Nitrous Questions
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Nitrous Questions
Im looking at getting a nitrious kit for my vette. I only want around a 50 shot just to make sure that nothing goes wrong. First question is after i get the nitrious installed do i have to get the car retuned? I recently had a 112 lsa cam put in is that to much lobe seperation for the nitious to be effective? Where can i purchase such a kit. Is it a diy install or a shop install.
#2
Tech Contributor
You should be able to get away with a 50 shot without changing tune. Any more than that, you'll need a tune. DIY or shop depends on your skill level, wallet size, tools etc. nitrous isn't difficult, but there are things you must know to prevent catastrophic failure. Get a good kit from a supporting vendor, buy everything they tell you to and install it the way you are told. Make good quality connections, take your time and you should have a good reliable system when you're done.
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
well with the cam i was looking at throwing a procharger system on it and the shop told me my cam was to large to much lobe seperation angle and the boost would escape. So i was wondering if this was the same for nitrious.
#5
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,764
Received 2,383 Likes
on
1,240 Posts
It's the same for nitrous but it won't make a difference with a 50-150 shot. I am going to spray a 300 shot on a 408 so I went with a 114. 112 will give you a little more HP while NA.
#6
Tech Contributor
They're talking about too much overlap. The valve timing events overlap each other. With a 112 cam, the intake and exhaust are open at the same time for a short period of time. This is what causes the " lopey " idle. It is good for scavenging as the exhaust is exiting, the engine will use the exhaust to help pull in the intake charge which is good for higher rpm power on N/A engines. With too much separation, you will do the opposite and make more power under the curve because you will build more cylinder pressure earlier because you're doing a better job of trapping the air/fuel charge. The 112 or 114 is the number of degrees between the cam lobes. If you look at your cam card you'll see the duration of the intake and exhaust lobes. If it was 248 duration for each, imagine you cut the lobes in half and look from the peak lift down. You would consider 124 degrees from the peak down to .050 lift. With that, you would have 124 degrees minus your 112 and have 12 degrees of overlap. If you changed it to 114 degrees of lobe separation, you would be looking at 10 degrees overlap.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
They're talking about too much overlap. The valve timing events overlap each other. With a 112 cam, the intake and exhaust are open at the same time for a short period of time. This is what causes the " lopey " idle. It is good for scavenging as the exhaust is exiting, the engine will use the exhaust to help pull in the intake charge which is good for higher rpm power on N/A engines. With too much separation, you will do the opposite and make more power under the curve because you will build more cylinder pressure earlier because you're doing a better job of trapping the air/fuel charge. The 112 or 114 is the number of degrees between the cam lobes. If you look at your cam card you'll see the duration of the intake and exhaust lobes. If it was 248 duration for each, imagine you cut the lobes in half and look from the peak lift down. You would consider 124 degrees from the peak down to .050 lift. With that, you would have 124 degrees minus your 112 and have 12 degrees of overlap. If you changed it to 114 degrees of lobe separation, you would be looking at 10 degrees overlap.
#8
Tech Contributor
dry should be fine for a 50 shot if you have the air temp sensor built into your MAF sensor. If you do, it will have 5 wires. Not sure it would be wise to spray dry with a 3 wire MAF. Beer99C5 makes a really nice nitrous switch panel. Not sure if he sells the kits. If not, you can click on the nitrous bottle in the sponsored ads column to get in touch with Nitrous Direct.
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,764
Received 2,383 Likes
on
1,240 Posts
i have a 150 dry and am about to spray 300 dry through the MAF. dry is safer than wet.
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#11
Race Director
Member Since: Jul 2007
Location: Texas Hill Country
Posts: 10,764
Received 2,383 Likes
on
1,240 Posts
IMO, nitrous in the intake manifold is ok. Fuel in the intake manifold is trouble.
Nitrous isn't flammable. Fuel is.
A wet kit means fuel and nitrous together in the intake manifold.
A dry kit means nitrous only in the intake and it mixes with fuel in the cylinder (at the valve, really).
You tell me which is safer if I don't want explosive fuel outside the combustion chambers....
Nitrous isn't flammable. Fuel is.
A wet kit means fuel and nitrous together in the intake manifold.
A dry kit means nitrous only in the intake and it mixes with fuel in the cylinder (at the valve, really).
You tell me which is safer if I don't want explosive fuel outside the combustion chambers....