I'm planning out my project for my 02 ZO6 for this winter and I need some advice. I'm looking for at least 650+ hp and I want it to have a decent idle and be pretty reliable. This is going to be kinda long, sorry.. Here's what I'm looking at so far:
Livernois stage 2 heads
GM 243 casting
5 axis CNC machined
Fully assembled
220cc Intake Runner
Intake Flow Rate 305 CFM
Exhaust Flow Rate 235 CFM
New 2.000 intake valves / 1.550 exhaust valves
GM valve seals
Super 7 locks
Livernois dual coil valve springs good to ~ .690 lift
Livernois titanium retainers
Livernois stage 2 cam
Intake duration 232 @ .050
Exhaust duration 232 @ .050
Intake lift .595
Exhaust lift .595
JP Performance LS1 / LS6 Double Row Billet Timing Chain Set
Hardened push rods
ARP head bolts
GM head/exhaust gaskets
Halltech cold air
Kooks long tube headers, x-pipe, and hi-flow cats
NGK TR5 spark plugs
Kenne bell 2.6 kit
Lunati forged 383 stroker rotating assembly
McLeod RST Street Twin disc Clutch

So what I'm wondering is what else do I need to do to support these and make it reliable? Also, how do you guys feel about the Livernois head and cam? Are they pretty reputable? Is there another set up for similar money that you would prefer? Same question for the Lunati rotating assembly? I'll be doing all the work myself at my shop other than the prep and assembly of the short block.

Thanks for any advice and sorry again for the long post

Daniel

 

I saw a guy with a good size head/cam package from livernois only put down 38x rwhp on a dynojet with a 6 speed. He wasn't happy at all. Make sure you do your research before you decide on your heads, and make sure you match your combo correctly.

 

I don't care for the super7 locks. They're bulky and heavy. Not good for high revving engines. I would recommend a split duration cam with at least 5 degrees more exhaust ( I prefer more than that). Otherwise, you should easily achieve your goal.

 

I didn't see any FI or nitrous mentioned. Are there a lot of people (if any) making over 650 HP with a stock cube motor and just heads and cam? That sounds like all the mods (performance wise) you plan except the exhaust. Event he stock intake and throttle body. I'd be impressed with over 650HP from that, but I'm probably missing something.

Derrick

 

Look closer... 2.6KB is in there.

 

Yes I'm planning on the 2.6 kenne bell kit and I think I'm going to run around 15 psi. What head and cam package would you guys recommend?

 

Ahhh, there it is. I'm getting old, maybe glasses are in order some day...

Derrick

 

I also agree the cam choice could be better. Something with a 232/238 or 232/240 would make more power than the 232/232 one up there.

 

You should consider AFR, Edelbrock or TFS heads at least for their increased deck thickness. This helps keep the head gaskets intact when running big boost. FWIW though, I am running stock castings ported by Patriot and have not pushed any water yet. 17psi boost. You don't need a "package" you just need a good set of heads and a good cam. As for the cam, it really depends on you desire for a lopey sound, driveability and idle quality. I made considerable more power with a smaller cam with less overlap than a much larger more agressive cam with more overlap. Andy at A&A Corvette sold me a cam of his recommendation. I am quite happy with it. It is everything I asked for.

 

I had Livernois Stage 2 heads on my old 408. Car ran great. But going FI, I'd opt for their next size up heads. And a cam with more exhaust duration. You're gonna cram a lot of air in, but it'll burn a ton of fuel and need more exhaust to get it out.

 

Couple of things that will matter mainly after:

A hood (if you don't already have it)
brakes
good tires
and the ability to manage your right foot.

otherwise your setup is max'd out. I used gm heads and crank and made quite a bit of power...you certainly will not have an issue....except with traction....so get used to it before showing off am taking people for rides.

