TTiX No Boost
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
TTiX No Boost
I ran the car yesterday in the good cool air and it pulled like an animal in the morning
going home the car felt "flat" and sure enough, no boost
I'm suspecting it might have popped off a hose on the pressure side or a turbo has gone south.
I'll dig into it this weekend.
also when the brakes got hot they shuddered really bad, must have warped rotors or a bad caliper (grrr....)
May has not been good, last week a lady sideswiped my LPE ZR-1 and did quite a bit of damage.
sheesh!!
going home the car felt "flat" and sure enough, no boost
I'm suspecting it might have popped off a hose on the pressure side or a turbo has gone south.
I'll dig into it this weekend.
also when the brakes got hot they shuddered really bad, must have warped rotors or a bad caliper (grrr....)
May has not been good, last week a lady sideswiped my LPE ZR-1 and did quite a bit of damage.
sheesh!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 0
From: Houston TX
DAMN!!!!
That sucks man. How bad is the ZR-1?
Keep us informed on the boost situation. Are you using T-bolt clamps or worm drive? If worm drive, you can get a better seal and more clamping force using T-bolt clamps. They are fairly cheap depending where you shop to get them. Ive been through quite a few diferent size ranges while building my twin setup. If you need info on good plavces to get them send me a PM. They are not a sponsor and I dont want to step on any toes.
Jerry
That sucks man. How bad is the ZR-1?
Keep us informed on the boost situation. Are you using T-bolt clamps or worm drive? If worm drive, you can get a better seal and more clamping force using T-bolt clamps. They are fairly cheap depending where you shop to get them. Ive been through quite a few diferent size ranges while building my twin setup. If you need info on good plavces to get them send me a PM. They are not a sponsor and I dont want to step on any toes.
Jerry
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
the ZR-1 is hit hard on the pass side door, with damage to the gill panel, hood, rocker, and rear quarter. I'll know very soon just how bad is bad. but the frame looks ok, so a new door and some solid work and she'll be good as new.
meantime, I need to get the Z06 TT going well. the brakes acted really funny too. I put some used wilwood superlights on with 14" rotors
when the brakes got warmed up, at speeds around 70 the front end was shaking pretty bad. my bet is that the used rotors are a bit warped. I don't feel it at low speeds. time to check the calipers too.
I'm thinking I can use some old worn out pads and have someone pump the pedal to be sure all the pistons come out even.
they did seem sticky to me from sitting, so maybe the calipers need a rebuild.
it's enough to make you buy a toyota (NOT!!!)
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 2
From: Valrico Florida
This happened to me on my Supra. Did a quick visual and I had two lines off. Connection to the boost controller and line going to anti-surge on the turbo had a huge hole in it. It was a easy fix.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
she looks fine in it too! actually I wish my wife WOULD drive the turbo. it's an automatic, and once she stands on it she would understand
but to most gals cars are transportation, not obsessionshe sorta gets it and tolerates me in a BIG way which is the important thing.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
found the problem, the silicone coupler popped off the drivers side turbo compressor outlet. man it's tight up there! I can hardly see it much less get to it. any tips on how to get this back together?
I can reach up there and get my hand on the tube, but the compressor outlet is really close to the frame and it's very tough to guide everything.
I'm going to take apart the tubes forward of that to make it easier to manuver around. I need a kid with a hand 1/4 inch wide!
any tips are appreciated.
I can reach up there and get my hand on the tube, but the compressor outlet is really close to the frame and it's very tough to guide everything.
I'm going to take apart the tubes forward of that to make it easier to manuver around. I need a kid with a hand 1/4 inch wide!
any tips are appreciated.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 2
From: Valrico Florida
I have been there.. If this is where yours came off it is strange you showed no boost. My car still made the spring. Took a while to get there, but it made it.. LOL!! It's a pita to put back on. I pulled off the pipes in front of it and had to tackle it from the bottom. My hands are just too big to do it from the top. I had to move a bunch of stuff out of the way unfortunately.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
my coupler doesn't look bad, it just popped off.
I have a lift and am going in from the bottom, but do I need to take anything apart other than the "plumbing" going to the intercooler??
looks very tough to get to. I want to clean it up a bit while I'm at it.
need an alien with long arms and small hands!
I have a lift and am going in from the bottom, but do I need to take anything apart other than the "plumbing" going to the intercooler??
looks very tough to get to. I want to clean it up a bit while I'm at it.
need an alien with long arms and small hands!
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 2
From: Valrico Florida
I dont remember exactly mine needed replacing over a year ago. I just remember I kept trying to put my hand up there and having to remove things like the WG, etc.. I also had my LC1 up there wrapped in heat wrap. I relocated the LC1. Find a friend with small hands if you can. They might be able to get it from the top.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 4,326
Likes: 140
From: Weatherford, TX
Shouldn't need to undo much stuff, unless you need wiggle room. It might help to pull the wheel. If it's real tight to reconnect, you could unbolt the motor mounts underneath (2 x 18mm's), and pry the motor over a bit, so you can slip the coupler on.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 3,706
Likes: 2
From: Valrico Florida
I took my wheel off for more of a visual and for more light. The second time mine slipped off I did lift the motor up a little...
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 10,230
Likes: 885
From: Alexandria, Virginia, USA VA
got the coupler back on. it had worn a bit and is RIGHT against the frame! almost no room to get up in there.
hopefully it will hold. seems like the frame needs to be notched a bit
there just isn't much clearance at all and I can see where the coupler was wearing a bit. looks like a 2.5 silicone hose, if it was just a bit thinner it would work OK.
this car is needing some "pipes" soon. the other piple forward has scraped the ground and doesn't look like it was installed correctly.
not the fault of TTiX, just some sloppy work.
hopefully it will hold. seems like the frame needs to be notched a bit
there just isn't much clearance at all and I can see where the coupler was wearing a bit. looks like a 2.5 silicone hose, if it was just a bit thinner it would work OK.
this car is needing some "pipes" soon. the other piple forward has scraped the ground and doesn't look like it was installed correctly.
not the fault of TTiX, just some sloppy work.