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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 06:00 PM
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And ordered THIS today.

I'm thinking of using a momentary switch to activate it, but then I'd be left fumbling to shut it off upon launch. I need to figure out a way to have it active ONLY with clutch in and at a standstill. I don't think routing through a clutch switch would work because between shifts it would try to limit the RPM's, and I don't want to tap the VSS for a signal as that might play havoc with the speedo/odometer as they're quite sensitive to signal changes (learned this the hard way).

Any ideas????
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 06:15 PM
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That thing looks sweet!!... Keep the pedal mashed at have a set RPM while the clutch is down..

I spend so much time trying to hold and lock in on 3000rpms at the tree I end up freaking when I see the lights count down... .200 reaction times...
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 06:35 PM
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That looks sweet and something that we will need some feedback on
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Old Sep 25, 2007 | 07:04 PM
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I remember John Self (DJ Self) saying that he loved the 2 step on his LPE Stage II+ turbo C5.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:05 AM
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This is a BRAND new part from Lingenfelter. They just finished R&D on it, to the point that detailed switch controlled installation instructions aren't even available yet.

My ONLY hang up right now is how to install it. I want it to automatically shut off once the vehicle is moving. Unfortunately, there's not a way to directly do that. Here's the options I'm thinking of right now:

Clutch Switch -- Big problem here is that if you are banging gears, it could very easily try to reel in the RPM between shifts. Possibility: Custom installed switch on the floor that is ONLY activated with the clutch all the way down. I don't know about you guys but when I'm powershifting, I'm pretty much just kicking the clutch pedal down about 1/2 way. That might actually work come to think of it.

Momentary switch -- Manually turn on and off the limiter. This could own you hard core if you forget to turn it off, but the biggest issue I see is trying to time it to shut it off immediately upon launch in that short timeframe between letting the clutch out when the RPM's drop before they hit the pre-set limit again.

Tap the ABS or VSS for a speed signal -- This could have a ton of potential being that you could set it to be shut off anytime the vehicle is moving. But.......two components that are sensitive to voltage changes, so that's quite probably playing with fire there.

I'm out of ideas. I'll probably look at switches this weekend when I have some time off (Radio Shack) and see if I can't come up with something. Anyone have anything to offer??? Yes, I'm playing guinea-pig on this one.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:18 AM
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cool.
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:19 AM
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how much will it help in the 1/4?
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Old Sep 26, 2007 | 12:54 AM
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Tremendously from what I can tell. My launches were killing me because the little ol' stock LS1 just doesn't want to hang in there, even with a clutch dump from 5K rpm. If I can get some boost off the line built up and leave at 2-4 lbs, so long as traction stays, it'll be a wild ride. In the searching I've done I'm finding people that have cut nearly .5 off of their short times with this setup (going from 2.2-2.3 to 1.6-1.7 range). That's a helluva lot off the top end.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 12:00 AM
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Think I've got a plan of attack for the installation now. Talked to a buddy of mine who's a genius, tuner, GM guy, and his suggestion was to install a switch on the clutch plate (not oging to happen there, but more on that in a minute) that's hit in 1st gear only, and tap the clutch switch so that it's ONLY active with the pedal down and shifter in first gear.

I was looking at my shifter tonight. I have a hurst, and there's a couple of body bolts on it (not the spring bolts) that I could easily mount a fabbed aluminum plate under with a small radio shack switch mounted on and positioned so that the shifter shaft will only touch it in 1st gear. Should be fairly easy actually. Then I just need to run that to the clutch switch, and connect to the launch controller, and I should be golden. Hopefully it comes in tomorrow or Friday so I can work on it this weekend.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 07:53 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNZO6
You can relax on your discussion of installation tactics, etc.

These are easy to put in and hook up.

They have a latched start so you don't have to worry about figuring out how to only make it work in first gear, etc.

As for them doing the R&D on it...

They do work. They are not going to cut a half second off of your short times, but they work... I know first hand.

Tires are still everything.
Not this one. Jason from Lingenfelter sent me the following in an email:
The trigger method installation instructions are the part that are currently not very in depth (non existent). Hopefully this will not cause you any problems.
Nothing has been mentioned about a latched function in this one. It's not like the Harlan or Synergy (thought I've seen nothing that says the synergy operates under latched). I've been discussing with Jason options on trying to figure out how to make this thing work only under certain conditions. So, like I said, this is a brand new just released, bugs (meaning operating techniques) not worked out product that all they pretty much know at this point is you supply power and ground and the limiter works.

AS far as cutting .5 off my short time...maybe, maybe not. But I know that with a couple lbs of boost off the line I'm not going to be bogging like I was, and I've got tires that'll get me into the 1.7-1.6 range, so as long as I don't overdo it I think I'm going to see some marked improvements once it's dialed in.
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Old Sep 27, 2007 | 05:59 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by BLOWNZO6
As far as I understand it, this IS a slightly modified Harlan Engineering one, so I can let you know as soon as I receive mine. I should know within a few days, I ordered one yesterday too. If you look at the part, it is pretty much identical to the Harlan box, the Harlan ones are not potted.