 

How about these heads and cam:
A&A/Edelbrock Cylinder Heads 245cc Intake
Intake runner volume = 245cc
Exhaust runner volume = 88cc
Combustion chamber volume = 74cc
Test bore = 4.030"

A&A Stage 5 Blower Camshaft, 224-238, 115° LSA
A&A Corvette Performance stage 5 blower camshaft.
Hydraulic Roller
Duration @ 0.050"
Intake 224
Exhaust 238
Valve Lift
Intake .581
Exhaust .605
Lobe Seperation Angle
115°

I'm looking for a decently mild cam and I want the car to idle reasonably well. Is that cam going to be too big? Also, what do I need to upgrade in the drivetrain to support this kind of power? Axle's, driveshaft, trans...? Finally, what kind of upgrades am I going to need for the fuel system? The kenne bell kit comes with new fuel rails, 62# injectors, and a boost-a-pump.. Do I need anything else?

Thanks again for all your help, I really appreciate it

 

You're not running a 4.03" bore.

 

A few thoughts:

1. Heads: They won't make as big a difference on a FI application as for a NA engine. For example, I went with some expensive ET Performance heads for my road race engine (427 warhawk @13/1 compression, 104 octane, NA, @590 rwhp). The heads are critical for this application. On my FI street/track car, I went with cheaper patriot heads. I still made 806 rwhp @15 lbs with 17 degrees of timing. I could have easily made 840+ with a more aggressive tune. I didn't need to spend the money for AFR heads.

2. Cooling: Your doing a very comprehensive job. You might want to consider how your going to keep your three key items cool, particularly if you intend to ever HPDE your car.

a. Intake charge: Meth injection (cheap to install, especially before you tune).

b. Coolant: Ron Davis or Dewitts radiator with a good shroud to force air into the radiator. DON'T get a combined radiator/oil cooler.

c. Oil: Exterior oil cooler (two stage variety if you intend to RR).

These cooling upgrades are cheap if you do it "right the first time" and will add years to your engine if you drive hard.

3. Brakes: Don't buy for bling. After market brakes are expensive. If you decide to add brakes, get something that's at home on the track (you'll spend an extra $1,500 or so, but won't replace the brakes after a couple HPDE's). Stoptech or Brembo GTs! These may not clear your stock wheels, so typically folks do the wheels/tires at the same time. John and CCW is a tremendous recourse for the latter.

Good luck!

 

I used LS6 heads and am only running a 224/224 cam..for which I have used with a Supercharger and two different Twin Turbo kits. If I had to pick a new cam (since it has been 6 years) I would go with a 224/228 or the cam you have listed. Having a little more exhause especially with a Supercharger is good...scavenge it out.

My idle is near stock. My numbers are in sig....@ 9#, 15#s and 18# boost.

 

Although you can always "up the boost" to make more power, I have to disagree on the heads. I used to think that heads don't matter much also on FI. After looking into it and watching the cars that cross my tuner's dyno, it is undeniable that a good set of heads will indeed let you make more power or the same power without taxing the entire system as hard.

 

I thought since I'm going to have the engine out and apart anyway, I might as well do heads. If I run out of money for the project then I might not do heads. What kind of gain would you guess i'm going to get out of them at 15 psi?

I actually was planning on doing a methanol kit.. forgot to list it though

How much do those radiators and oil coolers cost roughly? That's a good idea and something I hadn't thought about yet

Brakes I'm going to be waiting a little while on. I'm not going to be racing it right away so I think I'll be ok. Thanks for the recommendations.

What about the trans and axles?

 

Vodan,

For your application, I would recommend our CNC stage 3 heads and stage 2 cam or have us grind a custom blower cam. The stage 2 cam will make excellent power and retain great driveability. We did a custom grind for George (1BADASVT) and he is very happy with the results.

Which heads and other supporting mods did he have? My personal car, a 99 C5 was one of the first GM cars we installed our heads/cam package on and with our stage 1 heads and stage 1 cam, LT's, Offroad X, CAI, and Z06 catback I made 420 RWHP / 390 RWTQ.

Thank you

Regards,

Rick LeBlanc
Livernois Motorsports

 

I am not 100% sure. The car was dynotuned at Cartek when I was there a few months ago. Their tuner, Julio, said he wasn't too familiar with your heads, but believed it was down on power because it wasn't a good overall setup. I think he said the cam was too big for the heads, or the heads were too big for the cam, one or the other.

 

Shoot just change your heads to AFR225 Your cam to comp 228-234 115 lobe.. ATI D1 Supercharger and you will be making over 780 RWHP No problem