I got too much wheel hop when just step on it a bit so I decided to get this DTE strut now instead of later.

Do we have to lower the rear sub-frame?

BTW, what is the best way to fix the wheel hop issue beside adding DTE?
I got Z51 spring and Bilstein shocks on a 20" wheels with 335/30/20 tires.

Thanks,
-Mike

 

You will need to lower it to get it in there.

It would be impossible or at least very improbably that you can get it in there without lower it. I have installed more than a half dozen of these.

Nick

 

Thanks Nick!!!
-Mike

 

The sub-frame for the M6-equipped cars only needs lowered a bit for the struts' installation, but the A4 model requires sub-frame removal to install the strut kit, as the physical larger size of the A4 transmission deems it necessary to do so just to get your arms up in there.


Best Regards,
DTE

 

Thanks!!!
what is the best way to fix the wheel hop issue beside adding DTE?
I got Z51 spring and Bilstein shocks on a 20" wheels with 335/30/20 tires.

 

Mike, one thing not mentioned above, be very careful how far you lower this, with the tunnel plate in it will only come so low, but if for some reason the plate wasn't in you can damage your firewall by lowering it too much.

As for the wheel hop, it's a mystery to many!! Some say coil overs help, lowering it, some say it's the tire compund, me I have my own thoughts. I would add, if possibnle, poly urthane bushing to the A-arms, a good set of shocks or coilovers. After that there doesn't sem like theres much that can be done. One thing that surprised me on the rear ends of these cars is other than the two motor mounts, there is only one center ount for the rearend. I would think, just my opinion, part of the issue with wheel hop is that the rear isn't held stable at all. I understand that the driveline is a solid unit and that it needs to torque, but I would think you could mount the rear with say a mini motor mount on each side to dampen any movement. I mean once it brakes free and the wheel hop begins there's nothing to dampen it unless you totaly pull off the gas. I don't know if you have ever rode a street bike, but one of the scariest things is what they call tank slap, you hit a bump, and the bars go crazy, from left to right, slapping the tank, the only way out of it is off the gas, kind of like wheel hop. Add a stabilizer, a mini shock, to the steering assemly, boom, no more tank slap! Greatest gizmo ever. My thought on the wheel hop, add a rear assembly that dampens this and stabilizes the rear, whel hop will all but be a thing of the past. I hope to actually make one when I free up some time. Anyone have thoughts on this??

 

The DTE Differential Strut was *never* designed to correct a axle-tramp condition, as that is a function of suspension/driveline wind-up and deflection, which entirely different altogether... The differential strut was however, designed to provide structural strength to a few targeted areas of the driveline, for which it does exceptionally well.

We've been preaching this before in *many* threads in the past- there is no silver-bullet, one-part-fixes-all component that will correct wheel hop, but rather a combination of a number of small, but critical upgrades that will eliminate it entirely....every time.

1. Coil over shocks with adjustable rebound/compression
2. Correct ride height
3. Correct dynamically adjusted wheel alignment
4. Correct tires (and no...."20's" will not cut it with that thin tire side wall...)
5. Correct tire pressure
6. Polyurethane suspension bushings

We've done all of the above to quite a few of the cars we build here that frequent the drag strips and not a single one of them ever has wheel hop again...ever. It takes a lot of work to perform all of this and it's not as glamorous as adding power, but fixing broken driveline parts over-and-over-and-over again due to wheel hop isn't fun/cheap either. Pick your poison..

Most folks never do all of the above at once, but rather try to cheap-out and only just do a couple of them to "save money" or because they "don't think they need to do anymore" than what they've done. Then those folks are always scratching their heads later when their car still wheel-hops anyway, or they say, "it only wheel-hops a little bit". *Any* car that wheel-hops, even a "little bit" is far too much, as it *will* fracture the driveline eventually...

The only way to secure driveline durability over time is to *completely* eliminate wheel-hop altogether. There are no "gray areas" and even a "little" is too much.....

HTH's


Best Regards,
DTE

 

Thanks for the info.

Do you guys do suspension work as well? I'm looking for a good, reputable shop to: set my ride height, do an alignment, set corner weights, things like that.

 

We perform a lot of suspension/steering improvements via polyurethane bushing upgrades, improved coil-over shock installations and setting ride height. We outsource our alignment services to a local company (I know the owner) that's within 1 mile of us that has a 2005 Hunter Laser Alignment Rack and they do exceptional, dead-accurate work everytime, using state-of-the-art equipment, especially on a Corvette....

Most of the cars we build here are for high performance street use, with drag racing as a focus, so we've never had a request or need to corner-weight a car as of yet. If we do or if we did begin to provide this service in numbers, I would simply purchase the corner-weight scales and be done with it, as I'm all for verticle integration.


Best Regards,
Phil- DTE

 

I installed my DTE Strut brace without dropping/lowering the cradle, an M12. My cure for wheel hop was going to ET Streets, best for the manual guys, imo, good sidewall wrinkle.
Robert

 

I shall be getting in touch with you soon.