Hey guys i just bought the NOS kit for the LS1 motor, i plan on only running the 100 shot because i feel like the car is plenty fast i just wanted it in case i run across some fast vipers that need a little ego crushing. Where is the best place to instal the mircoswitch in a 2000 FRC?

 

Microswitch as in Window switch? Most people put it either in the battery compartment or the glove box. I choose the battery compartment

 

kind of a newbie here, the mirco switch i was speaking of was the one that i thought attached to the throttle somwhere to open the solinoid when the throttle is wide open. What is a window switch, i just got the NOS set-up last night and only opened the instructions, but they didnt explain the set up very well.

 

we use TPS voltage based or RPM based switches on the Vettes since they're drive by wire. You can remove the gas pedal assembly and rig it up on there if you want to use it, but that's the only mechanical piece you've got to work with for an actual microswitch that I can think of.

 

I suppose that switch didnt come with my kit, i guess i give NOS a call and see whatr they offer for me.

 

I would highly recommend you contact one of the two if not both of the guys that responded to this thread. They are really good with nitrous and will even help you after the sale.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...6-nitrous.html

Just PM them.

 

You're going to need a bit more juice than a 100 shot on a LS1 to beat a viper.

If you're set on using the micro switch, put it under the pedal. Mounts easy. Use it on the ground side of your wiring so that you can loop one leg to the mounting screw.

 

Yep, under the pedal like this. http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-f...ot-switch.html

 

Myself, I like the simplicity of the micro SW under the pedal. it's cleaner looking and trouble free. On my website in the wiring section, or one of the sections is a grouping of WOT sws mounted under the pedals for C5s, C6s, F-bodies and GTOs, check it out. if your NOS kit is the one I am thinking about I have some additional info on it also on my site. If you need anything at all, and/or have questions PM me as i would be glad to help if I can.
Robert

 

In addition to a base kit, your going to need the supporting mods and a working knowledge of what your planning on using for a power adder.

Supporting mods include a window switch (most instruction sets will say not to spray below 3000 RPM) a window switch is what you need to do this consistantly and safely. Many of these have the TPS/WOT built in (Same thing).

Bottle heater is needed because bottle pressure is how your going to keep a safe Air Fuel Ratio. Most systems are based on 950 to 1000 PSI. It is critical that keep the bottle in this range when spraying (when using the recommended jetting). If you have say 1100-1150 PSI you will likely be lean, if your below 950 you will probably be rich (rich is safer than lean). To get consistant and best results a bottle heater (or a more expensive NANO or push system) is needed.

To supliment the Heater a purge is used to bleed bottle pressure off if it is to high (hot climate), as well as clear the air out of the line prior to use of the system.

A TPS Switch/Mirco Switch/WOT Switch is a part of the safety system to ensure the system does not spray unless you want it to. I prefer the built in Switches that come with most of the "Window Switches". It ties into the blue TPS wire at the throttle body.

Most properly installed systems require three things for the system to function:
1) System armed (usually a rocker or toggle switch included with the kit).
2) If the system is armed, then the WOT/TPS/Micro Switch when put to Wide Open Throttle will allow the window switch to be enabled.
3) If 1 and 2 are met, then when the engine reaches the RPM of the Window Switch the system will fire.

Keep in mind Colder plugs are needed most use TR6's gapped at .035
100 shot generally is ok on a stock tune.

An opener is nice to have, especially for those random street encounters when your bottle is installed where you cannot reach it to open...

And the coolest accessory of them all is a Beer panel (shameless plug) Thats just because it allows you to install the switches with a factory looking panel where your ashtray is...

If you do not have the supporting components, or have any questions give Harris Speed Works (they are a Forum Sponsor) and get their input/advise/explaination. They are great guys and answered my questions when I was shopping for and setting up my system. If you are looking for a NOS dealer then PM me, the one I have in mind is not a sponsor.

Robert and I are more than willing to help through PM's, as well as most of the guys that have already posted in this thread.

Hot Rod had a good write up on an install the Vette Doctors did
http://www.hotrod.com/howto/3447_che...all/index.html this was some help to me when I installed my system showed some "good" how to.

Jim

 

Well Said Jim

 

While I agree these are nice comonents to have with a nitrous system, you don't need them. If the guy just wants an extra 100hp with NOS, it can be done very simple and cheap.

I ran the NOS LS1 dry kit at 100hp. Had lots of fun and good results, getting an easy 1 sec ET and 10mph. Probably the best bang for buck anywhere for under $400 (used kit).

microswitch under pedal
no window switch
no heater
no purge
no opener
stock plugs
stock tune