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For the past 3 days i've been fooling with this thing.
99 c5 p1 with the 2 idler A&A bracket.
well, the belt had 2 ribs shread on me so i decided to replace the belt and to use a shorter one to help with the slippage. i changed everything out and bolted everything up exactly like it was before and the belt started walking on me. i've had the headunit off 5 times within the last 3 days trying different spacers and everything but the belt keeps walking on me. my hands are cut up and bloodied and i'm to the end of my rope.
i'm done for the night with this thing. guess i'll tear it all back down tomorrow.
rant over.......for now.
The laser alignment tools are helpful, but really never as good as a good ol straight edge ruler. I would lay a ruler flat on the crank face and measure up to the PS pump pulley and then up to the alternator. Most belt alignment problems occur in this area. You may have to shim things in or out accordingly with washer or shave the back of the PS pump down like I did with a band saw. I know that sounds crude, but that was where my alignment problem was and the pulley was bottomed out so I needed a little more room so I just shaved it down a little.
The laser alignment tools are helpful, but really never as good as a good ol straight edge ruler. I would lay a ruler flat on the crank face and measure up to the PS pump pulley and then up to the alternator. Most belt alignment problems occur in this area. You may have to shim things in or out accordingly with washer or shave the back of the PS pump down like I did with a band saw. I know that sounds crude, but that was where my alignment problem was and the pulley was bottomed out so I needed a little more room so I just shaved it down a little.
Just kind of curious, why would you have alignment problems from the P/S or alt? Are they not in the stock location?
On the op the only thing that changes is the addition of the blower and bracket isn't it?
BTW, on my P1 the only thing that was off was the lower idler pulley you know the one you have to remove the blower to get at.
well, i'll just keep plugging away. good thing is that i've gotten pretty efficiant at taking the headunit off and putting back on. it's just nerve racking because i can space it the way in which it looks best and it'll make the belt walk even further. the bottom tentioner pulley is starting to get really close to the waterpump. i have noticed that the crank balancer has some movement. is it possible that pinning the crank maybe threw it out of balance?? i'm really contimplating on taking up to bob at epp and letting him look at it.
If you were to actually measure the bracket the ps and alt mount to you would realize that almost all of them are off somewhat from the factory in this area.
Make sure your top radiator spring clip isnt hanging up on the edge of the AA bracket. I had to rotate mine a little to clear the edge of the bracket cause it was catching on it and throwing the alignment off just a hair. Ive never had a belt walk issue with AA cept for that real close area at spring clip and the thermostat ear which has to be ground down.
good find. i already adjusted that. it made it alot easier to put the belt on. i'll check out the alignment of the p.s pulley and alt. pulley tonight. just gets old pulling everything back apart and when you put it back together it is still f***ed up.
Last edited by stangbangin69; Nov 10, 2008 at 12:28 PM.
Make sure the 5 spacers that hold the front bracket to the rear bracket are 2.16"( 6 rib). Then take off the blower and the spring idler pulley-YOU NEED A GATES ALIGNMENT TOOL for this step-put the laser alignment tool on the ribbed fixed idler on the blower bracket and make sure it hits the second rib of the crank pulley. Then put on the blower and make sure the blower pulley lines up with the fixed idler pulley-that side is down. Then go over to the other side and start from the crank and go the power steering.
You can't eyeball it-it has to be perfect. Also check and make sure your waterpump pulley is not coming off and digging into the belt.
Make sure the 5 spacers that hold the front bracket to the rear bracket are 2.16"( 6 rib). Then take off the blower and the spring idler pulley-YOU NEED A GATES ALIGNMENT TOOL for this step-put the laser alignment tool on the ribbed fixed idler on the blower bracket and make sure it hits the second rib of the crank pulley. Then put on the blower and make sure the blower pulley lines up with the fixed idler pulley-that side is down. Then go over to the other side and start from the crank and go the power steering.
You can't eyeball it-it has to be perfect. Also check and make sure your waterpump pulley is not coming off and digging into the belt.
appreciate the info Arun . this is my first FI vehicle so i'm a noob for sure. who has the cheapest price on a Gates Alignment Tool that i could buy? i'm sure this would be one of those tools that'll probably be used a "few" hundred times.
well, i just got home from work and took a look at it. just giving it the ole look over it seems like the alternator is sitting a lil to far towards the firewall. hmmm. don't know if that is making all the difference but you damn well better believe i'm gonna be buying one of those gates tools before to long. thnx to all that posted and helped me out with info.
So has this been a ongoing problem for as long as you have had your FI or did you change a component that a pulley is on recently and then start shredding belts? Take a couple pictures of your head unit different angles/sides mounted up and maybe someone might see something you might be missing.
Last edited by briann510; Nov 10, 2008 at 07:05 PM.
So has this been a ongoing problem for as long as you have had your FI or did you change a component that a pulley is on recently and then start shredding belts? Take a couple pictures of your head unit different angles/sides mounted up and maybe someone might see something you might be missing.
i bought the car a month ago. it already had the p1 installed. drove 1000 miles home. after a few days of being home i noticed that the 2 inner ribs on the serp belt were shreaded off. i decided to change the belt. i put a shorter belt on because i could take the old belt off by hand easily. after i got everything back together, spacers exactly the way they were before, the belt started riding off towards the inside of the fixed, grooved idler. now i've since had the headunit and bracket off more times than i care to mention trying different spacers and such.
i have noticed that with the tighter belt that it feels ALOT stronger than it did before, HP whise. i'm sure belt slip was a major issue. currently it does not have a boost gauge. that is going to change along with the alignment tool.
Last edited by stangbangin69; Nov 10, 2008 at 10:10 PM.
I talked to someone on another Vette forum a week ago and he had a similar problem and came to find out his water pump (he had a 97 or 99) had a gasket replacement done and noticed much thicker gaskets were used as replacments (I think he said .060 thicker) and threw off the alignment as the AA inner bracket that bolts to the pass side of pump was that much off. He said once changed everything was fine after that.
Last edited by briann510; Nov 10, 2008 at 08:34 PM.
I talked to someone on another Vette forum a week ago and he had a similar problem and came to find out his water pump (he had a 97 or 99) had a gasket replacement done and noticed much thicker gaskets were used as replacments (I think he said .060 thicker) and threw off the alignment as the AA inner bracket that bolts to the pass side of pump was that much off. He said once changed everything was fine after that.
looks like the w. pump is stock but who knows. the truth will come out once i get the alignment tool.
I had an issue like this with my belt setup, and I ended up altering the tensioner spacing on the A&A bracket that I bought used. It worked for me. Was also ruining the belts, 2 ribs at a time.
I had an issue like this with my belt setup, and I ended up altering the tensioner spacing on the A&A bracket that I bought used. It worked for me. Was also ruining the belts, 2 ribs at a time.
i've looked at the tensioner pulley and i can't space it out anymore towards the engine. it is VERY VERY close to the w. pump as it is. how far did you have to space urs?
i've looked at the tensioner pulley and i can't space it out anymore towards the engine. it is VERY VERY close to the w. pump as it is. how far did you have to space urs?
I think about 1 washer width,...maybe an 1/8th, if that of an inch. I feel your frustrations dude, big time. I got so frustrated, I ditched the setup BUT,...in the end, I did get everything to work properly, and held nicely, and the belt stayed, with no issues anymore. Then my idler pulley broke off the bracket(alternator)....thats when I gave up.