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spec Stage 1?????

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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 09:07 PM
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Default spec Stage 1?????

Will the spec Stage 1 hold FI on the street with street tires?

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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by z06sicz
Will the spec Stage 1 hold FI on the street with street tires?

If its already in your car, run it till it gives up...

If your considering upgrading to this, loose that thought and dont buy anything less then a 3+.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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The 3+ is an over weight, unbalanced POS! I ran it for a year and it totally screwed my tranny. How much power are you gonna be making? I am running close to 650 ft lbs to the wheels on a 150 shot. I have made several 4000+ launches on full slicks and my Spec 3 has not blinked yet. Dont get the 3+!!

Also... look into a Tick Master cylinder when you do the clutch. You will need the adjustment or else the clutch will disengage on the floor. The Tick master also flows more fluid so you can bet you wont be missing any shifts after the install.

Last edited by JDaniel; Jan 22, 2010 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 10:33 PM
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When you say overweight you mean the disk right? They are kind of heavy plus the torque tube also loads the syncros with the disk in a vette.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by slow ride
When you say overweight you mean the disk right? They are kind of heavy plus the torque tube also loads the syncros with the disk in a vette.
I don't know anything about the SPEC 3 +

However, how does the torque tube load the synchro's ? The inner shaft on the torque tube is fixed and does not have any front or rear movement.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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I have about 500 tq to the rear wheels, and it "says it will handle 599". I just wondering if they rated them correctly? I have the stocker in yet, but it's on borrowed time.

I had a spec stage 3 in my ta and it performed great, but was aggressive on engagement. I want to get a clutch that drives like stock but can hold the power. Also I'm not willing to drop over a grand for a clutch.

I was looking at the spec 1 or 2 with an alum flywheel. The car is 99% street driven.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ajg1915
I don't know anything about the SPEC 3 +

However, how does the torque tube load the synchro's ? The inner shaft on the torque tube is fixed and does not have any front or rear movement.
the synchro's have to get the shaft inside the torque tube/clutch disk moving to whatever speed is needed for you to change into whatever gear you're going into.. not complicated. and more weight is indeed more load on them
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
the synchro's have to get the shaft inside the torque tube/clutch disk moving to whatever speed is needed for you to change into whatever gear you're going into.. not complicated. and more weight is indeed more load on them
I understand that. I just don't see how the weight of the clutch has anything to do with the loading since only the clutch disc is attached to the transmission via the torque tube spline.

The flywheel and pressure plate spin off the crank.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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No crap. They said the weight of the DISK, not the rest of the clutch.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by z06sicz
I have about 500 tq to the rear wheels, and it "says it will handle 599". I just wondering if they rated them correctly? I have the stocker in yet, but it's on borrowed time.

I had a spec stage 3 in my ta and it performed great, but was aggressive on engagement. I want to get a clutch that drives like stock but can hold the power. Also I'm not willing to drop over a grand for a clutch.

I was looking at the spec 1 or 2 with an alum flywheel. The car is 99% street driven.
Aluminum flywheels are best for road racing. A steel or iron flywheel are best for the street and drag racing. The weight of the heavier wheel keep the inertia of motor spinning faster once you get going.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by schpenxel
No crap. They said the weight of the DISK, not the rest of the clutch.
Geez maybe you need a chill pill, the clutch would imply the whole assembly not the disc.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 06:07 PM
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The pressure plates are all about the same weight on a single disk clutch unless it's made of aluminum. Generally wing style puck disks are lighter than full face. Spec 3+ is full face, but metalic which seems heavier than organic. The lightest single would be a wing/puck setup with a solid hub, but I don't like solid hub disks on the street.

Other cars are not burdened with a driveshaft in front of the transmission like a vette. I have a 3+ in my car and it's ok, but fast shifting isn't the best which may be due to the clutch releasing low to the floor though. I'm going to try a tick master to get the clutch up so I know it is fully disengauging when I try to shift fast.

Last edited by slow ride; Jan 23, 2010 at 06:10 PM.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 07:52 PM
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So the stage 1 or 2 won't hold?? I guess it's back the the stage 3 and harsh engagement???
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by slow ride
The pressure plates are all about the same weight on a single disk clutch unless it's made of aluminum. Generally wing style puck disks are lighter than full face. Spec 3+ is full face, but metalic which seems heavier than organic. The lightest single would be a wing/puck setup with a solid hub, but I don't like solid hub disks on the street.

Other cars are not burdened with a driveshaft in front of the transmission like a vette. I have a 3+ in my car and it's ok, but fast shifting isn't the best which may be due to the clutch releasing low to the floor though. I'm going to try a tick master to get the clutch up so I know it is fully disengauging when I try to shift fast.
As long as your slave is bled well and shimmed correctly, once you install the adjustable master it will shift flawlessly. Ive experienced a 3+ with factory hydraulics and a shotty slave, its no good. Somtimes it wouldnt even s hift into gears.
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Old Jan 23, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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It's not as bad as your experiance, but could be better. The clutch release point is actually higher than the tex I took out before it. I have a new slave, remote bleeder, but no shim. The shim debate has been beaten to death, but I just need a touch more travel and it should be in the sweet spot.

I'd think the single disk ACT would be good on the street. It holds 700+ ft lbs and is organic so it should be smooth, but I'm sure it has a little more pressure plate to make the organic disk hold. I have used ACT clutches in other cars, but not a vette so my experiance with them is not directly related. People seem to love the new ACT twin disk clutches for LS1's though.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 08:13 PM
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I wouldn't waste time with a stage 1 or 2. Ya it might hold but it won't last long.

I'd run a Monster stage 3.They seam alot smoother than the Spec 3.
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Old Jan 24, 2010 | 09:20 PM
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I guess its all in ones opinion but I think the Spec 3 is a very smooth engaging clutch and is very streetable. The pedal does get a bit heavier and once you install the Tick Master it will get a bit more heavier but nothing thats an issue.
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To spec Stage 1?????

Old Jan 24, 2010 | 10:17 PM
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It's hit or miss. If it's not broken in it will be a little rough since the high spots take all the pressure plate load. If the pads are making full contact it shouldn't be that bad. From what I've see the pads on these puck disks are pretty much the same material so they shouldn't be that much different.
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
I wouldn't waste time with a stage 1 or 2. Ya it might hold but it won't last long.

I'd run a Monster stage 3.They seam alot smoother than the Spec 3.
Thanks for the info hawk

I remember you from ls1tech back in the day!

Any suggestions while I'm "in there"

New master?
throw out bearing?
etc?????
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Old Jan 26, 2010 | 08:05 PM
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At a minimum a new slave, a remote bleeder is a good idea aswell.
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