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Old 06-01-2008, 04:47 PM
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vettegator005
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Im looking at getting a nitrious kit for my vette. I only want around a 50 shot just to make sure that nothing goes wrong. First question is after i get the nitrious installed do i have to get the car retuned? I recently had a 112 lsa cam put in is that to much lobe seperation for the nitious to be effective? Where can i purchase such a kit. Is it a diy install or a shop install.
Old 06-02-2008, 12:22 AM
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BLOWNBLUEZ06
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You should be able to get away with a 50 shot without changing tune. Any more than that, you'll need a tune. DIY or shop depends on your skill level, wallet size, tools etc. nitrous isn't difficult, but there are things you must know to prevent catastrophic failure. Get a good kit from a supporting vendor, buy everything they tell you to and install it the way you are told. Make good quality connections, take your time and you should have a good reliable system when you're done.
Old 06-02-2008, 12:23 AM
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BLOWNBLUEZ06
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As far as the cam is concerned, do you mean too much overlap?
Old 06-02-2008, 01:12 AM
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well with the cam i was looking at throwing a procharger system on it and the shop told me my cam was to large to much lobe seperation angle and the boost would escape. So i was wondering if this was the same for nitrious.
Old 06-02-2008, 07:53 AM
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It's the same for nitrous but it won't make a difference with a 50-150 shot. I am going to spray a 300 shot on a 408 so I went with a 114. 112 will give you a little more HP while NA.
Old 06-02-2008, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by vettegator005
well with the cam i was looking at throwing a procharger system on it and the shop told me my cam was to large to much lobe seperation angle and the boost would escape. So i was wondering if this was the same for nitrious.
They're talking about too much overlap. The valve timing events overlap each other. With a 112 cam, the intake and exhaust are open at the same time for a short period of time. This is what causes the " lopey " idle. It is good for scavenging as the exhaust is exiting, the engine will use the exhaust to help pull in the intake charge which is good for higher rpm power on N/A engines. With too much separation, you will do the opposite and make more power under the curve because you will build more cylinder pressure earlier because you're doing a better job of trapping the air/fuel charge. The 112 or 114 is the number of degrees between the cam lobes. If you look at your cam card you'll see the duration of the intake and exhaust lobes. If it was 248 duration for each, imagine you cut the lobes in half and look from the peak lift down. You would consider 124 degrees from the peak down to .050 lift. With that, you would have 124 degrees minus your 112 and have 12 degrees of overlap. If you changed it to 114 degrees of lobe separation, you would be looking at 10 degrees overlap.
Old 06-02-2008, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BLOWNBLUEZ06
They're talking about too much overlap. The valve timing events overlap each other. With a 112 cam, the intake and exhaust are open at the same time for a short period of time. This is what causes the " lopey " idle. It is good for scavenging as the exhaust is exiting, the engine will use the exhaust to help pull in the intake charge which is good for higher rpm power on N/A engines. With too much separation, you will do the opposite and make more power under the curve because you will build more cylinder pressure earlier because you're doing a better job of trapping the air/fuel charge. The 112 or 114 is the number of degrees between the cam lobes. If you look at your cam card you'll see the duration of the intake and exhaust lobes. If it was 248 duration for each, imagine you cut the lobes in half and look from the peak lift down. You would consider 124 degrees from the peak down to .050 lift. With that, you would have 124 degrees minus your 112 and have 12 degrees of overlap. If you changed it to 114 degrees of lobe separation, you would be looking at 10 degrees overlap.
thank you very much very helpful information. where can i get a nitrous setup? And if im just getting a 50 shot should i go wet or dry?
Old 06-02-2008, 02:34 PM
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dry should be fine for a 50 shot if you have the air temp sensor built into your MAF sensor. If you do, it will have 5 wires. Not sure it would be wise to spray dry with a 3 wire MAF. Beer99C5 makes a really nice nitrous switch panel. Not sure if he sells the kits. If not, you can click on the nitrous bottle in the sponsored ads column to get in touch with Nitrous Direct.
Old 06-02-2008, 03:01 PM
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i have a 150 dry and am about to spray 300 dry through the MAF. dry is safer than wet.
Old 06-02-2008, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Higgs Boson
i have a 150 dry and am about to spray 300 dry through the MAF. dry is safer than wet.

see ive heard the exact opposite. Ive heard spraying a lot of dry nitrous is a really bad idea and you are just asking for trouble. Is that not true?
Old 06-02-2008, 04:51 PM
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IMO, nitrous in the intake manifold is ok. Fuel in the intake manifold is trouble.

Nitrous isn't flammable. Fuel is.

A wet kit means fuel and nitrous together in the intake manifold.

A dry kit means nitrous only in the intake and it mixes with fuel in the cylinder (at the valve, really).

You tell me which is safer if I don't want explosive fuel outside the combustion chambers....

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