Pulley alignment tutorial
I began taking actual measurements this afternoon between the power steering pulley and bracket and the laser mark and the crank pulley. I could see that the laser mark was 1/2 rib off. I measured the distance between peak to peak on the pulleys and it was .125". Being 1/2 rib off, that made it off by .062. I removed the power steering bracket and kept the hoses connected since I was able to raise it enough to place my removal/install tools on the pulley. I first tried to push the pulley further down and discovered it was bottoming out on the pump housing. I removed the pulley and ground it down with a die grinder bit. I measured the housing and discovered that the raised section in the center had too large of a diameter and was most likely hitting the inside of the pump housings' edge. I ground it flush with the pulley and ground the raised center section down just to make sure it wouldn't bottom out before I achieved proper mounting depth. I have some pics for you guys as well.
Before you begin taking measurements, you must calibrate the laser. If you unscrew the end cap, there are 4 set screws to adjust it. It comes with a cheesy cardboard alignment tool, It will be much more accurate if you perform the alignment the way I did. I used the lines on the level as my guide as to where the laser should hit the square at the other end.
Here's the laser sitting against the level's edge.

Here's the laser firing across the level with the square at the other end.

This is exactly where the laser should hit my square. It is now calibrated.

Here is a laser shot from the alternator to the crank pulley.

Here's a laser shot from the alternator to the power steering pulley.
When the laser is in the center of the rib, it will shine brightly on the rib and have even scatter to the left and right.

Here is a pic of the PS pulley with the laser in the center of the rib.

I used a dial caliper to measure the distance between the pulley edge and the alternator bracket. It was .310. I needed it to be .062" less than that which is .248"

Here is a pic of the PS pulley after grinding and sanding the back side down. I also ground the high spots and the ridge on the power steering pump body to make sure I could achieve the depth I needed.

Pic of the PS pulley installation tool in the middle of installation.

Pic of the laser assembly strapped to the supercharger pulley firing to the idler pulley.

Pic of the laser firing to the PS pulley from the alternator. It's difficult to see in the pics that the laser isn't in the center of the rib.

More to come.......



I am least worried now as Dr. Phil is installing and tuning my forged block and 8 rib setup.



now my question is how do you know that the later is aligned in the center of the pulley its on .
Thanks,
Ed
Last edited by dsmlights; Oct 10, 2008 at 09:34 AM.
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I was surprised at how much the pulley needed grinding. I ground about .090 off the back side of it. Thank god it was aluminum. If it was steel, I would have chucked it up in a lathe or something. I was able to do this at the house.
Also keep in mind that even if you get it perfect with the engine off it does not guarantee that with the engine running with the multitude of dynamics at work that it will be aligned under load and at high RPMs.
Last edited by BLOWNBLUEZ06; Oct 13, 2008 at 12:33 PM.
Thanks. I understand that things get torqued and twisted, but you have to fix what you know is wrong and I believe it is best if everything begins aligned properly. That way if it deviates, it might not do so as far as the alignment was originally off.


















