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I just got my new motor in, and broken in with the d1sc. (fully forged, cam ect) And right before I go to get the retune, my clutch starts slipping
This is a spec stage 3+ with MAYBE 1000 miles on it. Im livid, and fairly poor from the motor buy. What do you guys reccomend? I drive this car almost every day so I want pretty driveable, BUT the car will be putting 750+ rwhp down fairly soon, and I have a bit of a drag racing fetish :o
no more specs. I was thinking a dual disk setup, but Im not sure which one, and price is a factor sadly...
And yes, I did search and I have seen what people run, but I want a current update. I want to hear what the 700+ hp guys are using/how many miles they have and how they feel about the clutch.
Spec 3 plus is only rated to about 700-800 tq? With a supercharger and forged motor you're likely pushing it to it's limit.
I'm not making that kinda power yet, but I have a McLeod and know others have had success with it as well. Regardless I think everyone will be recommending a dual disc setup for that kind of power.
Spec 3 plus is only rated to about 700-800 tq? With a supercharger and forged motor you're likely pushing it to it's limit.
I'm not making that kinda power yet, but I have a McLeod and know others have had success with it as well. Regardless I think everyone will be recommending a dual disc setup for that kind of power.
We were aiming for 700 or so to the wheels, so thats quite possible...
What bothers me is that the clutch is not old, and I havent floored it yet with this motor. This was under partial throttle that it failed. Could a bad master be sticking and causing the clutch to not fully engage?
Could be any number of things. Did you replace the slave while you were in there? Is it bled properly? Did you break in the clutch nicely for the first few hundred miles?
Some folks put in a new clutch with a new motor and thrash the motor fairly hard to break it in. What they don't realize is that they're not allowing the clutch time to seat properly.
I'm ordering a spec 3plus later today for a good friend. Their customer service is very good IMO. Every time I call I get someone on the phone. Same experience with McLeod.
Called spec, he thinks I got oil or something on the clutch. Im gonna take off the inspection plate and see what it looks like in there, maybe I messed it up..
As for break-in I drove almost 500 miles with no hard clutch usage when I installed it. After it was broken in, it worked great for awhile on the old motor and the new one. Just started slipping recently, on a partial throttle freeway roll on, and hasn't held since then
If I have to pull it out, I will be replacing it. Its just not worth it to try to clean and reuse the clutch. Too much time, and work to do twice.\
Edit- Yes, it has a new slave. Also it is bled correctly, and worked great for a while.
I went with a 3+ twin disk once I passed the 700rwhp mark. Smooth sailing for at least a year now.
If the 3+ didn't get fully engaged and was slipping during a little fun, then it could have cooked the disk and that's that for any clutch.
Did you have your master/slave replaced along with the clutch? 9 times out of 10 it's these shortcuts that kill a new clutch.
Replaced both with the clutch. I installed it myself, and I am a ASE certified master tech with a bit of experience
Im leaning towards textralia after talking to robert at advanced and doing more research. I would love if i could just clean this one up instead The spec rep said that if it is oil I should be able to clean it out and keep using it. I was very meticulous about making sure the clutch was clean and dry on the install, but I will check again
Did you put a bunch of loctite on the flywheel bolts? They have tendency to leak oil.
Also, as you know rear main can contribute to this, but you'd have noticed that easily. I'm bettin it's the flywheel bolts. Use thread sealer this time or some of the loctite gel.
Good luck. I just ordered that clutch for my buddy. That makes it 6 times I've called in the last month and 6 times I got a person on the phone.
I had good luck with the Spec Stage 4 with the last car, but it was slightly violent at first. I'd go with a Spec twin disc or RPS twin. After having a textralia twin, i'm just milking a spec stage 2 for the season, as the Exo took all my car funds for the year. Next year will be a 3+ or fidanza twin
I have Mcleod twin disc. I have had Textralia single, triple. All I can say is man I love this clutch. The engagment is so much smoother pedal so much better feel. I could go on and on. Little to no chatter light pedal. Should I keep going?
I just got my new motor in, and broken in with the d1sc. (fully forged, cam ect) And right before I go to get the retune, my clutch starts slipping
This is a spec stage 3+ with MAYBE 1000 miles on it. Im livid, and fairly poor from the motor buy. What do you guys reccomend? I drive this car almost every day so I want pretty driveable, BUT the car will be putting 750+ rwhp down fairly soon, and I have a bit of a drag racing fetish :o
no more specs. I was thinking a dual disk setup, but Im not sure which one, and price is a factor sadly...
And yes, I did search and I have seen what people run, but I want a current update. I want to hear what the 700+ hp guys are using/how many miles they have and how they feel about the clutch.
SPEC SUCKS I had a stage 3 500 miles on it and it welded to the fly wheel spec blamed everone but themselfs
Did you put a bunch of loctite on the flywheel bolts? They have tendency to leak oil.
Also, as you know rear main can contribute to this, but you'd have noticed that easily. I'm bettin it's the flywheel bolts. Use thread sealer this time or some of the loctite gel.
Good luck. I just ordered that clutch for my buddy. That makes it 6 times I've called in the last month and 6 times I got a person on the phone.
Locktited the flywheel bolts as per GM specs... I didn't completely douse them in it, but you arent supposed to do that anyways. Leaks from the flywheel bolts? Thats pretty lame if so, and considering the old bolts had just a tiny bit of loctite in them I cant imagine this being the problem.
I cleaned out the clutch area as best I could, doesnt really seem to be a change. I guess its down to mcleod or textralia duals...
I just want the car to run for awhile without anything breaking for once
the clutch you are currently using, are there any shims in place? Maybe they need to be removed to allow the PP to fully clamp...
You mean shims like they do on the lt-1 behind the slave? I installed it exactly as spec reccomended at the time, so Im not sure, since I didn't check when i had the motor out. If I pull the clutch I'm probably not going to risk re-installing this one.
You mean shims like they do on the lt-1 behind the slave? I installed it exactly as spec reccomended at the time, so Im not sure, since I didn't check when i had the motor out. If I pull the clutch I'm probably not going to risk re-installing this one.
actually I was talking about if there were any shims on the clutch itself. but, since you said there is one behind the slave, is it possible that the slave is pushed too far forward, not allowing the pressure plate fingers to completely decompress completely...?
actually I was talking about if there were any shims on the clutch itself. but, since you said there is one behind the slave, is it possible that the slave is pushed too far forward, not allowing the pressure plate fingers to completely decompress completely...?
The clutch actually disengages at the factory pt, about 2-3 inches off the floor. There is more than enough room for it to fully engage. I dont think I have a shim in there, again I installed it exactly as the spec paperwork said. It was a bit ago that I installed it, and Ive done quite a few clutches since then on customer cars, so forgive me if I don't remember fully
Well I was thinking I would go with a mcleod or textralia twin disk, but since Ive left three messages with text and gotten no response, I would prefer mcleod JUST because they seem to care about my business enough to answer/call me back with more info.
I eventually plan on changing the heads and going with more boost, so the HP output will likely end up in the 800s, so I guess a clutch replacement was inevitable...
I just installed the RPS Triple Carbon clutch, and I could not be more pleased.
It drives pretty much like stock, except for a slightly heavier pedal.
Others had warned me it would be SO HEAVY i'd hate it, but my previous experience with an RPS Twin Carbon gave me the belief that this one would be fine, and I was correct.
I've put about 300+ miles on it since install, mostly backroads driving, to break it in, and I truly look forward to getting behind the wheel each time.
It was expensive, but IMHO, it is money well spent.