I was getting 1.57-1.61 sixties with this setup, but you are not going to do that with a drag radial depending on the power you making.

Good luck.
I've never laid eyes on a harlan box, but talking with Jason leads me to believe that there's no latched function for this. I do have the directions sitting in an email waiting for me though, and UPS says mine will be here tomorrow.

Short times??? I'm not expecting a lot, as I'm on 305/35-18 Nitto DR's and am making 480 RWTQ @ 3500 RPM. Need a CCW Drag pack, but just can't afford it.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Fastbird93
This is a BRAND new part from Lingenfelter. They just finished R&D on it, to the point that detailed switch controlled installation instructions aren't even available yet.
It may indeed be a new unit.
Or,
it may just be new to retail from LPE.

John Self's car was a "one-of-a-kind" LPE project and featured many tweaks that were not available to the general public at the time.

Fact: John was running a LPE 2 step on his car when it was delivered by LPE back in 2003.
Ask anyone who was knows the car.
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Old Sep 29, 2007 | 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ECS tuned LSx
It may indeed be a new unit.
Or,
it may just be new to retail from LPE.

John Self's car was a "one-of-a-kind" LPE project and featured many tweaks that were not available to the general public at the time.

Fact: John was running a LPE 2 step on his car when it was delivered by LPE back in 2003.
Ask anyone who was knows the car.
I'll agree to that. Jason flat out told me they have a BUNCH of in-house stuff that's not released. The Lingenfelter Skunkworks..........things that make you go hmmmmm.....

Hey, anyone know about the clutch switch (the one for the starter engagement)?? I found the stuff in the service manual for it, but am not sure if it's got enough voltage going through it when closed (I.E. Pedal up as it's a normally closed switch) to enable a relay. Jason sent me some directions that have been confirmed in an F-Body to now work, but looking at them I may have figured out a much easier way to wire it up at the switch. More to come.

*Edit* Nevermind about the above question. I just hooked up my multimeter to it. 0.000 vDC with the key off, with the key on it's 0.004-0.005 vDC. I guess that's all the computer needs to see across it to verify that the clutch pedal isn't down.

Last edited by Fastbird; Sep 29, 2007 at 11:57 PM.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 12:05 AM
  #14  
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Default 2-steps

Where does information like this come from? The LPE 2-step has nothing to do with the Harlan 2-step. It is not a copy of the Harlan design. It would be nice if people had actual facts before they make statements like that.

Regarding the latched functions, our device does not offer latched operation. For liability and other reasons we choose not to design our device to function with latched type control.

The wiring diagrams we have provided should take care of most installation options. To disable the 2-step once you are moving for applications wired into the clutch switch (and not using a momentary switch) we have modified the software in our speed to voltage converter box to give it a speed switch type capability (much like an rpm switch but based on speed). We are testing these in house and with a couple customers. We should be ready to release these in the next week or so.

We have had some customers test letting the 2-step trigger during the shifts and this actually seems to work well to reduce engine torque and improve the shifts on WOT shifts.

The part number on the speed to voltage converter is STOV-001. It was developed to provide speed and gear change information to boost controllers so it has two switched outputs along with a 0-5 volt analog voltage output (0-250 mph). When in vehicle speed switch mode the two switched outputs become normally open and normally closed. Right now the switch settings allow you to trigger the outputs at 1 to 15 mph in 1 mph increments. We are adding additional capabilities to this box as we get feedback from customers and as we find additional uses for it.

The STOV-001 is one of those “skunkworks” type products. Originally developed for in house use and never marketed to the outside world. Our digital RPM switch and shift light controller is another that we recently released. We hope to make others available soon too.

Regarding John Self’s 2-step, that was indeed a Harlan 2-step. We installed several of the Harlan 2-steps on customer drag race vehicles.


Jason

Originally Posted by BLOWNZO6
As far as I understand it, this IS a slightly modified Harlan Engineering one, so I can let you know as soon as I receive mine. I should know within a few days, I ordered one yesterday too. If you look at the part, it is pretty much identical to the Harlan box, the Harlan ones are not potted.

I was getting 1.57-1.61 sixties with this setup, but you are not going to do that with a drag radial depending on the power you making.

Good luck.
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Old Oct 6, 2007 | 01:04 AM
  #15  
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Jason,

Haven't had a chance to finish my install yet. The clutch switch instructions that you emailed me were spot on. I just got the secondary interrupt switch mounted on the shifter tonight using some aluminum sheeting and a couple of screws. I think it's actually going to work remarkably well for what it is. I'll get you the info and pics of the actual install as asked on Sunday or Monday once I've polished everything up and got my notes together.

Sean
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 11:10 AM
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Hum..........might help me with consistant RPM launches off the T-brake
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Old Oct 8, 2007 | 08:14 PM
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I just did a similar setup from Synergy which they call a stutter box. You can easilly hook it up to the clutch switch because it is a 1 time use,meaning the clutch has to be in to arm it,then when the clutch is released the box is shut off.

You need real tires to use this.I find launching at 5000rpm with a slight clutch slip works better on spooling small turbo's and hit's the traction alot better. Ran a 1.50 60' before in a TT Vette on DR's.
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