LINE TO DETERMINE...
If it is a open ground circuit, use the WOT switch which in most cases is ground. Hope this helps a bit more.,.,
I'm pretty sure that the two wires are either connected (most likely) or opened by the activation of the pressure switch in order to activate the BAP. This would make it relatively easy to adapt to a nitrous setup.
The wires that most are shorting together are the ones which control the gain (ie rich/lean) which I believe is a rheostat/variable resistor.
You definitely don't want to be putting 17 volts constantly to your fuel pump.
I'm pretty sure that the two wires are either connected (most likely) or opened by the activation of the pressure switch in order to activate the BAP. This would make it relatively easy to adapt to a nitrous setup.
The wires that most are shorting together are the ones which control the gain (ie rich/lean) which I believe is a rheostat/variable resistor.
You definitely don't want to be putting 17 volts constantly to your fuel pump.
So basically a toggle switch in place of the pressure switch should work?
OK, I am basing this on the most basic GM Wet Kit, NOS 05175NOS...
I had a gut feeling the WOT switch was going to be a ground and while you can convert polarity via a relay, it is another link in the chain which isn't needed, keep it simple. So for eas of use and install, let's base the system off you "Nitrous Arm Switch" which in most systems is +12V Ignition... Now in a sense, we need to trick the BAP to "fire" and we will do this buy tieing into the arm switch on the hot and cold side. THIS IS DEPENDING ON IF THE PRESSURE SWITCH LINE IS + CIRCUIT.... I DON'T REMEMBER FOR SURE, HOOK UP THE MAIN SUPPLY LEADS ON THE BAP AND TEST EACH SIDE OF THE PRESSURE LINE TO DETERMINE...
If it is a open ground circuit, use the WOT switch which in most cases is ground. Hope this helps a bit more.,.,
Yellow, where are you moutning your K/B boost a pump at? I just bought one from Brian@ICS, and trying to see all the moutning options from other peoples installs.
From: FI Performance : Norwalk Connecticut www.FIPERFORMANCE.com
Originally Posted by RED99
Yellow, where are you moutning your K/B boost a pump at? I just bought one from Brian@ICS, and trying to see all the moutning options from other peoples installs.
I like having mine in the battery compartment area...
Yellow, where are you moutning your K/B boost a pump at? I just bought one from Brian@ICS, and trying to see all the moutning options from other peoples installs.