i have just completed my ecs novi 2000 setup but on the dyno the belt broke off i brough a new one and put on and after 186 mile the belt broke off again and i looks exactly the same





does any one have any idea what my problem is??

 

a little info on your setup..Stock motor or forged? 6 or 8 rib?? how much boost?? What pulley are you running on the head unit??

 

looks like a 6 rib for sure, if you did the install I would say most likely an allinement issue, you need to check that first. that should solve your issue, if not check for anything rubbing

 

also check the bypass valve is hooked up and working...

 

Looks like the bellt is too tight.

 

the setup i stock whit the novi 2000 sc600 kit whit the stock boost 6-8 psi...

 

I have the same problem. Three belts in less than 2000 miles. The belts just snap, they don't fray or get chucked. The last one ripped my previously immaculate hoodliner I am getting very close to giving up on this and going N/A. One more time being stranded and I'm done.

 

That just ain't right!
I have 3 years of doing all the things that are supposed to be hard on belts, like power shifting and running into the rev limiter.
What does Dr. Phil say about it?
Let me know if there's any way I can help, like meeting so we can compare setups to see if anything is noticeably different.......at Phils if you and he think that would do any good.

Is it possible that you or "n_brio" have the manual belt tensioner adjusted too tight, putting the spring tensioner against the stop at the end of its travel? When rotating all the idlers and belt driven accessories by hand, do they feel smooth and turn easily? Is there any wobble in the vibration damper?

Otherwise, I'd think it's an alignment problem. Any significant belt dust?
Or maybe a problem with the bypass valve, as Chris mentioned. You can probably tell if the bypass is working right from the sound when you drive, but if it's never worked right, you might not know what to listen for.

 

Phil had called me on this and I honestly didn't have an answer for him, I never had a single situation like these with our SC here, and I doubt many others have beat their cars harder than we do. I did have problems like that with the ATI head units when the belt was not tight enough, it would cause the belt to snap clean like that. I wish I could offer more help, something is not set up right.

If it was an alignment issue the belt would would be frayed along the entire edge of whatever side was off. My suggestion would be to make the sure the tensioner is fully opened while adjusting the new belt.

 

there is no belt dust, if its no dust can it be a alignment problem then??

is this tensioner i have marked to thight to the big wheel??


and how mutch should the tensioner ner the headunit be tighten??

i think bypass valve work becous when i put the foot from the trottle i hear a pusssch

exuse my bad english im from sweden :o

 

Yes that is the tensioner, you want it to around the 12 o'clock position when the belt is tight. Also make sure that your fixed idler on the other side of the balancer is in the highest position that it can be in for the pulley size.

 

Also make sure that your fixed idler on the other side of the balancer is in the highest position that it can be in for the pulley size.

is that the idler i have marked blue???


should it be in the highest possition??
and how the hell do i get the belt on then??
becous the tensioner i have mark red is pretty hard to move, if i thighten the belt so that the tensioner stands 12 a clock the belt is very very very thight, to thight??

 

 

its a stock motor with the ecs sc600 kit as it comes...

 

Everything n_brio is saying sounds identical to mine. The belt is not near twelve, 1:00 at best, and the belt already seems too tight to me. Doug please expand on the fixed idler question. Is it the one n_brio has marked in blue?

 

Thanks for the offer and I may take you up on it. The problem is Dr. Phil is always so booked up it's hard to get an appointment. Anyway, Phil has offered some suggestions which I have implemented but the belt just seems too tight and the spring tensioner is, I believe, still too close to the balancer. I hope this can be worked out but in the final analysis I'd rather have a slow car than a broke car.

 

If you look down from the top with a flashlight, you can see the stops on the spring tensioner (assuming yours is the same as mine). I've always cranked the manual tensioner on the head unit until there was about 1/4" between these stops, leaving a little room for it to move.

We could look for obvious stuff without Phil, but I'd think he would have already caught that. I just don't have a good way to get the car off the ground to look at the bottom. It'll be a floor jack and a creeper.

 

I think the problem is that the tensioner is not opened enough if your near the 1 0'clock position. The belt needs a lot of tension, when it is allowed to bottom out the tensioner from not being opened enough, it causes it to snap hard when going from load to no load. The belt will have a surprising amount of stretch if you watch it on a dyno, so you have to make sure your making up all of that while at WOT. With the amount of wrap we have on the head unit pulley, it can actually bottom out the tensioner sometimes while not slipping noticeably, this is when you could have the snapping happening. (letting off at the top of a WOT pull, or during shifts)

The fixed idler , in blue, has three mounting spots. We generally keep the idler in the middle hole, which is the highest hole that will allow the idler to mount in without hitting the W.P. bolts.

Back off the adjustable idler under the head unit pulley, place the belt on all the accessories except for the water pump, open the tesioner slightly, and wrap the belt around the water pump. Then go up top and run the adjustable idler under the head unit pulley to were the belts are practically touching each other.

That is how we set up every car here, and as you can see these guys are just going round after round and mile after mile with smiles. Dont give up, we'll get this glitch ironed out and you will enjoy the car.

 

I agree with Doug. I have customers with ECS Novi 2000 kits that beat on their cars like a drum for more than a year with no belt issues.

 

I agree with Doug too. My car is still broken. Thanks for the input.