C5 Forced Induction/Nitrous C5 Corvette Turbochargers, Superchargers, Centrifugal, Twin Screw & Roots Blowers, Twin Turbo Kits, Intercoolers, Wet & Dry Nitrous Injection, Meth
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Old Sep 18, 2008 | 10:48 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by vodan
I thought since I'm going to have the engine out and apart anyway, I might as well do heads. If I run out of money for the project then I might not do heads. What kind of gain would you guess i'm going to get out of them at 15 psi?

I actually was planning on doing a methanol kit.. forgot to list it though

How much do those radiators and oil coolers cost roughly? That's a good idea and something I hadn't thought about yet

Brakes I'm going to be waiting a little while on. I'm not going to be racing it right away so I think I'll be ok. Thanks for the recommendations.

What about the trans and axles?
A few thoughts. My tuner EPP has set up almost identical 402 blocks, mine with Patrior heads, the other with AFR. The difference in hp is not terribly. That’s why I didn’t spend the money on my FI engine and to the contrary why I bought ET Performance heads (slightly more expensive than AFR) for my track engine.

If you are planning on running 15 lbs of boost I would consider spending a little extra money and upgrade your blower from a D1sc to a F1c. The latter has a much higher step up ratio, which will allow you to run larger SC pulleys and get a big advantage on licking any belt slip issues. Additionally, @ 15 lbs you’re pushing the comfortable upper limit of the D1sc, but the F1sc is going to be loafing along. The latter should also run cooler.

As for the radiator and external oil cooler, your probably looking at $1,500-2,000 in parts.

In terms of a trans and axle: If you ¼ mile or dump the clutch hard, your going to need to address that soon. If you plan to take it easy on the equip for a while and later try HPDE’s/RR, you will want to talk to Rodney at RPM Transmissions. You will want to consider a level 4 or 5 trans. Additionally, you may want to add a diff and trans cooler. Once you start getting more seat time and push the car hard you start to really to fry those two components without coolers.

Eventually, if you get really into RR you will want a NA set up, since FI generates a ton of heat. I.e. FI is great for 5-6 RR days per year. If you’re a RR junkie, it’s not ideal.

Good luck.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 05:29 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by N4cer
You're not running a 4.03" bore.
Don't make that mistake.
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 01:20 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by snitz
A few thoughts. My tuner EPP has set up almost identical 402 blocks, mine with Patrior heads, the other with AFR. The difference in hp is not terribly. That’s why I didn’t spend the money on my FI engine and to the contrary why I bought ET Performance heads (slightly more expensive than AFR) for my track engine.

If you are planning on running 15 lbs of boost I would consider spending a little extra money and upgrade your blower from a D1sc to a F1c. The latter has a much higher step up ratio, which will allow you to run larger SC pulleys and get a big advantage on licking any belt slip issues. Additionally, @ 15 lbs you’re pushing the comfortable upper limit of the D1sc, but the F1sc is going to be loafing along. The latter should also run cooler.

As for the radiator and external oil cooler, your probably looking at $1,500-2,000 in parts.

In terms of a trans and axle: If you ¼ mile or dump the clutch hard, your going to need to address that soon. If you plan to take it easy on the equip for a while and later try HPDE’s/RR, you will want to talk to Rodney at RPM Transmissions. You will want to consider a level 4 or 5 trans. Additionally, you may want to add a diff and trans cooler. Once you start getting more seat time and push the car hard you start to really to fry those two components without coolers.

Eventually, if you get really into RR you will want a NA set up, since FI generates a ton of heat. I.e. FI is great for 5-6 RR days per year. If you’re a RR junkie, it’s not ideal.

Good luck.
Thanks for the advice on the heads

I'm not looking at doing alot of RR. Mostly I just want a really quick, fun car that will be driven on the street mainly with the occasional drag or RR.

I'm set on going with the Kenne bell, although I'm not positive if I'll do the 2.6 or the 2.8.

I'll definitely look into those cooling mods and see if I can work them into my budget.

So you think the stock axle's and trans will hold up for a while as long as I'm not really hard on it? (I.E. burnouts, clutch dumps, quick shifts)

Thanks again everyone for your input
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Old Sep 19, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #24  
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From: Arlington Heights Illinois
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Originally Posted by vodan
Thanks for the advice on the heads

I'm not looking at doing alot of RR. Mostly I just want a really quick, fun car that will be driven on the street mainly with the occasional drag or RR.

I'm set on going with the Kenne bell, although I'm not positive if I'll do the 2.6 or the 2.8.

I'll definitely look into those cooling mods and see if I can work them into my budget.

So you think the stock axle's and trans will hold up for a while as long as I'm not really hard on it? (I.E. burnouts, clutch dumps, quick shifts)

Thanks again everyone for your input
Good additional info you provided. A few suggestions towards fine tuning:

1. Think hard about doing the 2.8 Kenne Bell if your planning to run big boost. I would talk to American HP or KB about that. Best to have the blower run in middle of it's power band, not the top.

2. Call Rodney at RPM transmissions and discuss a budget for improving your trans/axel and when. He can give you a sense for options and when to pull the trigger. I suspect you will be doing business with him, albeit perhaps 6 months down the line (not an emergency).

3. You may decide to use some of your saving on not buying expensive heads to pay for a good chunk of the new trans? Worth evaluating.

Sounds like your going to have a killer car. Best of luck.
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